tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-77141669321523479462024-03-14T00:49:01.917-07:00Sew Old - Sew Newyarndivahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10132680063667909853noreply@blogger.comBlogger34125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7714166932152347946.post-35786225278246753662020-04-13T12:59:00.001-07:002020-04-14T08:27:31.768-07:00Make a Simple Patch<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZIdiWTJLbhqqojEg2-VxoTCeXqo6ab38iCfGNSzRbI6jRGBs8QvQFEkaLsL8byNWBeGRVIMaeIfwi_QcY-ZHFHxLl-nSub8HF0LEwCmGKew4-AhW5UeFfe1SvftrIfpXfI21wbcQb7Tgu/s1600/IMG_0013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1195" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZIdiWTJLbhqqojEg2-VxoTCeXqo6ab38iCfGNSzRbI6jRGBs8QvQFEkaLsL8byNWBeGRVIMaeIfwi_QcY-ZHFHxLl-nSub8HF0LEwCmGKew4-AhW5UeFfe1SvftrIfpXfI21wbcQb7Tgu/s640/IMG_0013.jpg" width="478" /></a></div>
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<h2>
Fix Those Well Worn Jeans.</h2>
<div>
There are a lot of ways to fix clothing and even what I am showing here has many variations. I get asked many times how to patch clothing so I am writing this one down as it is also how other things are patched such as jeans knees and jacket elbows. This particular repair is really common and not hard to do so a perfect first sewing machine repair.</div>
<h4>
Choose your method.</h4>
<div>
There are two major ways to fix this type of tear. One is darning and the other is patch.</div>
<div>
1. Darning: Repair through thread alone. Zig zag or back and forth stitching over the tear. This type good for smaller holes. Can be done discreetly. Not good for large holes or areas of lots of stress like knees.</div>
<div>
2. Patching: Covering the area of damage with other fabric. It has the benefit of being strong for places with stress. It can be tricky to do and is visible.</div>
<div>
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<div>
<i>There are variations to these, like what I can an underside patch, but that is for another time. For simplicity those topics are left out but remember there is a whole world of creativity here!</i><br />
<i><br /></i></div>
<h4>
Choose Your Materials for the Fix.</h4>
<div>
For machine darning use a matching thread for a less visible mend. Use a a completely different one for a highly visible repair. For my example, it is a close match. </div>
<div>
<br />
For patching, choose a fabric for patching that is of similar weight to your garment for good wear. Especially important with knit fabric. In the example shown here, the fabric being repaired is jeans denim so a heavy cotton was chosen. It is not the same color but is the same weight. If you go too light with fabric, the patch itself will not survive much wear and tear from use. </div>
<div>
<b><br /></b></div>
<div>
<b>Keep in mind if a repair was needed, the area is likely to see some rough use. Make your repair just as strong. </b></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqSh3jndDGw1mAwfckreYIOCIxkqmD83iOR42jh6zYgwS1NNKyj92hpt4JDxtEp4TnD6ceBpUw146F3tnJeLtsKsKtYaPYW-lIMhQfmz1X2yZLYBbfdK9aHTEv1uZgg6L6jBgK2y4rm48W/s1600/IMG_0002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1195" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqSh3jndDGw1mAwfckreYIOCIxkqmD83iOR42jh6zYgwS1NNKyj92hpt4JDxtEp4TnD6ceBpUw146F3tnJeLtsKsKtYaPYW-lIMhQfmz1X2yZLYBbfdK9aHTEv1uZgg6L6jBgK2y4rm48W/s400/IMG_0002.jpg" width="298" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Prep Work Being Done</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h4>
<br />Prepare Your Work.</h4>
<div>
It can be scary but you will nearly always have to do some deconstruction to do a good repair. Here I am removing the pockets a bit to access the area below so it can be given new fabric. </div>
<div>
Some general rules from Anne's lesson learning from many mistakes over the years:</div>
<div>
1. Give yourself enough room to work. </div>
<div>
2. (a caveat to #1) Don't do too much. When in doubt Don't.</div>
<div>
3. Take time and go slow. Making more damage when taking apart is easy to do. Use a sharp seam ripper or X-Acto knife.</div>
<div>
4. If the garment is complex take a photo or two of the work before it all comes apart.</div>
<div>
5. Remember to use the right weight needle for the fabric you are working with.</div>
<div>
6. Remember "Do no harm" in repairs as well as medicine. If your repair idea damages forever the garment then don't do it. Repair it another way.</div>
<h3>
Fixing the Levis.</h3>
<div>
Get ready:</div>
<div>
Get some heavy cotton.</div>
<div>
Get some thread in colors you need.</div>
<div>
Get a size 110 Needle.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Lift the corners of the pockets using a seam ripper. Go down past the hole about 1". This is easily sewn back together.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
We have two holes to fix. One if large and the other small. To fix, I will do one machine darn and one patch. That means we need 3 patches. Two will be placed on the inside of both pockets and the outside of one. Patching the inside makes a strong and comfortable repair. It provides a stable foundation to do machine darning on the small hole. It can be omitted but that is another subject all together.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
1. Make 2 inside patches to match holes. The need to be slightly larger than the holes.<br />
2. Make one outside patch. The shape is determined by how you want it to look. I made it bigger so as to go to the top seam. Choose the look you want and then make the patch that shape. Trace with chalk and cut to form. plus 1/2" for large patches or 1/4" on small patches all around to turn under.</div>
<div>
2. Finish the edges. Zig zag or serge is best. Less but also OK is pinking or single row of stitching. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc81sLzm_F6Vf4uupv5Fd1xPxyhyphenhyphenYIBOtylGHCOF9fy1ta_nrzXF4Cc2z5g7wqWp1uip3PwJGGz32w54hrZg3PVM7zNTMAPMfYS1Nfd3lXkdtwtf9NxCKSAvyBuKTk-pBicaqJ-9uIzl5S/s1600/IMG_0003.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1195" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc81sLzm_F6Vf4uupv5Fd1xPxyhyphenhyphenYIBOtylGHCOF9fy1ta_nrzXF4Cc2z5g7wqWp1uip3PwJGGz32w54hrZg3PVM7zNTMAPMfYS1Nfd3lXkdtwtf9NxCKSAvyBuKTk-pBicaqJ-9uIzl5S/s400/IMG_0003.jpg" width="298" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Three patches needed- Two for inside and one for outside.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<b>Sew Patches to Inside.</b></div>
<div>
Line up patch and pin.</div>
<div>
Make sure bobbin thread matches the fabric. </div>
<div>
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrb-E5WBLCtphYLyu6e8bo9U43bH-aRYf_p126-EhB7uLg730QwZ49eGDsrex3vCkqva_EoDAmaGzg1rokI-Vf1lGKPHCg8AwEzeExK_uq9j3HszGqFMkPdZbQjFJVwrsDbq9NnmD8Cnrg/s1600/IMG_0004.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1195" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrb-E5WBLCtphYLyu6e8bo9U43bH-aRYf_p126-EhB7uLg730QwZ49eGDsrex3vCkqva_EoDAmaGzg1rokI-Vf1lGKPHCg8AwEzeExK_uq9j3HszGqFMkPdZbQjFJVwrsDbq9NnmD8Cnrg/s400/IMG_0004.jpg" width="298" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Setting the location. Make sure to cover the entire hole.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
This is the view from the outside when sewn down.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7-frwlTskteyi-xZbTOYPNh1PXyKVrUOz-MJcsGIb4VlCZuYL-UooPKIpUzLYPGKzVsAVvfmlFrjemM-NEGsy0akCdgkmYGuEH0tGA0nPaJ9PTCP-FhOsAb2rhsQl6PJ1mZcjJZouQ1Vo/s1600/IMG_0005.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1195" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7-frwlTskteyi-xZbTOYPNh1PXyKVrUOz-MJcsGIb4VlCZuYL-UooPKIpUzLYPGKzVsAVvfmlFrjemM-NEGsy0akCdgkmYGuEH0tGA0nPaJ9PTCP-FhOsAb2rhsQl6PJ1mZcjJZouQ1Vo/s400/IMG_0005.jpg" width="298" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Outside view.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h4 style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br />Patching the Outside.</h4>
<div>
This patch was made so as to go to the top seam. </div>
<div>
If possible, use an iron to press seam allowance under. Usually the amount is about 1/4 or 1/2". Not needed but sure makes a neat edge. That is what is happening here.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKKkONxK3p45xXAni9I3WO2yO6oa-Sgo90DyT_NOHXEcAnyRyq4LNgrUJ7gTyNL975XV1y5N75wt8XfDt-RLUgxIOwzGP_YHcfRtafTE5JfV2eAuDHYk2HY6jcvSv7FB9U_tZ4Ic8KrEns/s1600/IMG_0006.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1195" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKKkONxK3p45xXAni9I3WO2yO6oa-Sgo90DyT_NOHXEcAnyRyq4LNgrUJ7gTyNL975XV1y5N75wt8XfDt-RLUgxIOwzGP_YHcfRtafTE5JfV2eAuDHYk2HY6jcvSv7FB9U_tZ4Ic8KrEns/s400/IMG_0006.jpg" width="298" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pressing under a 1/4" seam allowance.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Stitch in place.</div>
<div>
Stitched need to be small enough to be strong but not to small as to pucker up. For heavy fabrics like this I use a #3. Stitches are made very close to the edge but not on it.</div>
<div>
Stitch again inside for added stability. 1/4" is good generally on a small patch like this. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
For large patches it is good to stitch the center area as well to keep it all in place. Some decorative flair is good here. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8xdME0L9hMFn9GnKEDLlJ_Ml88pjJY1KzuYaSCiHbTzs7_OztvZptqcKA228OGHNJn0hpij3b35LNOjghnuddqvPB5IkG5X81eBrZImfCbs4uqzW1CGxGmaknHnAoCQw0fwiUJrvzAvGN/s1600/IMG_0008.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1195" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8xdME0L9hMFn9GnKEDLlJ_Ml88pjJY1KzuYaSCiHbTzs7_OztvZptqcKA228OGHNJn0hpij3b35LNOjghnuddqvPB5IkG5X81eBrZImfCbs4uqzW1CGxGmaknHnAoCQw0fwiUJrvzAvGN/s400/IMG_0008.jpg" width="298" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The fun part, stitching it down.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<b><br /></b></div>
<h4>
Machine Darn.</h4>
<div>
Machine stitching the hole closed is done by simply moving the presser foot back and forth over the holeThat can be done different ways depending on the machine. My favorite is using a 3 step zig zag built in stitch. My machine here is great with heavy weight denim but has no built in stitches nor even reverse direction. To achieve the back and forth I lift the presser foot slightly to pull it back. </div>
<div>
Most machines you can just go forward and reverse closely together or use a close zig zag stitch.</div>
<h4>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyNSJgM0oPu0C9JGdEriaKqFwQUmo9nTCEizJbuNUOx2GNdqBH-Svu0qY49JHHqLPv-OIgalzswHwoIzhiWkalqJMmhBo8gPxemg22uCoKdvQ19111DxNnOsMsUNEBWHRyBZvqUX-zPNhb/s1600/IMG_0010.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1195" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyNSJgM0oPu0C9JGdEriaKqFwQUmo9nTCEizJbuNUOx2GNdqBH-Svu0qY49JHHqLPv-OIgalzswHwoIzhiWkalqJMmhBo8gPxemg22uCoKdvQ19111DxNnOsMsUNEBWHRyBZvqUX-zPNhb/s320/IMG_0010.jpg" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Machine Darning with Ol'Willcox and Gibbs</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-weight: normal;"><br />The stitching can be seem better form the inside, as shown here.</span></div>
</h4>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgta4WR3PijVnXd4CKZnhZN8rd843tO-httX-4tM2XIcDhpw1FvJDPjXTPpraHnaVpXGEygkUK3vwifqQKjXvE1hJfAfWgwsWYr4tpH96ZD9IyATnKFyOcLE9ZbrJriQoBDpknaptRMPIZ7/s1600/IMG_0012.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1195" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgta4WR3PijVnXd4CKZnhZN8rd843tO-httX-4tM2XIcDhpw1FvJDPjXTPpraHnaVpXGEygkUK3vwifqQKjXvE1hJfAfWgwsWYr4tpH96ZD9IyATnKFyOcLE9ZbrJriQoBDpknaptRMPIZ7/s320/IMG_0012.jpg" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside view.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<h4 style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Finish It Up.</h4>
<div>
Sew up those pockets. A nice touch is to use matching jeans topstitch thread for the last part. Not difficult to find and useful for projects like these. It is heavier than everyday thread. Normally I use it for top thread only and match use normal weight in the bobbin. Bobbin tension needs to be adjusted if heavy thread is used.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilBEc7I-Ef-YerfjIoyKMFdqLEt7j22bpqiF_fJWYRKua1bKsmz-NXu89aHx4X65bzrplYfqIQt8wLZ5zbqUEL7tGlVq6yx3SQx9_4VAmgG6gz7_h13BWRtfOoC9xrkUF4mxCtwxamqvq6/s1600/IMG_0011.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1195" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilBEc7I-Ef-YerfjIoyKMFdqLEt7j22bpqiF_fJWYRKua1bKsmz-NXu89aHx4X65bzrplYfqIQt8wLZ5zbqUEL7tGlVq6yx3SQx9_4VAmgG6gz7_h13BWRtfOoC9xrkUF4mxCtwxamqvq6/s320/IMG_0011.jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
<div>
, </div>
<h4>
Done!</h4>
yarndivahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10132680063667909853noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7714166932152347946.post-42107758264398189712020-04-08T12:32:00.002-07:002020-05-08T08:51:00.677-07:00Retro Fit Pocket<h2 style="text-align: center;">
</h2>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyXE1gJoDR_D9yASgdR8UT-jdOydpY3dzPNvY6e2C3k6arEGZR790f2ANdm_PewA1B2zmjCjTykkUkrdcWpz2QxrR063BNu7geDH81nn0zsHQBEiVxbPM70SJOEzq4RqU9xyDF08Ghr9_o/s1600/IMG_0023.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyXE1gJoDR_D9yASgdR8UT-jdOydpY3dzPNvY6e2C3k6arEGZR790f2ANdm_PewA1B2zmjCjTykkUkrdcWpz2QxrR063BNu7geDH81nn0zsHQBEiVxbPM70SJOEzq4RqU9xyDF08Ghr9_o/s640/IMG_0023.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<div>
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<div>
If your dress or top does not have a pocket, you can often add one yourself. This is how I add a pocket to an already constructed garment into a side seam. It looks long and complex but it is not really. I made one pocket here but you can do two, of course. With vintage garments I try to alter them as little as possible and so one is usually my choice. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
You will need a little sewing experience, a few pins, some marking chalk or marker and some fabric to make the pocket from. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
To choose fabric, it is best to match weight and then color. Use an exact matching fabric or one lighter in weight. You can cut your fabric off grain if you need to. The amount is basically slightly bigger than your hand times two. Don't try to make it too small.<br />
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Pre wash fabric to avoid shrinking afterwards!<br />
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<h3>
Make Your Pocket Template</h3>
You can take a pocket from a commerical pattern to do this or you cna make your own. To do this yourself, just trace your own hand for size. If you make one from paper, you can bet it will get used again and again.<br />
<br />
Set two layers of fabric out, as shown and do some drawing. Open your fingers slightly and then trace about 1-2" all around as of you were setting your hand inside the pocket. The strait edge is at the wrist. You want to be adding some room for a seam allowance and ease. <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkXPDYsqcGXvWc-gflT137vthsaYiAyjlvhSOqGlCHOtL2ggErMOHkTdZy_ul1vRxWuqYcnOJx55zsxjLRawsMQy_Tl-kf3_2RyYBt3GmqqeoPbLUs1HgPWvbRtuYP8Xo1I8zsRyB-NH6p/s1600/IMG_0001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkXPDYsqcGXvWc-gflT137vthsaYiAyjlvhSOqGlCHOtL2ggErMOHkTdZy_ul1vRxWuqYcnOJx55zsxjLRawsMQy_Tl-kf3_2RyYBt3GmqqeoPbLUs1HgPWvbRtuYP8Xo1I8zsRyB-NH6p/s320/IMG_0001.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Make your pocket shape.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h3>
Getting Ready </h3>
<h4>
Cutting and Finishing the Pocket Bag</h4>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrgCU9Lj4FviKUdj6-sFxPfB691C5XSji8nQ23a3X_Q0Eg76unMHQ0gfxYUTgSGGF7iRUg7HoZfa8hyUEdfN_1D4zTtpgE-bVYGReY1c1oKEnsPmG-GAU7b8bgLuqtU85t_VsM_grhG2W6/s1600/IMG_0002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrgCU9Lj4FviKUdj6-sFxPfB691C5XSji8nQ23a3X_Q0Eg76unMHQ0gfxYUTgSGGF7iRUg7HoZfa8hyUEdfN_1D4zTtpgE-bVYGReY1c1oKEnsPmG-GAU7b8bgLuqtU85t_VsM_grhG2W6/s320/IMG_0002.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finish edges</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
Cut out your pocket bag pieces. The edges for the pocket bags need to be finished by either serging, pinked or zig zag stitching on your machine. Don't sew them together yet. </div>
<h4>
Choosing a Spot For Your Pocket</h4>
<div>
Note: Where to put the pocket takes a little planning. Often garments do not have pockets because of fit. There is usually not room for one in the usual location. Because of this it may be good to move it slightly lower on the garment. Not always the case, but a test may be needed to see where. I place a pin in the spot most comfortable and also where a pocket can fit in a loose area. </div>
<div>
The pin is going to be in the spot where your wrist goes. It is the center opening of the pocket.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaLlqRY9N0gzBq-nH9Gjm9V8rfRobjppedAQ5ieJQka8igfo2JyXv2XQ7iwnGPp9G9FCunGBUL6ZQTx29TW2S9lQqhMqOn0MarlWMyWi8Qc83CLs0MmoInigghTablD9zm-N9moI7EBb2t/s1600/IMG_0003.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1202" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaLlqRY9N0gzBq-nH9Gjm9V8rfRobjppedAQ5ieJQka8igfo2JyXv2XQ7iwnGPp9G9FCunGBUL6ZQTx29TW2S9lQqhMqOn0MarlWMyWi8Qc83CLs0MmoInigghTablD9zm-N9moI7EBb2t/s320/IMG_0003.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Choose a comfortable spot for your pocket</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<h4>
Opening the Seam.</h4>
<div>
Open the seam with a seam ripper for the length of your cut pocket peices plus 2" on either end. With this dress the seams were pinked only but if yours are served or finished in another way it will have to be undone so a little more work. That also means the seams need to be zig zagged finished again before the pocket is sewn to keep everything neat. I suggest opening seam then zig zag the two separate seam allowances at this point so as not to forget.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJAqmDUUdmySTROFXNVBC8cu4FnABvg6KUExJ2I6yRMRNg54DHjebzXMj6JRYfgnfWrrsdqGP0Mcca8zWneKeYnUTGcSWuiEKxVDWK6JxcYcydAulpK0TdAAMZD7_1Id5PgE59YXGJU7bf/s1600/IMG_0005.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJAqmDUUdmySTROFXNVBC8cu4FnABvg6KUExJ2I6yRMRNg54DHjebzXMj6JRYfgnfWrrsdqGP0Mcca8zWneKeYnUTGcSWuiEKxVDWK6JxcYcydAulpK0TdAAMZD7_1Id5PgE59YXGJU7bf/s320/IMG_0005.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Start at the side seam across from the pin mark.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h4>
Marking the Stitching Lines </h4>
<div>
The lines for stitching is easiest to mark now, either by chalk or with pins. I do a little of both. </div>
<div>
1. Add a pin in the wrist location, usually 3 inches below the top as in this example. Of course there is a place for design creaitivty here. I have made them longer to set into a seam. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
2. Mark the strait edge at 1" below the top. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
3. Mark another at 3" from the bottom. This gives enough depth so as not to have htings fall out of your pocket but also room enough for your hand to go in and out.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJRcKIcalIS6ORvx54-lN2y7DoSI4M7fz1zyhSkEgSapXqwprdmVioonKix4K-Wci6po6Q6QDvqR1d1Pur_BO8IGOTbvkkDL9ec_n9TFHF4WBOCB1fMkO0mDtNdGmPepXiJIC7zu99cuBS/s1600/IMG_0006.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJRcKIcalIS6ORvx54-lN2y7DoSI4M7fz1zyhSkEgSapXqwprdmVioonKix4K-Wci6po6Q6QDvqR1d1Pur_BO8IGOTbvkkDL9ec_n9TFHF4WBOCB1fMkO0mDtNdGmPepXiJIC7zu99cuBS/s320/IMG_0006.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Marking the sides.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<h3>
Stitching the Pocket</h3>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFYOL8Y3h27DLujJBkaw-2W5EQtgfOJ1RMKGdnf8nIUfes93fpcfae5nxSM7nHFElerPkdsazSIv732UP49AGCSTa3zp3ROFHHIqezwYn-CKtGUQLGjNUhEe1oXiutCf41pIVqJ-e7hQwj/s1600/IMG_0007.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFYOL8Y3h27DLujJBkaw-2W5EQtgfOJ1RMKGdnf8nIUfes93fpcfae5nxSM7nHFElerPkdsazSIv732UP49AGCSTa3zp3ROFHHIqezwYn-CKtGUQLGjNUhEe1oXiutCf41pIVqJ-e7hQwj/s320/IMG_0007.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Line it all up.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
Now is time to do some sewing! Place and match up the strait edge right sides together. Sew in a 3/8 inch seam. This is for a normal 5/8" seam allowance of the original garment. If it is different than sew this seam slightly less. This will set the pocket inside the seam.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOyW-hf5qYW7BjG_Z76UgJ-N9E6o1C-f-7DtvOtAppbSic4MZsOy9B8ZvE5WWHgBC1aeurXU4Ts0o2F0SNS53IdsRg2AEqTZrBRguPdsdqicC5aXfYnTQ40aT17yEOxfKtfQyT77K4AhXt/s1600/IMG_0008.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOyW-hf5qYW7BjG_Z76UgJ-N9E6o1C-f-7DtvOtAppbSic4MZsOy9B8ZvE5WWHgBC1aeurXU4Ts0o2F0SNS53IdsRg2AEqTZrBRguPdsdqicC5aXfYnTQ40aT17yEOxfKtfQyT77K4AhXt/s320/IMG_0008.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stitch at 3/8" or a measurement less than your seam allowance.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h4>
Press the Seam Allowance</h4>
<div>
To make sure the fabric is sewn correctly, this step is important. Press the pocket out.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl5MJCABysfXuEhJE8Dub74vQfdd3sixdpDHUJ89kcrmK8DnmxLb4ZIdnHRM-1t8D1ELTQVXeKhWP241E8sKHv3394IrN3i5-ppm0QqdYssgYnYyQko77zkGhmOt6kxeZ4c9TBAbRbp-IG/s1600/IMG_0009.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl5MJCABysfXuEhJE8Dub74vQfdd3sixdpDHUJ89kcrmK8DnmxLb4ZIdnHRM-1t8D1ELTQVXeKhWP241E8sKHv3394IrN3i5-ppm0QqdYssgYnYyQko77zkGhmOt6kxeZ4c9TBAbRbp-IG/s320/IMG_0009.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Iron seam allowances out.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h4>
Sew the Two Seams and Pocket Together</h4>
<div>
Line up the pockets and seams being sure everything is matched up perfectly. Pin at the top of the pocket, at the 1" mark and a few on the bag pieces. Pin at the 3" mark and base of pocket. These are all areas that need to stay in place as you work.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih9uTkTaNGCuzVFfE2vammr3Zh5uept0UmShFQ9AM2Bt6jU9J05yQH5jBu0-BcMO7AEEQ2lxTpdtbYnKaqofaR4WOkMbyspvMsCjT52oJCAslkMDtCPhspgHOniCD_2VZd9iFxgMaMtA0Y/s1600/IMG_0011.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih9uTkTaNGCuzVFfE2vammr3Zh5uept0UmShFQ9AM2Bt6jU9J05yQH5jBu0-BcMO7AEEQ2lxTpdtbYnKaqofaR4WOkMbyspvMsCjT52oJCAslkMDtCPhspgHOniCD_2VZd9iFxgMaMtA0Y/s320/IMG_0011.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Line it all up evenly, especially top and bottom for a nice smooth fisnished pocket.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h3>
Sewing it All Together</h3>
<div>
1. Stitch from the start of the opended seam down to the 1" mark. </div>
<div>
2. Turn around, stitch to 1/2" below the top of the pocket (seam allowance amount). </div>
<div>
3. Turn sideways and go around pocket all the way to the dress seam again and in 5/8".</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Note: You want to be sewing on the inside of the original sewing line, where the pocket went onto the dress. It can be seen and felt under the layers.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
4. Turn work and go up to the 3" mark. </div>
<div>
5. Turn back again and go down, and keep going along previous line and then onto the dress seam until the end.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUZVxvam_4__KeDhpwv2ZTVAToMFAM4-IODw2SmEpHzyiUOk2L_anxrTA4jHWX8JwNzDmRqu4zWOuXwrrBc8eQ6fWwZ8nlOMec4sdTlLkg40IAY240kF2cbkrO5JG16BCtzd0l4u3UN4RM/s1600/IMG_0021.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUZVxvam_4__KeDhpwv2ZTVAToMFAM4-IODw2SmEpHzyiUOk2L_anxrTA4jHWX8JwNzDmRqu4zWOuXwrrBc8eQ6fWwZ8nlOMec4sdTlLkg40IAY240kF2cbkrO5JG16BCtzd0l4u3UN4RM/s320/IMG_0021.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sewing down to 1" mark and turning back. The pin is marking the spot to stop and return.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwqu0hLnkEpfk3fRU58SxpkqWkKh1J_zXKu9wFTh0nucrEby7Hg3boufYgCWVgURklTcWGhp1MZaf_nFuPr_AaTvg8VcKmzb3WkXSf6-hUlztHum32Hdi-eBfb527uv-3ZhCgMDKXLriPm/s1600/IMG_0022.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwqu0hLnkEpfk3fRU58SxpkqWkKh1J_zXKu9wFTh0nucrEby7Hg3boufYgCWVgURklTcWGhp1MZaf_nFuPr_AaTvg8VcKmzb3WkXSf6-hUlztHum32Hdi-eBfb527uv-3ZhCgMDKXLriPm/s400/IMG_0022.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finished Pocket</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
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<h3>
Turn Out and Press</h3>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQO9CJgpK7nlEVb2IpHdcqb0RRSSuajVt81eaaSsf5xcD8rfG3K0OZ73wfd5vPkBTaTGkokM9o9rHM2V57Dpo7twela7F3SF1yX-x-ntZrfHR3yl9qdqFuz-LXwS2mjzhzUSrlGOmS3ylr/s1600/IMG_0023.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQO9CJgpK7nlEVb2IpHdcqb0RRSSuajVt81eaaSsf5xcD8rfG3K0OZ73wfd5vPkBTaTGkokM9o9rHM2V57Dpo7twela7F3SF1yX-x-ntZrfHR3yl9qdqFuz-LXwS2mjzhzUSrlGOmS3ylr/s320/IMG_0023.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The pocket should be just inside the seam line.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilLwpBv5nQX0pgE1eQStw65ZCkvvTjpVW1euqgn-YpSZ6B06lBs9g1M-94RnXFKioQr6xDboSmeI5Qh2XTEcSOKCp_x0z9b3y3nJwkpakDKOoLz69GVOCmEYs5DLtBiTnWVmH0S3X8Dipi/s1600/IMG_0024.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilLwpBv5nQX0pgE1eQStw65ZCkvvTjpVW1euqgn-YpSZ6B06lBs9g1M-94RnXFKioQr6xDboSmeI5Qh2XTEcSOKCp_x0z9b3y3nJwkpakDKOoLz69GVOCmEYs5DLtBiTnWVmH0S3X8Dipi/s320/IMG_0024.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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Just for those who were wondering what the whole dress looks like that got the new pocket, here it is. Vintage Made in Hawaii by Holo Holo. </div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyhYetlzE0N1clGToKiKiDfC6kuVXOIcYachBWv8bFyUGhLC5AKzs9LtUfm9lawf65Uj6iaa3LnRz9Z2zi3avuISqrxNcctSWbaZSY6USsbOE9SqnsJN95cBbUMXukii6jWIm97qhRHXVg/s1600/IMG_7880.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyhYetlzE0N1clGToKiKiDfC6kuVXOIcYachBWv8bFyUGhLC5AKzs9LtUfm9lawf65Uj6iaa3LnRz9Z2zi3avuISqrxNcctSWbaZSY6USsbOE9SqnsJN95cBbUMXukii6jWIm97qhRHXVg/s640/IMG_7880.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1970's Vintage Hawaiian</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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yarndivahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10132680063667909853noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7714166932152347946.post-64329333038797003282020-03-23T14:57:00.004-07:002020-03-23T15:08:45.983-07:00Home Made Soap<h2 style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">Anne Makes Soap</span><span style="font-size: large;">...and you can too.</span></h2>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg92tx2yzCU5h1k-O-DV1ABuaMKSxpl7ljJThjAh3SM41Xbu9mWqYmrvq2gcOQcJH7AXT0on9Pd8ZSORemSP027fO3VAzGy_gjtXWhj12fNsnqYL19HYKao5WGpB9ouqvIzEAXGwFG4v8mb/s1600/IMG_0964.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg92tx2yzCU5h1k-O-DV1ABuaMKSxpl7ljJThjAh3SM41Xbu9mWqYmrvq2gcOQcJH7AXT0on9Pd8ZSORemSP027fO3VAzGy_gjtXWhj12fNsnqYL19HYKao5WGpB9ouqvIzEAXGwFG4v8mb/s640/IMG_0964.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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This is a very old time proceedure that has great every day benefit to nearly every one. Making soap is another of those housewifely things people did in our recent past that have a place in our homes today, if we want to take the time. Easier than sewing, in case you are wondering. ;) I have been making my own soap for over 25 years and have been asked many times how to do this and so will do that here. There are many sources for supplies and many tutorials surely. Seek them all out for more insight. My own favorite is <a href="http://www.thesage.com/">Mountain Sage Soap Makers Supply</a> for start.</div>
<h3>
Assemble Your Supplies</h3>
<div>
I have gathered a nice set of supplies over the years and so what you see me using you may not have, or have yet. When I started no supplies such as mould boxes were around, so mine were made for me. I bet you can now find everything. Because of this I will include basics and you can search for extras yourself as needed.</div>
<div>
The soap, water and lye bring about a very caustic mixture. All utensils and pans need to be able to tolerate this as well as the heat generated. Leave your favorite kitchen utensils out of this project. No aluminum.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<b>Tools:</b></div>
<div>
Kitchen Scale</div>
<div>
Kitchen gloves</div>
<div>
Glass measuring cup Large 8 cup or equivalent.</div>
<div>
Small glass measuring cup</div>
<div>
4 Plastic tupperware style containers </div>
<div>
Large stainless steel wisk</div>
<div>
Large stainless steel or plastic spoon</div>
<div>
Large stainless or Glass Pyrex stock pot</div>
<div>
2 Shoe Box sized moulds.</div>
<div>
Fleece Blanket</div>
<div>
Bath Towel</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Nice to have if possible:</div>
<div>
Pastry cutter</div>
<div>
Mitre Box</div>
<div>
Wire bakery racks</div>
<div>
Long thin fillet knife</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyN9tEndkZwJregSRfhmMwHvqhHXguMoOMRtaYLzgpW8IB5414GIuHrMm3dW7lHDOphUcpQnZxXmeJ4y4AC2OP4ZpoT15LuC2R0JfWTiEiqSCl1QdJJvgjUFPvj24QYEvNW19utOPE0NWx/s1600/IMG_0013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyN9tEndkZwJregSRfhmMwHvqhHXguMoOMRtaYLzgpW8IB5414GIuHrMm3dW7lHDOphUcpQnZxXmeJ4y4AC2OP4ZpoT15LuC2R0JfWTiEiqSCl1QdJJvgjUFPvj24QYEvNW19utOPE0NWx/s320/IMG_0013.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My Best Pot for Soap - Visionsware. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h3>
The Recipe</h3>
<div>
This is my tried and true recipe. I have changed it up many times to make special soaps such as shampoo, creamy oatmeal and antiseptic soaps. You can too but this is the base. The quality is great and is the most economical. It works. I leave out expensive oils but if you feel creative than go ahead. Many recipes are out there. I mainly like clean clean clean.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
12 Oz Lye</div>
<div>
32 Oz Cold Water</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
24 oz Cocount Oil</div>
<div>
24 oz Olive</div>
<div>
38 oz Crisco</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
4 oz essential oil</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Notes: The olive oil used can be Pomace oil. No need for the best food quality here, and in fact Pomace olive oil is great. Go off brand for the Crisco too. Hydrogenated cottonseed or soybean oil is fine. I don't use perfume oils for soaps. Lye (sodium hydroxide) is found at hardware stores.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<h3>
Get Started</h3>
<div>
Prepare the mould. I use a home made box that comes apart, so htat is what is shown but you do not need that right now. When I started I used two Rubbermaid shoe boxes and so you can start there. Grease the sides with shortening so he soap will come out easier. They will be filled about half way with your soap recipe. I have found that two smaller ones seemed to cure better than one big one for me but be aware you can use one larger one. Just my preference. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Create a curing location that is draft free for the boxes to sit for 24 hours. I have used different spots for this, being mindful that they ned to be safe from cold and not be knocked over. Place a towel under and blankets with go on top later.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Get all supplies together and pre-measure the oils. Set aside.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
THIS PART IS IMPORTANT. <b>Soap is caustic and dangerous when being made</b>.</div>
<div>
<b>Make sure all distractions are gone. Do this only when no children or pets are nearby. Clear the area of clutter. </b></div>
<h4>
Mix the Lye and Water</h4>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2F39wZVzjwGAq-BfBPm8y41rTMwIGJhNkXIE6P4gL3hyphenhyphensp5gmZVSQBLp3bBG5vkF9V85Om24ReHenIe1A0q27-vPkeoNrQ5XjXL87YpRjkpamiddQwvt8pZfOHVWTcrIuUWuiTUFa6gw-/s1600/IMG_0005.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1195" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2F39wZVzjwGAq-BfBPm8y41rTMwIGJhNkXIE6P4gL3hyphenhyphensp5gmZVSQBLp3bBG5vkF9V85Om24ReHenIe1A0q27-vPkeoNrQ5XjXL87YpRjkpamiddQwvt8pZfOHVWTcrIuUWuiTUFa6gw-/s320/IMG_0005.jpg" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lye station is ready to be taken outside.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
DO THIS OUTSIDE. There are fumes when water and lye are mixed together. Turn away and do not breathe. I take a breath and hold it for this!</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Slowly pour the lye granules into the water. Mix with metal wise. It will get very hot. Set aside in a safe place. Bring inside after a minimum of 15 minutes.</div>
<h4>
Mix the Oils</h4>
<div>
Add all the oils to the pot and melt, using the lowest heat. When melted, turn off heat and remove pot from burner. This helps to cool faster.</div>
<h4>
Combine the Lye Mixture and Oil Mixture</h4>
<div>
This part is done when both the lye and oil have cooled down a bit. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
The tempertature should be about 90 degrees, way down from the melting point. How long it takes varies with air temperature and how hot the stove burner was. Usually about 30 minutes or so. I test by touch in the oil, if it feels hot but not burning hot then it is time. Also the oild gets lightly cloudy when cooling. Not too scientific, I know. The lye container should be warm but not burning hot. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Add the lye mixture to the oil pot slowly. Mix with wire risk carefully. DO NOT SPLASH this mixture. When mixed switch to the hand blender. This device is not essential but sure does a nice job of completely mixing. After a few minutes the soap will thicken. This is the chemical reaction beginning and soap being created. It will leave marks on the top as when making gravy or pudding. This is called the trace. When you can drip onto the top of the mixure and it stays on top you are done.</div>
<h4>
Add in Color if Desired</h4>
<div>
I rarely do, but many people love this. I will leave that to your own research as to what and how. Lots out there on the topic.</div>
<h4>
Mix in Essential Oil </h4>
<div>
Add in your scent in desired. Mix completely. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<h3>
Pouring Time!</h3>
<div>
Now pour into your prepared moulds. I usually fill two shoebox ones half way. When both are evenly poured I take a spoon and mix one last time to make sure it all is evenly mixed. Cover both and place safely away on top of the towel and place the blanket on top. This is to insulate as the continuing chemical reaction takes place. It will get warm again and then cool when ready.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxNNcLgnhgJ-3NpKd8u9Jbk1ztGidyAeIG1_TQAW-A4jViYr-Tt_LGKKEYNf14rCjN1iCIhB-5RLk7LHhR_wlW961Q4hFP5HrhhzMC1peHcJcgAsPDLAC_TiukJIu5JApvD4YYIqaWUA4D/s1600/IMG_0001+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1370" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxNNcLgnhgJ-3NpKd8u9Jbk1ztGidyAeIG1_TQAW-A4jViYr-Tt_LGKKEYNf14rCjN1iCIhB-5RLk7LHhR_wlW961Q4hFP5HrhhzMC1peHcJcgAsPDLAC_TiukJIu5JApvD4YYIqaWUA4D/s320/IMG_0001+%25281%2529.jpg" width="274" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Warm and Cozy for one day.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h3>
Opening the Mould.</h3>
<div>
After 24 hours, or the next day, it should be cool and ready to open. Open the lid but don't remove the soap. It need to dry another day or two. When the time has come and it can come out, have your towel out. Turn over the mould and it should come out. If not, let it dry more. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjv4_mnGWumudbFcf9UctlTSzGTvmnfltBVLrjjabPhLp4GpxENHl6vVsftcNUXMBgttYkXJQD45qJ7a_LvgI54DI6z7gtyVUMD8HxHS9WwEWpakVYYcZHddK9HZ7nhNbo6GjL_T9M-Bzc/s1600/IMG_0003.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1195" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjv4_mnGWumudbFcf9UctlTSzGTvmnfltBVLrjjabPhLp4GpxENHl6vVsftcNUXMBgttYkXJQD45qJ7a_LvgI54DI6z7gtyVUMD8HxHS9WwEWpakVYYcZHddK9HZ7nhNbo6GjL_T9M-Bzc/s320/IMG_0003.jpg" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Opening the mould. This is a box with door hngles. I remove the pin and it comes apart.</td></tr>
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<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<h3>
Cutting and Drying</h3>
<div>
I use an old mitre box to do this and have the bars come out even. You may not need this and can cut soap any way you like. The pastry cutter gives some texture to the cut as well as being easy to handle. A thin paring knife is another good choice. The soap should be soft but not sticky. If it is too soft, wait. Now that I have been at it a while, have found an old guitar string is best for cutting but it had to go into a wood frame to handle well. I bet there are soap cutters now. Place each bar onto the bakery rack.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8TPUGNCoqZz0J3zR4rpn3-g3nzuaSN_t0AukL8-uwlp_CS484cB3vpH9xw5frBIOz2D-6fH_MLzvV9JHW5kcpLkEYYkTecygdm8kfEOswHQKOKEmwso2ZzzShyGhZARL1NQ8cQa3Ataxi/s1600/IMG_0004.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1195" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8TPUGNCoqZz0J3zR4rpn3-g3nzuaSN_t0AukL8-uwlp_CS484cB3vpH9xw5frBIOz2D-6fH_MLzvV9JHW5kcpLkEYYkTecygdm8kfEOswHQKOKEmwso2ZzzShyGhZARL1NQ8cQa3Ataxi/s320/IMG_0004.jpg" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ready to cut!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVvaH_zFwUXJvCbo2yZ8NAlrZd8xzaLPV4prkCrDw1Bm3lx6uWmMIOViFb4bhDL_LLoCeL2B9eBKmPq1KwYl-15GxPrCd1B3VombeqSPNym1rX_f5JpP_2bRMYk_-Ah1MllxkJ5sXyUePX/s1600/IMG_0964.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVvaH_zFwUXJvCbo2yZ8NAlrZd8xzaLPV4prkCrDw1Bm3lx6uWmMIOViFb4bhDL_LLoCeL2B9eBKmPq1KwYl-15GxPrCd1B3VombeqSPNym1rX_f5JpP_2bRMYk_-Ah1MllxkJ5sXyUePX/s320/IMG_0964.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<h3>
Now the Wait....</h3>
<div>
The soap needs a bit more time to dry further and become more mild. Usually two weeks at minimum. Enjoy!</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Now, all kinds of things can go wrong. I have had every disaster happen, and yet I also have had it go right too. There is help out there for a better next time. Generally this works and you get about 40 bars of soap. Good, high quality soap. Great gifts too for both men and women and all kinds of people. I use nothing else now, with the exception of other people's home made soap! You'll be the same I bet. Clean it up people!</div>
yarndivahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10132680063667909853noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7714166932152347946.post-50205131863476306792019-06-26T17:27:00.001-07:002019-06-26T19:58:05.050-07:00Home Canning Soup Broth<br />
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<br />
Beware! A departure from Sewing today.<br />
<br />
There are so many home canning recipes useful for every day cooking but few as much as this one that I repeat over and over: Soup broth. For me, it a favorite because it is a way to use vegetable trimmings and bones from the kitchen that would otherwise be trash. Free! This broth also tastes really good so will add a nice touch to a simple meal. The canning part keeps my freezer clear and gives more time to use it than refrigeration. You can have good tasting soup or use to make a sauce anytime. 2-3 large jars makes a large pot of soup.<br />
<br />
Note: I nearly always add some chicken or vegetable bouillon cubes (or equivalent) and herbs to my broth to give some seasoning before actually serving it in a meal. Not when canning. You may find this a little bland. I keep it that way so it is adaptable for use in as many recipes as possible.<br />
<br />
This is a basic procedure for canning. In the case of soup broth, a pressure canner is needed. No water bath canning for anything like this. A good idea would be to read up on the basics here: <a href="https://www.freshpreserving.com/canning-101-getting-started.html">Ball Basic Canning Information</a><br />
<br />
Pressure canner are not cheap but very durable. I have used this for 30 years. Rubber gaskets that fit inside the lid are available if you need a replacement for a used one you might find or if yours is old.<br />
<a href="http://www.pressurecooker-outlet.com/Pressure-Canners.htm">Pressure Canner Gaskets</a><br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">What you will need:</span><br />
<br />
*A Pressure Canner.<br />
*12 Quart Jars (the big ones)<br />
*12 lids and rings (tops)<br />
*Jar lifter<br />
*Canning funnel<br />
*Ladle<br />
*Large mesh kitchen strainer<br />
*2-3 Stockpots<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Make the Stock</span><br />
<br />
Cook and strain your broth.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vegetable Trims for Broth</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
This is a typical batch. Make your stock as normal, by filling the pot with water until just covering. If this a vegetable only broth then simmer 2 hours is enough to get a good flavor. For bones go three hours. More time is fine. Remove all ingredients and then strain the liquid stock through the wire mesh strainer. Get as much out as possible so as tho have a nice clear broth. If there is a lot of sediment at the bottom of the pot, leave it out and discard that little bit.<br />
<br />
If you have a lot of vegetables, use many pots to cook then combine later. I usually use three pots then combine into one big one after straining ( shown at the top of this picture above).<br />
<br />
If this takes a long time, refrigerate your broth until ready to can. The next step takes about 1 1/2 hours start to finish with wait time so be ready. The next day is best.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Get Pressure Canner Ready</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
Fill the canner with water about 3".<br />
Turn on heat. Bring to a boil.<br />
<br />
This amount varies with the number of jars that go in so there will be some adding or removing at times. Keep a kettle of hot water nearby for this.<br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Get Your Jars Ready</span><br />
Wash jars and lids thoroughly in hot water. Keep jars in hot water in the sink.<br />
<br />
or.....One trick I have used that will get me in trouble but I will share anyway as it is so helpful: low oven warmer. I place clean jars face down on a jelly roll pan. Turn the oven on to 200, the lowest setting. When it gets warm, I turn it off and keep the door shut until ready. Generally you do not heat jars in the oven but this has worked for me for years.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Get the Lids Ready</span><br />
Place your lids in a pan of hot water. This is not to sterilize but to keep warn to as to get a good seal. Do not boil. I place the pan close to my broth pot and it keeps warm with out fussing over it.<br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Set Rings Aside But Close By.</span><br />
They will be needed shortly.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Bring Broth to a Boil</span><br />
Heat broth until boiling. Hard boil for at least one minute. Turn off heat.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Now is the Time to Bring it All Together</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Canner is Ready</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPG4TGdL74sfEXT7RRbwRFemuIPyqkZHFghhXuTEElwC1lwJ-zlxh_I0JRmWZF-dMyN8aac5veH2CEEF-WuauFv6W35xrbUPGvy62ReNIH3SUzRvZJylo9J0huMUXVaklFWetl_eajzrS0/s1600/IMG_0005.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPG4TGdL74sfEXT7RRbwRFemuIPyqkZHFghhXuTEElwC1lwJ-zlxh_I0JRmWZF-dMyN8aac5veH2CEEF-WuauFv6W35xrbUPGvy62ReNIH3SUzRvZJylo9J0huMUXVaklFWetl_eajzrS0/s320/IMG_0005.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Broth is Ready</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
It is time.<br />
Canner water is HOT<br />
Broth is HOT.<br />
Fill jars to 2" below the top.<br />
<br />
Now you fill the jars. Use the ladle and the funnel. The jars will be hot so I use a oven mitt to hold and a ladle with the other hand. Be neat here. The extra space is to allow for the broth to boil and not make a mess or not seal later. This is a little more than normal canning procedure.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0_NSltLffheCaaFhiltNYN_WBhXWk9OTMRcLlfXFbKbk6HDkP_TTRQn64BEXnHgGjybJQKno2SqWvkhDaDgkBBeOrrEWtlUUull5P2XtdyzB6JBeDV31-EutZxJ4EalqXKul09GAeRmKT/s1600/IMG_0006.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0_NSltLffheCaaFhiltNYN_WBhXWk9OTMRcLlfXFbKbk6HDkP_TTRQn64BEXnHgGjybJQKno2SqWvkhDaDgkBBeOrrEWtlUUull5P2XtdyzB6JBeDV31-EutZxJ4EalqXKul09GAeRmKT/s320/IMG_0006.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fill the Jars</td></tr>
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<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">Clean Jar Tops.</span><br />
Clean tops make a clean seal. Wipe each jar top edge with a wet paper towel.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyOnxn63Pem0ywedFDFXmmH4wziaiji4LgQoO4qhiSb4jfbNZpCiuTFwQlrzVE9TNiH59U7Y8Rk0Y1AU2T86our_rOR3BeF6HURq-DfSMYYbdH3fTbmVMTY7oj43irMZ6houM-UP19sEkA/s1600/IMG_0007.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyOnxn63Pem0ywedFDFXmmH4wziaiji4LgQoO4qhiSb4jfbNZpCiuTFwQlrzVE9TNiH59U7Y8Rk0Y1AU2T86our_rOR3BeF6HURq-DfSMYYbdH3fTbmVMTY7oj43irMZ6houM-UP19sEkA/s320/IMG_0007.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Place Jars Into Canner</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCLx1OeAeFI2Dh-l9K2rMk9VOKBmiHLZsbpkVV_LYbkEKJiehyphenhyphenzXlWc1xALZvsV78tfyJdni0ECN3NpjIMGTBUupZtpYBF34hqrZ5PjP0mlJnhydCbtMHvi-r1qgW-TB7Cy588qRLOP9AX/s1600/IMG_0008.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCLx1OeAeFI2Dh-l9K2rMk9VOKBmiHLZsbpkVV_LYbkEKJiehyphenhyphenzXlWc1xALZvsV78tfyJdni0ECN3NpjIMGTBUupZtpYBF34hqrZ5PjP0mlJnhydCbtMHvi-r1qgW-TB7Cy588qRLOP9AX/s320/IMG_0008.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jar Placement and Water Level</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
Space them equally in the pot. They SHOULD NOT TOUCH the pot or another jar. That causes breaks. The water should be about half way up the jars. Add more or ladle some out accordingly.<br />
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I can fit 7 jars. That means there will be two batches.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Close Canner Top and Set Canner Pressure</span><br />
The recipe calls for 10 Pounds Pressure for 25 Minutes.<br />
The tops usually look like this and are numbered:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZNXmLHJ8yM1-90jSJmyb_ztNRi6Q-vqVrT3QiFDMEbROIsB_nis92VX6QKebju0WVYLu5GP9K5DeNYl4cE2nADNReyZqGQTbW3SIMlFmcMseua-Q0jw4Hi6ks0aR6YmCpADJBrx4MpD4E/s1600/IMG_0009.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZNXmLHJ8yM1-90jSJmyb_ztNRi6Q-vqVrT3QiFDMEbROIsB_nis92VX6QKebju0WVYLu5GP9K5DeNYl4cE2nADNReyZqGQTbW3SIMlFmcMseua-Q0jw4Hi6ks0aR6YmCpADJBrx4MpD4E/s320/IMG_0009.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pressure Canner Regulator</td></tr>
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<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Canning Time Begins</span><br />
The canning time begins when the pressure regulator start to jiggle. This takes a bit of time, my stove about 15 minutes or so. When it seals and the sound comes up then set your timer for 25 minutes.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Time is Up</span><br />
When time is up turn off heat and walk away. The cooling process takes a while. DO NOT RUSH THIS by fooling with the regulator or by pouring cold water like with smaller pressure cookers.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Get a Space Ready For Hot Jars</span><br />
Use a folded cotton towel on the counter to set hot wet jars.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Opening the Canner</span><br />
When it is cooled down, the regulator is still and the locks are down on the canner handles, you can open. Remove the jars carefully with the jar lifter and place them on the towel.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: x-large;">NOW is the Bestest Time......</span><br />
The cooling jars will now begin to make home canner's favorite sound. A popping noise as the jars seal.<br />
<br />
If after a few hours you have a few that did not seal, you can do this all again if you want. Just bring it all back up to boil to sterilize.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKaZvsOHOwBffXpkaN9JUgCxW_h0E7m2MrspJAp5wmeaJYvVqMuP13MqMESL6v_ovcym822-f_Q76T8GH9wB4Q06YaCZ8Y81VJbOfKR12JmGufNlqKk17Ixh4aC9LzSOzbigK6qFjGhe3u/s1600/IMG_0002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKaZvsOHOwBffXpkaN9JUgCxW_h0E7m2MrspJAp5wmeaJYvVqMuP13MqMESL6v_ovcym822-f_Q76T8GH9wB4Q06YaCZ8Y81VJbOfKR12JmGufNlqKk17Ixh4aC9LzSOzbigK6qFjGhe3u/s320/IMG_0002.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Production Site!</td></tr>
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<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Repeat the Process for Second Batch if Needed.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
When cooled, you can make labels for them. I use them up pretty fast but here is how to do it an easy way if interested. <a href="http://silkmothsewing.blogspot.com/search/label/Home%20Canning">Paper Jar Labels</a>yarndivahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10132680063667909853noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7714166932152347946.post-4862088056951407402017-09-09T13:50:00.004-07:002020-05-24T11:05:24.252-07:00An American Industrial Classic - The Willcox and Gibbs High Speed Lockstitch Sewing Machine<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLlFP_NR7lpRcdLNIOTjKOig6o0oN1fJWzIATrC3NwGgHsvemSSYVktkpG7yM_iOs-lrzj_CQYf6eyL2x0A1aTsbtsqVoJUHGP4F_6xcl9PpizaS-nU2pvFBvKeoVSo-6jWnv4eH0gRV_z/s1600/IMG_5088.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1196" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLlFP_NR7lpRcdLNIOTjKOig6o0oN1fJWzIATrC3NwGgHsvemSSYVktkpG7yM_iOs-lrzj_CQYf6eyL2x0A1aTsbtsqVoJUHGP4F_6xcl9PpizaS-nU2pvFBvKeoVSo-6jWnv4eH0gRV_z/s320/IMG_5088.JPG" width="239" /></a></div>
Oh what a beauty. Also, what a mystery. If you find yourself here searching for information on this industrial sewing machine,then hopefully you can glean some help. This old timer came into my sewing room with nothing to help me understand how it operated and very little available online. That meant I better do some "hands on" experimentation. This post is the result of what I found.<br />
<br />
It operates somewhat similarly to other industrial sewing machines but there are some significant differences. I'll point those out. On a side note, I have also found the Willcox and Gibbs to be quite adaptable to home use for things like quilting, general dressmaking and mending.<br />
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<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The Willcox Gibbs High Speed Lockstitch Sewing Machine with Automatic Lubrication.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1_mMYcHFVRQ1cEY4b_EnMJE8j8vQv80Mo3S18ATyrJMNZ7hOyrSedawdx_Yoqq9du6jqeo4o83oGp1vFWcPnHD5DqdU1QJvSKHykBgpQnc2832ynqPtah1ksAz14JN3YzYbtAZmBFHDe-/s1600/IMG_5083.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1_mMYcHFVRQ1cEY4b_EnMJE8j8vQv80Mo3S18ATyrJMNZ7hOyrSedawdx_Yoqq9du6jqeo4o83oGp1vFWcPnHD5DqdU1QJvSKHykBgpQnc2832ynqPtah1ksAz14JN3YzYbtAZmBFHDe-/s320/IMG_5083.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1940? Unknown age.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Willcox and Gibbs was founded in 1855 with their famous chainstitch sewing machine. Many of these survive and were made into the 1920's so many people know the Willcox Gibbs name for this machine.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPA8RvSEM3MyhS6RpAm4c1_4gzfNC4oW0uqVdwIbkoHTwIDrER9z2HIYQQYpy-n2HPrghvhG5yvZaUtO_kDLH23fUeavvmvJ7ybSr4R6XkKWLeLrba0f5G91OVdPBVYGkNq9fJw9EjWAJl/s1600/IMG_1647.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPA8RvSEM3MyhS6RpAm4c1_4gzfNC4oW0uqVdwIbkoHTwIDrER9z2HIYQQYpy-n2HPrghvhG5yvZaUtO_kDLH23fUeavvmvJ7ybSr4R6XkKWLeLrba0f5G91OVdPBVYGkNq9fJw9EjWAJl/s320/IMG_1647.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Willcox and Gibbs Chainstich Sewing Machine 1875.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Many years and innovations later the company would focus on the industrial sewing machine trade. The one I was most familiar with is the overlock first introduced in the 1880's and made into the 1970's. The company diversified and then stopped being in the sewing machine business in 1978, a long run indeed. The particular model discussed on this post, the lockstitch, was introduced in 1899 as a power driven high speed machine for the garment industry. It would come with compatible tables and motors designed for ease of use, power saving and reliability. The rotary feed and tension units took stress off the thread by turning in rotation rather than tugging on the spool, reducing breakage and parts wear.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5nH7f4REawL95Qvv60zpvjTJa3lQLWZMQArxDNI_qcniWCtw0i0OYp4BeD1bUs9Q7AMuL-oLh6pjoiY7IfMGQdUrz5_8erbNarwbVlnXV_vLr_royS5BfaONMCwxg7N76-UPzlkObXvoO/s1600/19146017_10210938695796605_119905297910988030_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="456" data-original-width="640" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5nH7f4REawL95Qvv60zpvjTJa3lQLWZMQArxDNI_qcniWCtw0i0OYp4BeD1bUs9Q7AMuL-oLh6pjoiY7IfMGQdUrz5_8erbNarwbVlnXV_vLr_royS5BfaONMCwxg7N76-UPzlkObXvoO/s320/19146017_10210938695796605_119905297910988030_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Willcox Gibbs High Speed Lockstitch in a Factory Setting</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmTgsmXXZedQ5QWrI6YySywEHRxAfLlVnAMDAG4N1GWNz0UVQEYEbegwGDqNEz9Hs9snPg-MrMBhH2fAOgzvYBHcykTDQz59YX7zd6Pi9g44vBljjpFcCgt0VKcPxQBmWVStnBrZ1LXNGC/s1600/SIL10-333-03a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="882" data-original-width="1000" height="564" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmTgsmXXZedQ5QWrI6YySywEHRxAfLlVnAMDAG4N1GWNz0UVQEYEbegwGDqNEz9Hs9snPg-MrMBhH2fAOgzvYBHcykTDQz59YX7zd6Pi9g44vBljjpFcCgt0VKcPxQBmWVStnBrZ1LXNGC/s640/SIL10-333-03a.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8GfAIigv9xB662tmzFr5zGdXVx_d8EHi2TCwpdmcZLBU0HatWSB7NG_pkAtQBrP-mYJMzyTCkZpFPjIzdGWbjh5LD5tT_mfRHDy4zQV1yLED35dUT3eopo4PFw71uwy-6Uw180VK-b1xd/s1600/SIL10-352-01a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="588" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8GfAIigv9xB662tmzFr5zGdXVx_d8EHi2TCwpdmcZLBU0HatWSB7NG_pkAtQBrP-mYJMzyTCkZpFPjIzdGWbjh5LD5tT_mfRHDy4zQV1yLED35dUT3eopo4PFw71uwy-6Uw180VK-b1xd/s320/SIL10-352-01a.jpg" width="188" /></a></div>
The model I am using is a later version, unknown age. Best estimation is late 1930's or early 1940's. It has an added feature - Automatic Lubrication. This mechanism has a system of tubes to carry oil to all major oiling points.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYQ8S0Tczfo-2LOBydBjhONgmbwFS8MKiwRkqS2DwNsOEgeB79uBoXWL_x2TFrYLnZCE4XhdcNqpxYt0e-eNFrYQCd50sEcfvvnkAMboR7t3VFDh3fcJ_Q-HuIL6EyNqfGkxspQI3QBrdF/s1600/IMG_5112.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYQ8S0Tczfo-2LOBydBjhONgmbwFS8MKiwRkqS2DwNsOEgeB79uBoXWL_x2TFrYLnZCE4XhdcNqpxYt0e-eNFrYQCd50sEcfvvnkAMboR7t3VFDh3fcJ_Q-HuIL6EyNqfGkxspQI3QBrdF/s320/IMG_5112.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
The tubes shown are only the top ones, there are many. The oil is transported through to drip precisely onto the gear as needed. Because of the high speed required in an garment industry setting, this is a real time saver and would prevent wear on the machine over time.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">How Do They Work?</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;">I first found some problems. It is a different bird as they say. Crazy presser feet, a wierd bobbin case and a lot of tangled thread in the rotary take up wheel. Ugh! An operators manual is my usual helper and was not to be found. The only manual located was on Ebay, and far away at that. I have heard there is one on the Smithsonian's archive website but i was unable to locate it presently. I suggest looking both places and getting one. In the mean time here are some basics.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></span>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyDPw9GL1oWMEJCMFQhTo5VN77PUaYkHzO7oXKn6POPhl-g0HgH5WmkhXk_oZsa1y4B-Oom0NG6hVxfuvODrgerSOp7hKeSNIURQtKweL54uYExq2Kw3gOJbju6oTHL2gN9ShyphenhyphenTAYT98h8/s1600/myphoto.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyDPw9GL1oWMEJCMFQhTo5VN77PUaYkHzO7oXKn6POPhl-g0HgH5WmkhXk_oZsa1y4B-Oom0NG6hVxfuvODrgerSOp7hKeSNIURQtKweL54uYExq2Kw3gOJbju6oTHL2gN9ShyphenhyphenTAYT98h8/s320/myphoto.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Basics.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>*The Hand Wheel Turns Away. Do not turn towards the operator.</b></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>* The thread releases with the needle at the highest position.</b> This is just like other machines.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;">*<b>Needle sets with Groove to the LEFT.</b> </span></span><br />
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<i><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: large;">Oiling the Machine.</span> </span></span></i><br />
<i><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b> </b></span></span></i><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyhnkfCWtYiAevp2SfFdCdVypeILhvGgDK1C06imMhdaBVaZYxz5qmG0SGGT7Lkq9KPHEy27jy9pmM4J6uBtvDhqyDxyMRNBSj8BUgxbnA3EXBIZdMBak-8B5EEodz6BjP8MOWJC8KBAk_/s1600/IMG_5100.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1196" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyhnkfCWtYiAevp2SfFdCdVypeILhvGgDK1C06imMhdaBVaZYxz5qmG0SGGT7Lkq9KPHEy27jy9pmM4J6uBtvDhqyDxyMRNBSj8BUgxbnA3EXBIZdMBak-8B5EEodz6BjP8MOWJC8KBAk_/s320/IMG_5100.JPG" width="239" /> </a></td><td style="text-align: center;"></td><td style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pull up lever on the oil pump to send the oil through the system.</td></tr>
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</b></span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheimsHHUQGX5WiHiyTjW2mRBSnoQiFm_rJ07cJFEPM5OyQPkdMIHk3pbYpaVeDKa5ZoMlH8_yrcVjhdAk1GCPxZng-dELPm3lbj-9Hphc9eghsyRlMfUd-03YPOGI4Ixd-EKO8aCWKGBLv/s1600/IMG_5099.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1196" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheimsHHUQGX5WiHiyTjW2mRBSnoQiFm_rJ07cJFEPM5OyQPkdMIHk3pbYpaVeDKa5ZoMlH8_yrcVjhdAk1GCPxZng-dELPm3lbj-9Hphc9eghsyRlMfUd-03YPOGI4Ixd-EKO8aCWKGBLv/s320/IMG_5099.JPG" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I use this to help pour the oil!</td></tr>
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</i></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;">The automatic lubrication machines should be tested. These operate very fast so it is essential that they be oiled properly to avoid damage. Before beginning fill the reserve with oil to the halfway point. If it overfilled it will leak. Pull the oil pump lever up, and let it go down slowly. There should a tiny drop of oil. Now, check the holes near the front and at the fly wheel. Add a little oil if it has been a long while since last us<b>e. </b>I suggest adding some oil to all the moving parts of the bobbin case area. The bobbin winder unit should have a few drops of oil added to the port over the turning arm. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;">Now that it has been given a little oil, run at high speed to see if the system is clear and operational. Open the cover at the top, see that a small drop of oil formed at the tube going down. If not, oil manually. In time my machine went from not dripping oil to working fine so maybe some old oil clogged it, now gone. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i><span style="font-size: large;">Threading.</span></i></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;">I have no threading diagram. There is one out there I saw it but cannot locate it. It seems it was on the Smithsonian's collection of trade ephemera. The threading procedure was a bit confusing, so here is how I do it with images to help.</span></span> </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmdev-0xT0abowYJ4lq9tsgqTVxknJGBPvUw2bG73elu5ca-TFyzQfMvLmzyNELY-U_8ZMuvIMCvHknSEb-nteWqk9nLFH_M92Mmp-MfpyD5Bm0pzlxoM5xkJOVW8mqMh5yjjvatZ3EVJP/s1600/IMG_5086.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1196" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmdev-0xT0abowYJ4lq9tsgqTVxknJGBPvUw2bG73elu5ca-TFyzQfMvLmzyNELY-U_8ZMuvIMCvHknSEb-nteWqk9nLFH_M92Mmp-MfpyD5Bm0pzlxoM5xkJOVW8mqMh5yjjvatZ3EVJP/s320/IMG_5086.JPG" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Start here. </td></tr>
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Thread goes from stand to holes on pillar arm, through the tension spring and around the tension assembly. It is advised to go around two times. Next thread through the hole in the front.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyRchYpLL55oOjJ19ochYhlPJuAFsCIv04tf7pgqYUcx78exOshJ7BgtOqtkW0sUYelLXkpuxZPsWhCs-CsFF6V3uilAsL8z1JYWZziMUDdq9Jbdra9_pIKlMgBl98argpPI6tViVzKjHY/s1600/myphoto.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1600" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyRchYpLL55oOjJ19ochYhlPJuAFsCIv04tf7pgqYUcx78exOshJ7BgtOqtkW0sUYelLXkpuxZPsWhCs-CsFF6V3uilAsL8z1JYWZziMUDdq9Jbdra9_pIKlMgBl98argpPI6tViVzKjHY/s320/myphoto.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">(This is the back view)</td></tr>
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Thread take up: Thread goes from the hole up-wards into the guide, down through the round section and out the bottom to needlebar guide. Thread goes Right to Left.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU6Jwny6HWDHVolvHNblF7gJ3tw7OlfS5_E_Bhm2P2Yh6r_hq3NJbnyBnRTvfctxluYBlN6m2_pJusUQcJ9sTqTTVYhNCpJQ3a5tJXuCNSZzhC8ClZM3RMvfpamHsNXcdsV4Rg2VPJp4wp/s1600/myphoto.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1196" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU6Jwny6HWDHVolvHNblF7gJ3tw7OlfS5_E_Bhm2P2Yh6r_hq3NJbnyBnRTvfctxluYBlN6m2_pJusUQcJ9sTqTTVYhNCpJQ3a5tJXuCNSZzhC8ClZM3RMvfpamHsNXcdsV4Rg2VPJp4wp/s320/myphoto.jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><i>Setting the Bobbin</i>.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i></i></span></span></div>
The Bobbin case fits onto an arm with no latch. It can b seen here. To access slide the cover. I really like this feature, so easy to access and see.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkIwRghxiv2wMmuQDtz3l6Fybr6ARLpUMyvwpX-fk_4rWZ2ZcNC3v8qSy6TlU9L4BfqKEphyrOG5SOAQJFSIkWxQvJK1a1r96JMtDZeETvhZKjONsN06ZmxO43ZB6vsnaDFPuqPZ-GvpZQ/s1600/IMG_5089.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1196" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkIwRghxiv2wMmuQDtz3l6Fybr6ARLpUMyvwpX-fk_4rWZ2ZcNC3v8qSy6TlU9L4BfqKEphyrOG5SOAQJFSIkWxQvJK1a1r96JMtDZeETvhZKjONsN06ZmxO43ZB6vsnaDFPuqPZ-GvpZQ/s320/IMG_5089.JPG" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bobbin case access</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i></i></span></span></div>
To change out the bobbin, raise the needle and pull back the arm holding the case. There is a small button to do this on the back side. To replace just push back. A note: I forget to do that a lot, as many machines you just snap the bobbin case into a hook/slot. After wondering why my machine will not pick up the bottom thread, realize then that I did not move it back- Duh.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLm9wV0ZkduMtZneZuoUV7PBW4qf4V_8rtYEM69z_eKTKZqczvWlq5C9HFBAKEWR5huKLI9P3Pua3nA5NeqDAhxCPa2jCYLbmGpuRpXEg5pxc0pp0dcPRcsqnBOYsGRo-yiUVe8RMKb26M/s1600/myphoto.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1196" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLm9wV0ZkduMtZneZuoUV7PBW4qf4V_8rtYEM69z_eKTKZqczvWlq5C9HFBAKEWR5huKLI9P3Pua3nA5NeqDAhxCPa2jCYLbmGpuRpXEg5pxc0pp0dcPRcsqnBOYsGRo-yiUVe8RMKb26M/s320/myphoto.jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"> <i><span style="font-size: large;">The Bobbin Case.</span></i></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;">Insert the bobbin as normal, with the unwinding thread opposite the leaf tension on the case. The leaf tension on my case needs special attention to make sure the thread goes under it properly. Then thread through the hole on the top.</span></span><i><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></i></span> </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-Zh8SrhskFdF1mflSauvkKHRZzXVm-6dubYSVYOElIzWNLnJw9XPRgaGsFu6m-YjbtycHY1k89JcqVgpbQIl0g8j_X4g7sUINUgXW-nknbthdVNy7WwxhRldX4rX3LTX-Di0l-H94UFub/s1600/IMG_5094.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1196" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-Zh8SrhskFdF1mflSauvkKHRZzXVm-6dubYSVYOElIzWNLnJw9XPRgaGsFu6m-YjbtycHY1k89JcqVgpbQIl0g8j_X4g7sUINUgXW-nknbthdVNy7WwxhRldX4rX3LTX-Di0l-H94UFub/s320/IMG_5094.JPG" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mine keeps doing this- just pull it under. Check yours.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg42XLRh-QXL9-DBBkoj9y2socZMVllWSwjf9i4p-wVmRv8eaj2_IhpceM6KxBKp0FMRgx3sMYP9WVA5XLm0qcFa4qbz7FokJzqYBRp1eZ0rZ_vGHR9FlVWIHZBKydzHQPRhpn2n18ed5T7/s1600/IMG_5095.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1196" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg42XLRh-QXL9-DBBkoj9y2socZMVllWSwjf9i4p-wVmRv8eaj2_IhpceM6KxBKp0FMRgx3sMYP9WVA5XLm0qcFa4qbz7FokJzqYBRp1eZ0rZ_vGHR9FlVWIHZBKydzHQPRhpn2n18ed5T7/s320/IMG_5095.JPG" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Proper threading of the Bobbin Tension.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI9G1HmgaYiAZD1bHrNA4rAzI9Wjhx4qH0PySZitKRrv1NpjxzbftKpeNrMSaSeGn4tLn-Py3Ey_dXQgKAjYgxdp4PzFZ-nwLLhjFNihsApTpdk_P94BHEEZ9npF-5f___N4lvcoigd72h/s1600/IMG_5096.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1196" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI9G1HmgaYiAZD1bHrNA4rAzI9Wjhx4qH0PySZitKRrv1NpjxzbftKpeNrMSaSeGn4tLn-Py3Ey_dXQgKAjYgxdp4PzFZ-nwLLhjFNihsApTpdk_P94BHEEZ9npF-5f___N4lvcoigd72h/s320/IMG_5096.JPG" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Through the hole and all done</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizyi9-MrGZv5XOSCWanQI19MpJQEuJoUCgmygR4EdSfjaFflIwYY0_LhP2JQ7tH2TYCp9JSnUDqgOf9fpgMmcpDS2ptW5HGBz2VcPJO1KsfkFvup354FQ7iJjdp0RgcyIGd8oNOKLO0UGA/s1600/IMG_5097.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1196" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizyi9-MrGZv5XOSCWanQI19MpJQEuJoUCgmygR4EdSfjaFflIwYY0_LhP2JQ7tH2TYCp9JSnUDqgOf9fpgMmcpDS2ptW5HGBz2VcPJO1KsfkFvup354FQ7iJjdp0RgcyIGd8oNOKLO0UGA/s320/IMG_5097.JPG" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bobbin inserted correctly, face down. Just push it back.</td></tr>
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<i><span style="font-size: large;">Sewing.</span></i><br />
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I am unaware of other models of the High Speed Lockstitch machine so please understand there may be differences in features in older or newer machines. Here is how to make some adjustments to the machine for sewing different types of fabric.<br />
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<i>Stitch Length</i>:<br />
Boy was this a mystery! Push in the metal button and turn the handwheel away from you until the numbers come into view. I am not sure exactly what they represent, other than a guess as stitche per inch as this is an American machine. Lower numbers for longer stitches, higher for smaller ones. I use 10 most for medium weight, 14 for light and 7 for denim.<br />
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Quick steps-<br />
1. Press in button and turn handwheel AWAY until it clicks.<br />
2.Turn again towards or away until you see the number you want.<br />
3. RELEASE.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg026Gjei91aXUMqakA5i0NqSbmmq70N6Wm4U8qBETxNPef1DZ_BU_xNsYbbXL8rFaR8mU4-C25LRp3Zh422Yuhto-m0U7GEWZvMLio7u4TCAh3_zLoSDNvlDtVDx0UUoRk_zUfyXqe9U8/s1600/IMG_5098.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1196" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg026Gjei91aXUMqakA5i0NqSbmmq70N6Wm4U8qBETxNPef1DZ_BU_xNsYbbXL8rFaR8mU4-C25LRp3Zh422Yuhto-m0U7GEWZvMLio7u4TCAh3_zLoSDNvlDtVDx0UUoRk_zUfyXqe9U8/s320/IMG_5098.JPG" width="239" /></a></div>
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<i>Presser Foot Pressure:</i><br />
Turn the screw at the top of the machine near the round thread take up. It goes downwards for more pressure, up for less. I was able to get a big variation in this, a great feature. With it up can do free motion sewing like for darning or quilting. No special darning attchment was needed. With high pressure did a great job on canvas. Start in the middle and then experiment from there.<br />
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<i>Winding a Bobbin:</i><br />
Set bobbin in the slot, it fits tightly. Wind as normal. It has a mechanical auto stop.<i> </i><br />
<i> </i> <br />
<i> </i><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">How do I sew on a machine that does not have reverse? I need to keep the stitches from unraveling!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;">This is a hassle, I know. Having used many old sewing machines, this issue has become part of my life. I do love auto reverse, back tack and the best of all AUTOMATIC THREAD CUTTERS but they are not what life is made of. Here is my work around for treadles and others that have no reverse. It works for most fabrics but the lightest ones. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;">1. Make a 2-3 stitches.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;">2. Tug slightly so the machine goes over them again. </span> </span><br />
3. At the end of the seam, with needle at the highest point raise presser foot.Move it back 2-3 stitches. 4. Place down again and sew over the edge.<br />
Here's a quick view of this maneuver:<br />
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If the video clip won"t play try this:</div>
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<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c825INX0mg0">WG Stitch locking demo.</a></div>
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There is also the tried and true method of simply turning your work around sewing a few stitches and turning again. I do this for very heavy fabrics like Sunbrella or very light such as Charmeuse.</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Things You Need For the Willcox and Gibbs Lockstitch</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Belts.</i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;">You will need a belt for the machine and one for the motor. I got an industrial treadle belt from eBay. Note that it is the thicker version, not the one for household machines. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;">My set up required a 22" and a 26" belt. They fasten with a metal clip. Often the leather will stretch a bit so expect to re-install maybe once more until it sets. Yes, it is a bother! To fasten sometimes I use carpet thread rather than a clip, easier to do.Unfortunely there is no V belts to add as there is no way to insert them in my case.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;">There is too much variation to say what lengh each machine will need, as it is based on what set up is used but estimates can be made easily. Use the old belt or a a marked string going around the path to estimate length before you order.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"> <i>Needles.</i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;">The Willcox and Gibbs High Speed Lockstitch requires a 75W Needle.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;">SET NEEDLE GROOVE TO THE LEFT.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;">Thankfully, needles are available but not too common. A clue to finding more is it is used by also by another industrial machine, the American Baster. Ebay has them but also here:</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://www.ctsusa.com/_e/Miscellaneous_American_EDG_BAST_APEX_Mansew_/product/2175W/American_Edge_Baster_75W.htm">http://www.ctsusa.com/_e/Miscellaneous_American_EDG_BAST_APEX_Mansew_/product/2175W/American_Edge_Baster_75W.htm</a></span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieN-VKyYFS57-F613whENPkSDqPu-8nig1_Zk0B6tVg1jv_07eynObQgbjLh-bp_FAzVimyEqU9AoAAeLb_N6vueqCYQg-ncaPlXsBNRgOnS5dwr2wY8vqd80OELwoXUWJ3s1LX2gdcPnZ/s1600/IMG_5108.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1196" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieN-VKyYFS57-F613whENPkSDqPu-8nig1_Zk0B6tVg1jv_07eynObQgbjLh-bp_FAzVimyEqU9AoAAeLb_N6vueqCYQg-ncaPlXsBNRgOnS5dwr2wY8vqd80OELwoXUWJ3s1LX2gdcPnZ/s320/IMG_5108.JPG" width="239" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"> The numbering system for Willcox Gibbs needles are by single digits. 2-7 are what the machine takes. My general guide to what to use for what is this:</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;">#2 Light </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;">#3 Medium </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;">#4 Heavier </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;">#6 Heavy and Coated </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;">#7 *&% Heavy </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;">The #7 is the max it can handle, and for me it was the outdoor fabric Sunbrella with 4 layers. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Presser Feet and Attachments.</i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;">The Willcox and Gibbs has a unique presser foot system. This make the foot attachments very rare and hard to find. I found some here with the help of the owner, Ms. Howes.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://helenhowes-sewingmachines.co.uk/">http://helenhowes-sewingmachines.co.uk/</a> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;">There is some variation of of the shank height for some presser feet, so in time changes occurred. My machine takes the lower shank ones.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPOK0-t7HfFCG-CAiM57CBGG9bEk0E0zaKWnSO8sgS5zXOWXlrHH9WpwmjW2nGTZefpiaR9z9EJp3GobUdczzQZp4F93p4Nom4u5klBgzmLcOSYCaTXhtgL5lh4cy25GdypqgtW0CQEHpW/s1600/IMG_5104.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1196" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPOK0-t7HfFCG-CAiM57CBGG9bEk0E0zaKWnSO8sgS5zXOWXlrHH9WpwmjW2nGTZefpiaR9z9EJp3GobUdczzQZp4F93p4Nom4u5klBgzmLcOSYCaTXhtgL5lh4cy25GdypqgtW0CQEHpW/s320/IMG_5104.JPG" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Very slight variation in shank height.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;">The Willcox and Gibbs also seems to be able to take industrial attachment like binders, as there is a place on the bed for the screws. I have a binder that came with it but no bed screw. Modern ones ar too long but can be cut to fit. These binders are fantastic for edgings so worth trying to find a solution as to be able to use them. </span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKwwQQhSKzLqh6QLDlZOG_kycfD0UnaBqNCiVRL2CGJozyXWe259DDj7fbHZHaxMJZvAV0DHrVTUJra5nwsS_9Zwm-lt_CUAi75La2-wuO4maWklbrr6ewjk0RlHn8GCUDGX9bd_KuaDgl/s1600/IMG_5107.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1196" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKwwQQhSKzLqh6QLDlZOG_kycfD0UnaBqNCiVRL2CGJozyXWe259DDj7fbHZHaxMJZvAV0DHrVTUJra5nwsS_9Zwm-lt_CUAi75La2-wuO4maWklbrr6ewjk0RlHn8GCUDGX9bd_KuaDgl/s320/IMG_5107.JPG" width="239" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Motor and Table Set Up.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;">There are many variations to motors for machines like this. I will leave that topic to others but will show mine as a possible research for others. The motor that came with this is a General Electric 1/2 HP. It was rewired at some point recently. The Thread spool stand, guard and table are a set by Willcox and Gibbs. </span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJo6n1rB2nom-1rZf5355C7TSLWmiXOK7XxKJ7l7lVKdQ-2xkHH9fbg4YbapdOS450s7ROL_a2NwmHGWqGOG_eEnYOmu2SXpwtIo6yWm5mLnMao1Dyfr6C6rysHTGKMZrxOXZqtWnhdK_D/s1600/IMG_1857.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJo6n1rB2nom-1rZf5355C7TSLWmiXOK7XxKJ7l7lVKdQ-2xkHH9fbg4YbapdOS450s7ROL_a2NwmHGWqGOG_eEnYOmu2SXpwtIo6yWm5mLnMao1Dyfr6C6rysHTGKMZrxOXZqtWnhdK_D/s320/IMG_1857.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3-IdxgNPZCrlpPfyGDefKMSVSe9nbUNk3C6-w0bzdBbmPfOmsDajiJauFx2DvM3HtjAfFKaLoJ-gco3an7jsZu1I3624MATATrdj2Cco0D4Rqe9a_xRpSviEgStdDBeNZ5vOhmB0zAvIM/s1600/IMG_1858.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3-IdxgNPZCrlpPfyGDefKMSVSe9nbUNk3C6-w0bzdBbmPfOmsDajiJauFx2DvM3HtjAfFKaLoJ-gco3an7jsZu1I3624MATATrdj2Cco0D4Rqe9a_xRpSviEgStdDBeNZ5vOhmB0zAvIM/s320/IMG_1858.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkAH0wH7BzQtFza_MqMAuu8L2YuxRxQ9y8T8BMv8o-JauieGQ7qsTUJ-M-MXjg_rhPkcW9bO51U93z6_NnYmcivAnTt1h1B5RRZIA20PDzs26MVVpx-FSmYzxZDNtLUpy3__GUGM5tGYkX/s1600/IMG_5085.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1196" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkAH0wH7BzQtFza_MqMAuu8L2YuxRxQ9y8T8BMv8o-JauieGQ7qsTUJ-M-MXjg_rhPkcW9bO51U93z6_NnYmcivAnTt1h1B5RRZIA20PDzs26MVVpx-FSmYzxZDNtLUpy3__GUGM5tGYkX/s320/IMG_5085.JPG" width="239" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;">The light is probably part of the set up as well and made by Bryant. This articulated light has been re-wired and is easy to use and just super cool looking too.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZq3QtJvznIMcTFHNkqZ25Ao-zJ_qH9rshMEA7HjfcezMp2KTpovnjhmTWLtdURLyP9U5SoKuiS0-tgcN8s45LzVA1aS4ENElg8LvFWID7NXeTMsXzXVC2BMf7Vh7LAwl5Do-CHLHiG2zL/s1600/IMG_5120.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1196" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZq3QtJvznIMcTFHNkqZ25Ao-zJ_qH9rshMEA7HjfcezMp2KTpovnjhmTWLtdURLyP9U5SoKuiS0-tgcN8s45LzVA1aS4ENElg8LvFWID7NXeTMsXzXVC2BMf7Vh7LAwl5Do-CHLHiG2zL/s320/IMG_5120.JPG" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bryant Lamp</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i> </i> And so there is enough information to begin some serious sewing with this American industrial sewing machine classic. My first attemps at sewing with this were frustrating, and I was close to giving up due ot tangled thread and broken needles. I then did some "trial and error" plus experiemntation to come up with a little help for future operators. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"> It is my sincere hope that such information will assist any person who comes across one of these so as to keep it and not let it become destroyed as so many do. </span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidyQUXx2VkYM5-4cbdQdgGbcbUtaZHteDLX35VhOvHXI8qVn6tfxA4QFe5CVpDOsKm2C1OJJnvayTvYuLLmcS2-QZwaV0-jl2xiu1BI4tevN6W-pGunI28uHrrqxnzkBV6QtskbwDFcpGM/s1600/IMG_1842.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidyQUXx2VkYM5-4cbdQdgGbcbUtaZHteDLX35VhOvHXI8qVn6tfxA4QFe5CVpDOsKm2C1OJJnvayTvYuLLmcS2-QZwaV0-jl2xiu1BI4tevN6W-pGunI28uHrrqxnzkBV6QtskbwDFcpGM/s320/IMG_1842.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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yarndivahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10132680063667909853noreply@blogger.com46tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7714166932152347946.post-51672611370230668472017-01-20T22:42:00.000-08:002017-02-20T19:42:22.027-08:00The Bell Portable Sewing Machine<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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This little sewing machine is smaller than a new baby. I have seen these on occasion so not particularly rare an item, but never succumbed to the siren song of bringing one home until now. It seemed impossible that it would work in any way other than as a toy. Do they work? Hard to imagine as it is the same size as my scissors.<br />
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This machine was made in the late 50's by the Bell company in Pennsylvania USA. There is a good bit of history on the company on the pages of Needlebar.org, a terrific resource for those who love vintage sewing machines.<br />
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http://needlebar.org/cm/displayimage.php?pid=8883<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh6XcKa9FFhDoFywnt6h8_xLuzSJIWJuhDA-L0FCNNbLVLzE8nMR9KneEVzmyIGKi_ASQx_oD8-QDaBPh2bO7zApEVgrBg0nDe3WRKcSxTpkcXyzwWcfd2imKZ3Re0pcWeERr_K-6vD9YG/s1600/IMG_4730.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh6XcKa9FFhDoFywnt6h8_xLuzSJIWJuhDA-L0FCNNbLVLzE8nMR9KneEVzmyIGKi_ASQx_oD8-QDaBPh2bO7zApEVgrBg0nDe3WRKcSxTpkcXyzwWcfd2imKZ3Re0pcWeERr_K-6vD9YG/s320/IMG_4730.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Does it Work?</span><br />
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The first question was nearly answered by just opening the case box the sewing machine came in. The attachment set is impressive. The original set is still in the case. High quality low shank accessories that cover just about every thing you could ever need in any size machine. A bit of oil, thread and a new needle all in place for a test start. It does indeed sew but very very slowly. Noisy too! Where is the hand wheel? After a time of trial and error it has improved. Here's how.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Operator Manual</span><br />
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This sewing machine is is definitely not your usual set up. I suggest refering to a manual to help operate it properly. Here are a few sources:</div>
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Printed and digital formsavailable.</div>
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<a href="http://pages.sewing-machine-manuals.com/173/PictPage/1922477053.html">http://pages.sewing-machine-manuals.com/173/PictPage/1922477053.html</a></div>
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Follow the instructions for the source.</div>
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<a href="http://ismacs.net/free-sewing-machine-manuals-list.html">http://ismacs.net/free-sewing-machine-manuals-list.html</a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Oil?</span><br />
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The Bell Portable was originally designed to be lubricated for life. The material apprears to be a graphite type lubricant. Now it has been around 60 years now and I think that is a little past the working life of that stuff. My machine was very very dry and barely turned. Because of this I went against the manual instructions and oiled it all over. Next......it would not work!AAArrgggh. Panic turned to calm when th next day it was fine and worked so much better. I could now see how to turn the hand wheel with my fingers, before it was frozen. Same with the bobbin winder. My suggestion is to go ahead and oil it on every moving part with Tri-Flow synthetic oil or sewing machine oil.<br />
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Because this was not made for regular oiling, it is a pain to do it now. I removed the light bulb cover witha small screw driver to pry off at the needle bar. Next oil the joints in th presser bar area and then turn it over and open the bottom to oil there. Pretty easy to turn it upside down. Try that with an old full sized machine!<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Bobbins </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf0g2IJoGyedqg4Prh4ebUdovwLAWvzSPjA6uYg1QO16n0jtXGgmiDOUQglVnTEdiVW0EZptbVO3jLBlAXOIA8COG42sBtjzfgIPcgUWGOy42tWYNGt2M5i5oZg6gP2eopwrh0nzMj22Py/s1600/FullSizeRender.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf0g2IJoGyedqg4Prh4ebUdovwLAWvzSPjA6uYg1QO16n0jtXGgmiDOUQglVnTEdiVW0EZptbVO3jLBlAXOIA8COG42sBtjzfgIPcgUWGOy42tWYNGt2M5i5oZg6gP2eopwrh0nzMj22Py/s320/FullSizeRender.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Right away I noticed the bobbin was very much like the ones used for the Singer 29k. I wrote about one here on this blog and the two machines are so different except for this. To see if they were indeed the same I tried the bobbins and and case in the little Bell. What I found can be helpful to anyone who is searching for replacements. The bobbins are compatible but the case was not. The case was from a very old machine and possibly a case from a later model 29 would be OK but for me it was only able to sew for a few stitches and then would stop.<br />
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The Bell came with a plastic bobbin but the metal seems fine. <br />
A source:<br />
A great dealer for parts like this.<br />
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/SINGER-29-29K-29K71-29K73-SMALL-BOBBINS-8604-/122269742275?var=&hash=item626cb2089a<br />
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The process of addding the bobbin to the case is a little different. I have done this before with my 29 but for those who have not done it efore it is a little confusing. To help, here are a few images to add ot the manual description.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAkB1duPEQiGnpMgM8yLgTJaqlvbtBPtr3lZUgY4Ken5RWPB10txJ_9nCDciEAP3cz2wOWPhP4KipwOp_E1EhIZK7BUnwJqRUqYYAs7mcpukHbhhYXI3XMdK200O8F9od5JE-TTZwKoG4B/s1600/IMG_4719.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAkB1duPEQiGnpMgM8yLgTJaqlvbtBPtr3lZUgY4Ken5RWPB10txJ_9nCDciEAP3cz2wOWPhP4KipwOp_E1EhIZK7BUnwJqRUqYYAs7mcpukHbhhYXI3XMdK200O8F9od5JE-TTZwKoG4B/s320/IMG_4719.JPG" width="239" /></a></div>
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1. Note case spring, hold your finger there. Place the wound bobbin into the case so it sets in, case side with the edge down. It winds off just as with any other machine, counter, so place the bobbin in so it comes off correctly. Let the end go through the opening.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimWrgpE_hoYSFzUOOyV2A0o8m3xrolA4mVMDHSIHYStJxWC1K3H2UxYE0UkTt8TDmrOr1gXrF6h1LYoQ2DVAXY59Z3d8AH-vMQ6wdZMbZ70vEjuGIhHQJEZhJzN0PZJU14TmXkbJE6hMM1/s1600/IMG_4721.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimWrgpE_hoYSFzUOOyV2A0o8m3xrolA4mVMDHSIHYStJxWC1K3H2UxYE0UkTt8TDmrOr1gXrF6h1LYoQ2DVAXY59Z3d8AH-vMQ6wdZMbZ70vEjuGIhHQJEZhJzN0PZJU14TmXkbJE6hMM1/s320/IMG_4721.JPG" width="239" /></a></div>
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Pull the thread up and under the leaf tension. Thread it through the hole in the case. It is not needed but I find it helpful to also thread the end through the hole in the needle plate as well as it is so slow to bring up the thread as normally you can save some time here.<br />
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Set into the hook area. Easy to fit it like a puzzle piece. The manual shows a magnet to remove the case, great idea.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">More Technical Information</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuASPyVlXB8FKdkhtzdWNWiDStWRgRUkS7tQ-p4bKWgQV9buUKBrGRTIUX6RLKrNHbhbgaC0HyKr1YLgzHT4gdghc2xUxmDZJR6sugMNg-Vj3zCGsjTB8USlhFbX4B_axQH27uBk1Nlgca/s1600/IMG_4723.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuASPyVlXB8FKdkhtzdWNWiDStWRgRUkS7tQ-p4bKWgQV9buUKBrGRTIUX6RLKrNHbhbgaC0HyKr1YLgzHT4gdghc2xUxmDZJR6sugMNg-Vj3zCGsjTB8USlhFbX4B_axQH27uBk1Nlgca/s320/IMG_4723.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The Bell is a low shank machine so many modern attachments will fit on this so if you find a machine missing it's set, no worries. It takes a 15x1 needle and uses regular thread so no fuss there either. The tension is a bit tight. To release the fabric from he machine, raise the presser foot and needle then open the tension discs by hand as shown when pullng away. The release of tension is not automatic.<br />
The manual shows the threading but here is a view as well.<br />
1. Under the discs<br />
2. Up and over the spring<br />
3. Through the coil<br />
4. Take up lever<br />
5. Presser bar guide<br />
6. Needle Right to Left.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Stitching</span><br />
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The little Bell does a great job here. Very slow, with a strang hang time and quite a bit of noise but by golly it makes a good stitch. If it had a hand wheel it would be great. The adjustment lever on this machine is broken but I am able to adjust by gently inserting a screw driver sideways and moving it one way or another. This seems to be a common problem. Be careful to not move the broken mechanism to either end, you may have a bit of trouble getting it back!<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">The Case</span><br />
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The Bell Portable comes with a very cool case. Everything has a place. The power cord wraps perfectly to fit as does the accessories set. There is a box with a mounting bracket for a free arm capability. There is metal base to make a sewing table with the case, the machine sets right into the middle. My machine was missing a rubber type base but I made a small pad with neoprene. The reason is to make it sit high enough in the metal frame. This too seems to be common and easy to fix.<br />
All the parts fit perfectly together for travel. The combined weight with case and machine it weighs about 8 pounds!<br />
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The sewing table all set up.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">A True Portable.</span><br />
My verdict. This sewing machine is not easy to use. Probably won't be doing miles of yardage on this baby. Repairs on the road? Yes. Quick sewing not at home, sure. I do some of this for some residents at a care home. Perfect.<br />
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It does the one thing so many have tried to do before and since. It is truly portable. It truly sews too. That is really something!yarndivahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10132680063667909853noreply@blogger.com23tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7714166932152347946.post-21539275712848663812016-02-15T18:12:00.001-08:002016-02-15T18:14:27.360-08:00The Singer 12 Sewing Machine and How to Use It<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbPOpsjKmX41Jdfjf-_3fEYTj90a0-6UN7O3GJtqz3qg6U9uUPlIx4dtnRCC9DgTuGNQ39qrS8rOi5XIQ59KFWId_VDEpetGN3eVRt0j5T7UEScRf2LbIaNcXqpLPGWpAsjJ0UPDNeMVn1/s2048/Photo%25252020160215180958171.jpg" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbPOpsjKmX41Jdfjf-_3fEYTj90a0-6UN7O3GJtqz3qg6U9uUPlIx4dtnRCC9DgTuGNQ39qrS8rOi5XIQ59KFWId_VDEpetGN3eVRt0j5T7UEScRf2LbIaNcXqpLPGWpAsjJ0UPDNeMVn1/s500/Photo%25252020160215180958171.jpg" id="blogsy-1455588757940.7815" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="373"></a></div><div class="separator" style="text-align: center; clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwODjRqS8Ng1vpH8tVkA7CJRL6d2woPISvUC6Ahv8wS4ZU6odROSoTlcc2U79sJsgYYiw0LynbEwBGj8NJwXVkdlw_Xi_io-2_R2s0_W518q01aiAejwbMI1yhbhrEKKKZs9jcHDWaK4yD/s2048/Photo%25252020160215180958425.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwODjRqS8Ng1vpH8tVkA7CJRL6d2woPISvUC6Ahv8wS4ZU6odROSoTlcc2U79sJsgYYiw0LynbEwBGj8NJwXVkdlw_Xi_io-2_R2s0_W518q01aiAejwbMI1yhbhrEKKKZs9jcHDWaK4yD/s500/Photo%25252020160215180958425.jpg" id="blogsy-1455588757941.3533" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="373"></a></div><p>A little history on this particular machine and then some help on how to use this type of model for those who might be stopping by needing help. It's story is like so many others. This tiny 1884 Singer 12 came to me in desperate condition. It had been in a shed, covered with boxes. The cabinet had been painted white with gold trim in the past. Even the irons were painted. Still, I could see it was indeed a fairly old machine that was complete and worth saving</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIvptIojaCg6NFh482DU3aeI7qdHojd2yxzuAA1c4UTIf1qedxcqKfIGWjWQgbyCsvJ4a2sv67qh__kvux1dzlJQ86DMicxz-xEaJGo3_RxiCicdtRoIHPZi57Q32oaVg1l4vReKQBPTJ7/s1933/Photo%25252020160215180958723.jpg" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIvptIojaCg6NFh482DU3aeI7qdHojd2yxzuAA1c4UTIf1qedxcqKfIGWjWQgbyCsvJ4a2sv67qh__kvux1dzlJQ86DMicxz-xEaJGo3_RxiCicdtRoIHPZi57Q32oaVg1l4vReKQBPTJ7/s500/Photo%25252020160215180958723.jpg" id="blogsy-1455588757927.776" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="500"></a></div><p> The machine was taken out, paint was removed. After paint removal the wood was oiled, irons were then repainted the original black. When the machine was replaced, it got a little adjustment. That included cleaning with sewing machine oil, some new needles, TriFlow lubrication, gear grease and a new treadle belt. Not much, really. Very little was needed to make this one work again. It was used quite a bit in it's time and well cared for. The wear is in places that many years of fabric and hands passed over, as mine do now.</p><div class="separator" style="text-align: center; clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGwE3KuaypjAg0YmmShn2AyKXZ_HoPAs5aDo_tRJ5_CuUED7fcIs6g5Wdm4iF5hpgKYvZIR_2wYKMoH8rU0VGW2NMIqT9KG-FHxWe6TXiU6UoPFFwvZyuATz6xXifFF9mYtlDx65_UPxz1/s2048/Photo%25252020160215180958972.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGwE3KuaypjAg0YmmShn2AyKXZ_HoPAs5aDo_tRJ5_CuUED7fcIs6g5Wdm4iF5hpgKYvZIR_2wYKMoH8rU0VGW2NMIqT9KG-FHxWe6TXiU6UoPFFwvZyuATz6xXifFF9mYtlDx65_UPxz1/s500/Photo%25252020160215180958972.jpg" id="blogsy-1455588757972.5615" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="373"></a></div><p> The Singer 12 here was made in 1884. The first model 12 also known as the "New Family" was made in the 1860's continuing for many years. The decal and designs for these are often very spectacular in true Victorian fashion with colorful patterns and mother of pearl inserts. Mine is a bit plain but still a fairly unusual decal pattern that is not seen often. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg93QlsVgIXJ4rEwNo0G_q4abmQu1wYzFxewCXypFP5XVtvOCKn9xmhWCCXFhMrlR-R9RlAbc98Y_Ax_YSZ7zbWd66qliboFE7DoxW4tc6ObgApaFW2FnoS0wcgXauGfyJnttnuGDvD3Ou_/s800/Photo%25252020160215180959116.jpg" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg93QlsVgIXJ4rEwNo0G_q4abmQu1wYzFxewCXypFP5XVtvOCKn9xmhWCCXFhMrlR-R9RlAbc98Y_Ax_YSZ7zbWd66qliboFE7DoxW4tc6ObgApaFW2FnoS0wcgXauGfyJnttnuGDvD3Ou_/s500/Photo%25252020160215180959116.jpg" id="blogsy-1455588757927.9941" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="314"></a></div><p style="text-align: center;"> </p><div class="separator" style="text-align: center; clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguGpx97lni7MU_hRQPEJzMTfvtcvtE_S_sDTCAXkSwhWKyuzRu9zt2mF9CR4aNHSXJH9veQBMIV8eMXkl3GJAVEwZXxGJtcx9heJWgT3hNFfFSapoCyEPvHR9vfv6oQ3sVZEc4UTTMIi9_/s518/Photo%25252020160215180959177.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguGpx97lni7MU_hRQPEJzMTfvtcvtE_S_sDTCAXkSwhWKyuzRu9zt2mF9CR4aNHSXJH9veQBMIV8eMXkl3GJAVEwZXxGJtcx9heJWgT3hNFfFSapoCyEPvHR9vfv6oQ3sVZEc4UTTMIi9_/s500/Photo%25252020160215180959177.jpg" id="blogsy-1455588757950.0923" class="alignnone" alt="" width="300" height="518"></a></div><p> The machines came with a very practical set of attachments, of which I was lucky to have found in the cabinet drawer, along with the original hardware. So far I have not used them yet and am not completely sure what some are! Other parts are nearly unchaged to our times, such as the ruffler which is so beautiful on it's own.</p><p style="text-align: center;"> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFFZVaBRImShPQmbLFYkDdjh6BFC4xL5yPC-r_GIWYt1CumZmDOOq4Mu2UfMI_oD0QJ3kSjVZfkZn9UgKb78eYPlmUk-esEAmXojsQZRmHZBeqH19qKLKpoLbqTwKQiKz1DBbEKEMEdb9Y/s2048/Photo%25252020160215180959448.jpg" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFFZVaBRImShPQmbLFYkDdjh6BFC4xL5yPC-r_GIWYt1CumZmDOOq4Mu2UfMI_oD0QJ3kSjVZfkZn9UgKb78eYPlmUk-esEAmXojsQZRmHZBeqH19qKLKpoLbqTwKQiKz1DBbEKEMEdb9Y/s500/Photo%25252020160215180959448.jpg" id="blogsy-1455588757971.0396" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="373"></a></div><p><font size="6">Sewing with the Singer 12</font></p><p><font size="6"><br></font></p><blockquote></blockquote><p><a href="http://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/manuals/singer-12k-manual.pdf" target="_blank"></a><a href="http://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/manuals/singer-12k-manual.pdf" target="_blank"></a><a href="http://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/manuals/singer-12k-manual.pdf" target="_blank"></a></p><p> <a href="http://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/manuals/singer-12k-manual.pdf">http://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/manuals/singer-12k-manual.pdf</a></p><p>A manual is needed. This one is from the International Sewing Machine Collectors Society. I recommend a visit to their site, and if you have a machine like this to join them. So much useful information!</p><p>I have been able to use this right away but must warn new owners operating this model is a bit different and can be a frustrating. It does take a bit of practice to get it all just right. I wrote on this site about my adventures with my other one, a handcrank. <a href="http://silkmothsewing.blogspot.com/search/label/Singer%2012">http://silkmothsewing.blogspot.com/search/label/Singer%2012</a></p><p>Here are the areas that anyone first trying one out might want to review:</p><p><font size="5">The Needle</font></p><p>The need required it is a 12x1 needle. There have been suggestions as to what else will work in place of this now extinct type but I have been able to find them so have not explored this further. My source is <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/TreadleLady" target="_blank">Vintage sewing machines treadle or hand crank by TreadleLady</a></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRWXK3umn1crXQPBZ3lSnuyecA7xxJ0ydf7ISEJQKJkyjiE8qZHeDfXSefc3jWWf5nrcWGWx4Y1qkEci9FJdmnYVxW0GnE25Idd9neExNnCByLpj7sv7lkoblQeHaUeLAtWQawqq11zvtn/s2048/Photo%25252020160215180959827.jpg" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRWXK3umn1crXQPBZ3lSnuyecA7xxJ0ydf7ISEJQKJkyjiE8qZHeDfXSefc3jWWf5nrcWGWx4Y1qkEci9FJdmnYVxW0GnE25Idd9neExNnCByLpj7sv7lkoblQeHaUeLAtWQawqq11zvtn/s500/Photo%25252020160215180959827.jpg" id="blogsy-1455588757927.4558" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="669"></a></div><p>*Setting the needle: This is going to be a trial and error process at first. Read the manual. The setting is described well but here it is in a nutshell -The needle groove goes in front. Thread is front to back.</p><p>How far the needle goes into the needle shaft is variable. On my machine here the top is exactly even with the clamp. On my other it sticks out about 1/8". Try it out, very slowly, until the needle doesn't hit the bobbin shuttle and will pick up thread.</p><p><font size="5">The Bobbin</font></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtNfCGImS1KXmFsWLlPk9_Kvk0kGeqcoZZpQtkIZlp58BtS0CWSroC0UKMZ_ri9gxxXJfhCUmngVPD38TcPbd0dZ8YjLDs76DI5I7gKBNN3S-BuCi2EIMSM42wN1CxnAjTlescKb42vGBb/s1936/Photo%25252020160215181000185.jpg" target="_blank" style=""><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtNfCGImS1KXmFsWLlPk9_Kvk0kGeqcoZZpQtkIZlp58BtS0CWSroC0UKMZ_ri9gxxXJfhCUmngVPD38TcPbd0dZ8YjLDs76DI5I7gKBNN3S-BuCi2EIMSM42wN1CxnAjTlescKb42vGBb/s500/Photo%25252020160215181000185.jpg" id="blogsy-1455588757899.5127" class="alignnone" alt="" width="500" height="500"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: none;"> </div><p> </p><p>Wrap the thread a few times to get started. The end fits all the way into the winder. By the way mine was completely frozen and needed to be oiled a lot. The tire part pulls back to allow the bobbin to fit for winding.</p><p>On many machine there is a metal piece that the thread passes throughto wind the bobbin. There is not one here. Maybe there was, and it is missing but no matter this is quite simple to do by hand to get an even treading. I do this:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhybauFOed2mfuFvFFoqeTz-lAPzf1p2okuQ9bB-lPKU-Jw_kHGMUIldv0ucozW3v-5F3HYelRtuB-HTOzE9aiXjdUWDwCYZQD_bQGBhi9nu7Ukpv6-v3BtECJ0VDYI92WBOrPysKaOWPcH/s2048/Photo%25252020160215181000498.jpg" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhybauFOed2mfuFvFFoqeTz-lAPzf1p2okuQ9bB-lPKU-Jw_kHGMUIldv0ucozW3v-5F3HYelRtuB-HTOzE9aiXjdUWDwCYZQD_bQGBhi9nu7Ukpv6-v3BtECJ0VDYI92WBOrPysKaOWPcH/s500/Photo%25252020160215181000498.jpg" id="blogsy-1455588757902.6965" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="373"></a></div><p><font size="5">The Shuttle</font></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCSoOXQi27Wb1sTaa_D0tT6R7TDB3izmImAyTBettE1E2v3SGrMQoeqiSUPsgoc2qp49Fb5MKLt2K4_f4C10WeP-OT6G4UreZDF9v185ipRSdfKfjKTMpjyxv3jPWUhY0t6znihAU9WID9/s2048/Photo%25252020160215181000799.jpg" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCSoOXQi27Wb1sTaa_D0tT6R7TDB3izmImAyTBettE1E2v3SGrMQoeqiSUPsgoc2qp49Fb5MKLt2K4_f4C10WeP-OT6G4UreZDF9v185ipRSdfKfjKTMpjyxv3jPWUhY0t6znihAU9WID9/s500/Photo%25252020160215181000799.jpg" id="blogsy-1455588757906.3774" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="669"></a></div><p>The bobbins for the Singer 12 are much like a weaving shuttle. The shape is a bit like the later Singer 27 but with an essential difference- the thread tension is created by looping trough the side , over and through again the holes in the shuttle body then through the leaf. My first attempts at this were frustrating, so please be patient with yourself. Once you do it a few times it will work, amazingly. I found bobbin tension for ordinary poly/cotton thread was the second hole as shown. With different thread you may with to try it differently. Yeah, it's weird but it works great.</p><p> Now it is just set into the carrier and go. The transverse slide plate should move as shown above. My other Singer 12 had problems here and maybe some of you might as well. It was frozen closed from rust. If necessary, the shuttle can go in from the other side too, just get one slide plate free.</p><p><font size="5">Making Adjustments</font></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEaG3r07bBN0rKTbKPoZhzD2PkelremR7W6UNo_OkOnUsVSg3QyE47c-PfcpaBG9ucOV_p-WwDmAwf6Hpnrfe54YyZ0O4Nde9hHlG88k_hFf86OZ0pWaaiFupUOjUlVDZhM11M3eXuWJp5/s2048/Photo%25252020160215181001144.jpg" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEaG3r07bBN0rKTbKPoZhzD2PkelremR7W6UNo_OkOnUsVSg3QyE47c-PfcpaBG9ucOV_p-WwDmAwf6Hpnrfe54YyZ0O4Nde9hHlG88k_hFf86OZ0pWaaiFupUOjUlVDZhM11M3eXuWJp5/s500/Photo%25252020160215181001144.jpg" id="blogsy-1455588757927.849" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="669"></a></div><p> </p><p>Pretty strait forward adjustments for the Singer 12. The main difference is that they are knobs on top rather than side adjustments with numbers. Not much is needed to get results so just experiment. Stitch lengh is often frozen up for older machines like this so more oil and maybe even try heat (I use a blow dryer) to free it up. Mine took a long time to move and is still tight! I do not recommend taking apart the faceplate unless there is a reason. The interior parts will all fall out. It is not assembled like a Singer 27 or 127. That is a later post, but be forewarned!</p><p><font size="5">The Belt</font></p><p><font size="4">I like to use rubber belting for my treadle so as to be able to get it on and off easy. Leather is good too and is available widely. If anyone here is unfamiliar with putting on a new belt, here is a great source for help on all things treadle with a section on belts.</font></p><p><a href="http://www.treadleon.net/sewingmachineshop/treadles/installingtreadlebelt.html">http://www.treadleon.net/sewingmachineshop/treadles/installingtreadlebelt.html</a><font size="4"><br></font></p><p><a href="http://machinemakeover.ecrater.com/p/671210/heavy-duty-rubber-treadle-sewing">http://machinemakeover.ecrater.com/p/671210/heavy-duty-rubber-treadle-sewing</a><font size="5"><br></font></p><p><a href="http://shop.sew-classic.com/Belt-Treadle-universal-3-16-diameter-lighter-color-804M.htm">http://shop.sew-classic.com/Belt-Treadle-universal-3-16-diameter-lighter-color-804M.htm</a><br></p><p><font size="5">Sewing</font></p><p>Not much is needed to know how to do the actual sewing other than one big difference for a modern sewing operator. The tension discs do not release when the presser foot is lifted. It may be just my machines but neither of mine do this. Not a big deal but it will become a new habit to pull up the top tension disc when removing the work. The needle needs to be in the highest position to let the thread go as with other lockstitch machines. </p><p>So small a machine yet it can sew some heavy work. My guess is because it has very simple yet powerful gears inside. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrrY_8mZRJsjKtPlDDb7a_fe1xydxFnsUWN9M1xKN0wONtWnv1ZXpad3bGXTQ2yoN5H8s1rkXHuvauZsjFycAcTsNFCnaGoYnBHtjzkvlLqVDDZEMi76e20Y9_BKHAXlqmcFeuhrTynqsb/s1936/Photo%25252020160215181001513.jpg" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrrY_8mZRJsjKtPlDDb7a_fe1xydxFnsUWN9M1xKN0wONtWnv1ZXpad3bGXTQ2yoN5H8s1rkXHuvauZsjFycAcTsNFCnaGoYnBHtjzkvlLqVDDZEMi76e20Y9_BKHAXlqmcFeuhrTynqsb/s500/Photo%25252020160215181001513.jpg" id="blogsy-1455588757967.3855" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="500"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJOUUqSjLnMtqHFTKuuvc9p6WgrRy1KVbmc588jqh37jPDmx5tj9JoWc5srpCzPVFNy4b13vMNSkfJpnSEMQfkrV4emaR41L_URtm89GYvVymJKiVoYIVvwqXAFw1LnNDi8wSvOidDrCZD/s2048/Photo%25252020160215181001835.jpg" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJOUUqSjLnMtqHFTKuuvc9p6WgrRy1KVbmc588jqh37jPDmx5tj9JoWc5srpCzPVFNy4b13vMNSkfJpnSEMQfkrV4emaR41L_URtm89GYvVymJKiVoYIVvwqXAFw1LnNDi8wSvOidDrCZD/s500/Photo%25252020160215181001835.jpg" id="blogsy-1455588757960.9358" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="373"></a> </div><div class="separator" style="text-align: left; clear: both;">After a bit of work and practice, this has become a really great machine to use. Here is her first major project in many years, done easily with good tension and accuracy. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikj9TR4dc-OHUUkcS_NlDO9ddXRHPVT98AErXWYR3abTENP5ni_WxEP96lU_xJVSFo7LcRKxA-lcbwtYJcZRfO9lO71eiJ1ZlJV1HURwYjF_2BhFlHMbMLYsfJctDN66X9BII_pZGn_-h_/s2048/Photo%25252020160215181002208.jpg" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikj9TR4dc-OHUUkcS_NlDO9ddXRHPVT98AErXWYR3abTENP5ni_WxEP96lU_xJVSFo7LcRKxA-lcbwtYJcZRfO9lO71eiJ1ZlJV1HURwYjF_2BhFlHMbMLYsfJctDN66X9BII_pZGn_-h_/s500/Photo%25252020160215181002208.jpg" id="blogsy-1455588757976.2659" class="aligncenter" width="500" height="669" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="text-align: left; clear: both;"> </div><p> </p><div style="text-align: right; font-size: small; clear: both;" id="blogsy_footer"><a href="http://blogsyapp.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://blogsyapp.com/images/blogsy_footer_icon.png" alt="Posted with Blogsy" style="vertical-align: middle; margin-right: 5px;" width="20" height="20" />Posted with Blogsy</a></div>yarndivahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10132680063667909853noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7714166932152347946.post-44875585027757389952012-05-26T11:31:00.000-07:002014-10-16T20:59:15.161-07:00The Leviathan, Singer's 29 - 4<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjETMjSd44j7vLxU0Qn3kpSTBm5_N8hqAG0M6XPqkyQqRANCkutRksVIeIlJ-EBy6xHjc1Kv_x-C2egER_Yqnp9p3qvySvEkaoGKLCECQM2Dt15Uheo7ktgcsp1TfWwiGKace_XYtkiKdKi/s1600/IMG_0696.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjETMjSd44j7vLxU0Qn3kpSTBm5_N8hqAG0M6XPqkyQqRANCkutRksVIeIlJ-EBy6xHjc1Kv_x-C2egER_Yqnp9p3qvySvEkaoGKLCECQM2Dt15Uheo7ktgcsp1TfWwiGKace_XYtkiKdKi/s320/IMG_0696.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1905 Singer 29K-4</td></tr>
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It is called many things such as the boot patcher, the cobbler, the leatherworker or the harness stitcher. I call it the Leviathan after the large biblical sea monster. The model number is 29-4 or 29K with this particular one being made in 1905. They were in production earlier and later with modifications and model number changes. Even today, in the shop I am in during the week has two similar (though much more modern and electric) machines machines made by Consew and Brother. Perhaps this huge thing could be useful to me? Would it even work right? Hmmm.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirdlhFpGuN42H0sjrwMpDNzgRdBYpPzkp4MCMPvbKiX86CDiDtztKEAbphSUmluEhsBoEjwacxsZT46K9c6zVgi9b2T-x7icX0Io4o1ygXfagpAOOQqyZWUVeSPqw6phnCYnHJjBRA28vy/s1600/250px-Destruction_of_Leviathan.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirdlhFpGuN42H0sjrwMpDNzgRdBYpPzkp4MCMPvbKiX86CDiDtztKEAbphSUmluEhsBoEjwacxsZT46K9c6zVgi9b2T-x7icX0Io4o1ygXfagpAOOQqyZWUVeSPqw6phnCYnHJjBRA28vy/s1600/250px-Destruction_of_Leviathan.png" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gustave Dore, 1965. "Destruction of the Leviathan"</td></tr>
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First thing was that it needed a few parts. To my surprise, parts are easily available for this type of vintage machine. That is not always the case. Because so many are in use today there are dealers who cater to this. Some parts from more recent models are compatible as well. In this situation I needed a tension spring and one was on it's way to my house days later though it was made for a 1940's model. Fit perfectly. Needles, Bobbins, Wire threaders and rubber bobbin tires are available inexpensively. Here's where I got my parts - <a href="http://stores.ebay.com/SHARP-SEWING-SUPPLIES/SINGER-29K-/_i.html?_fsub=312801619&_sid=304381499&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322">Sharp Sewing Supplies</a> but there are many sources.<br />
I found downloadable manual free of charge through the Singer Company. Click this link: <a href="http://parts.singerco.com/IPinstManuals/29-4.pdf">Singer 29K manual</a> <br />
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Does it even work? Well yes it does, but it took some getting used to. The learning process is still going on. It is quite different than a regular lockstitch in two ways: The presser foot works as the feed from the top and the presser foot can be manipulated to move in different directions. The reasons for this has to do with the primary function it was designed for. That would be very close work as with shoe repairs. It makes a lot of noise when operating but it is a pleasant one. It sounds like "work". Clank clank clank.<br />
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As an example of it's work, see the image below. With this pair of shoes, the stitching was coming apart at the bottom side and the overlapping part. I was able to reinforce the stitches along the bottom then completely turn it to go the flap. It did an excellent job and saved a favorite pair of Minnetonka shoes. This would have been a tricky job even by hand because of the tight space at the bottom. Very cool, very cool indeed.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlet5hd4ns0JBmXK0J-8Cyo6K3_cGkKO6m5srbXcMrvpOi3q_hhIDLTvMC33HnIxYaTMRtyXicXMwyJnGYjYxVrPB_aNf76ks1MlujpE5GR1R5TkSeo9m1sc12uzFaFn9ujTVV61N3i_dC/s1600/IMG_0687.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlet5hd4ns0JBmXK0J-8Cyo6K3_cGkKO6m5srbXcMrvpOi3q_hhIDLTvMC33HnIxYaTMRtyXicXMwyJnGYjYxVrPB_aNf76ks1MlujpE5GR1R5TkSeo9m1sc12uzFaFn9ujTVV61N3i_dC/s320/IMG_0687.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The presser foot moves by moving this brass handle.</td></tr>
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It is quite powerful and sews through heavy leather with no hesitation. It is slow and cumbersome for sure but with leather fast is not what I am looking for. I want a one time pass though so as not to make holes in the work. I also have used this with heavy webbing.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Singer 29k Stitch Sample</td></tr>
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Here is a stitch sample made with fairly heavy good quality leather. The thread used is Jeans top stitching thread. Heavy thread such as #69 works well too. I have heard that the presser foot teeth on the underside will leave marks on the surface. That is a possibility but has not occurred yet with anything I have yet done. Another reason to get your seam right the first time.<br />
The bobbins are very small and so is the machine arm. This is what it looks like with the cover removed.<br />
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The design is to allow access to tight spaces and that has been very very handy a few times. A drawback is that it also makes this less practical for doing very large things that need support. There was a table extension available for these when you purchased them back when new. There are plans for making them now and I may do that someday. The time that would have been useful to have was when I was making a bag. Holding it was a bit awkward on that tiny arm space. This is what the extension table looked like as sold originally<br />
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Anyone who finds this post and is wondering how it's threaded may take note of this next section. First, get a manual. You NEED it to explain the bobbin loading and threading. Simply put, it is not like other machines and you are not going to figure it out on your own. The outside threading is easy to see but this part was a little confusing to me so here's a picture to clarify.<br />
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The thread is pushed down this hole after it leaves the tensioner. It goes all the way down to the presser foot. <br />
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You will need a threader like this. There is a tiny hook at the end to hold the thread as you push it down. Give yourself a lot of extra thread for this, as it can be very tiresome to keep having to re-do it. <br />
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This is where the upper thread comes through. To get at the bobbin, you will need to loosen the screw and turn the cover. <br />
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Once you get familiar with the machine it is a kind of interesting thing to behold. It is very masculine. Of all the machines here this is the only one that my husband actually touched. He was even the first one to use it. Go figure. Is it worth having? Of course I always say yes but this one has a very different purpose than the others. So far it has been very useful for repairs, less so for creativity. If you fix heavy things, then maybe you could use this. If you just want to make things than maybe not. That said, I have made a few things with it that would have been very difficult otherwise, like these little shoes. What's another machine anyway.<br />
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My leviathan, it is a beautiful beast.yarndivahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10132680063667909853noreply@blogger.com57tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7714166932152347946.post-47548572105677786332012-03-31T11:31:00.001-07:002014-05-31T10:07:52.543-07:00The "Grasshopper" Elna's Number 1<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCtsMzWnjJvj75AXl1pbPx3UMnQ7bt_ixDdkgLehZW5zxrdATn5cbDTpTv12_a6ozuIr1KCr7iolYaK0H9BF0_mRp2LtQl_X-TZF2RbotIeUVnTLueOrCBlqvvU5PtJaARFB8KQEguRjMB/s1600/IMG_0021.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCtsMzWnjJvj75AXl1pbPx3UMnQ7bt_ixDdkgLehZW5zxrdATn5cbDTpTv12_a6ozuIr1KCr7iolYaK0H9BF0_mRp2LtQl_X-TZF2RbotIeUVnTLueOrCBlqvvU5PtJaARFB8KQEguRjMB/s320/IMG_0021.JPG" width="240"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Elna 1</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br>
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</tbody></table>This was one machine I had to have, upon seeing it. Not because I needed it, not because of how well it works or even how rare it is. Just because it is so amazing cool. The design is unique and color, well I do have a fondness for machine that are colored anything but white. I introduce you to the Elna company's first machine, the #1 also widely known as "the Grasshopper". From this view you can see why it got this nickname. The knee lift and green color has a certain grasshopper quality. <br>
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The design was created by Ramon Casas from Spain in the mid 1930's. His observations about the difficulty of sewing sleeves of garments brought about free arm. Timing was a problem for this idea as war began in his home country and later in Europe. Years would go by before the design came to production. That is why it has a very 1930's look. The company that finally did make this machine was Tavaro SA of Geneva Switzerland in 1940. It was a munitions factory that decided to take on this project. It was a resounding success. This would explain the look of the case, just like an ammo box. From the outside one would not guess a sewing machine was inside. That's also why it has no model number, it is simply 1. It was the only one they made, but with this success it was not the last.<br>
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Post war sales were quite brisk, as this little machine represented a major change in the home machine industry just when it was needed most. Now, timing was on it's side. Postwar demand was big for a lightweight (15 pounds) free arm machine for simple basic tasks. It was the world's first free arm sewing machine.<br>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh14UBVsAlOi5yfiLdbTgdJ5DvmgxhIRjJQTt9pEtCIHORvVQM5r1Vowp01ftiHj-Db0jYxN9y2-QbIQDaxcqacIt0WErEq2Z1arQHJAWlwbakug3rKJ5yeO20Z_DdiL4nkZMyFI_L2RYZY/s1600/124720.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh14UBVsAlOi5yfiLdbTgdJ5DvmgxhIRjJQTt9pEtCIHORvVQM5r1Vowp01ftiHj-Db0jYxN9y2-QbIQDaxcqacIt0WErEq2Z1arQHJAWlwbakug3rKJ5yeO20Z_DdiL4nkZMyFI_L2RYZY/s320/124720.jpg" width="222"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Advertising for a Grasshopper</td></tr>
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My particular machine was made in 1950. By the way, it was good year for sewing machines in general. I have several made in and around that year, all excellent. Singers, Pfaffs and Elna's Oh my. As an aside, this model was copied almost exactly. I saw one in an ad but did not buy it, possibly made by General electric or Westinghouse. If anyone knows help me please. Just like the Grasshopper only in grey. I am so sorry I did not get it. They are out there still.<br>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9LdCbGby2dAqMUUpm2QnAWVhQ8twdCCg_k92I-aoAnvB8Lmi6KfooZ_yzM6Ig3K9cutpiua44qCWJd2qoXLWEKp4VMy6NLc81gjZ53J5CKMHJOn26F1OzFCboz_9ATMPga8xQvhK9InNz/s1600/IMG_0002.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9LdCbGby2dAqMUUpm2QnAWVhQ8twdCCg_k92I-aoAnvB8Lmi6KfooZ_yzM6Ig3K9cutpiua44qCWJd2qoXLWEKp4VMy6NLc81gjZ53J5CKMHJOn26F1OzFCboz_9ATMPga8xQvhK9InNz/s320/IMG_0002.JPG" width="320"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Elna 1's accessories set</td></tr>
</tbody></table>It is a strait stitch sewing machine that takes common low shank attachments. The bobbins are the normal Elna type, and you can use 15x1 needles. I get all those easily but if you need any particular parts are out there. I got some replacements rubber foot pads from <a href="http://www.whitesewingcenter.com/index.php">White's Sewing Center</a>. This is an excellent resource with all kinds of things for your Grasshopper and Supermatics too. <br>
My Grasshopper came with a small set of accessories and a tiny tin box. The one thing it has that has proven to be a really helpful one is the part made of black plastic upper left. It is a slow gear. Many machines today have this built in feature but in 1950 not so. By placing it on the machine it slows down the speed in an even way, perfect for darning or very precise work. It fits on like this:<br>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6LG5dE-wRWt6_T595UVCH-6wFv7oPdqYt8rNAIUFEO51oGc-UF17XSXgflEK6vMfT1eCcBqsrQdV5u5919Sv9-Lq5U2tnp0-k8NLLDV5ijKdIWP7pro-rDQ8JPtejPVbvzT_DZdF826of/s1600/IMG_0004.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6LG5dE-wRWt6_T595UVCH-6wFv7oPdqYt8rNAIUFEO51oGc-UF17XSXgflEK6vMfT1eCcBqsrQdV5u5919Sv9-Lq5U2tnp0-k8NLLDV5ijKdIWP7pro-rDQ8JPtejPVbvzT_DZdF826of/s320/IMG_0004.JPG" width="320"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Elna 1's low gear cover.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Being a low shank machine makes it easy to use attachments. I use a regular 1/4" foot all the time.<br>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYLMwVtuqyCcY_m2l1XVx0wAujUQpG1sia2zbSfMwVLzEclNXzU1MCC25ytVWPh-DKyLg7fTz9Y0cxoxdyTFKMALB5hqZrzTNjEKD1zYcb2P6ThlpxTz2-tFpDrc4llkndnI39ig-4mXEu/s1600/Elna1atwork.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYLMwVtuqyCcY_m2l1XVx0wAujUQpG1sia2zbSfMwVLzEclNXzU1MCC25ytVWPh-DKyLg7fTz9Y0cxoxdyTFKMALB5hqZrzTNjEKD1zYcb2P6ThlpxTz2-tFpDrc4llkndnI39ig-4mXEu/s320/Elna1atwork.JPG" width="320"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Elna 1 with quilter's piecing foot attached</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMvLftfS9LlsXxMXO9db3TT2WnjAeRiNjso-HIUgR3nLz2TyR8pUspmHnfIqLwHkyFISV_FRS6Hx7so-73Umrx-Xy1ZxyYehPSEjVTNzHwLIQRhcwUXPD_nxGMkHL2q1ZY6HSI6Tm6v-B8/s1600/IMG_0035.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMvLftfS9LlsXxMXO9db3TT2WnjAeRiNjso-HIUgR3nLz2TyR8pUspmHnfIqLwHkyFISV_FRS6Hx7so-73Umrx-Xy1ZxyYehPSEjVTNzHwLIQRhcwUXPD_nxGMkHL2q1ZY6HSI6Tm6v-B8/s320/IMG_0035.JPG" width="320"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Using the Zig Zagger</td></tr>
</tbody></table>There's more. It works well with a walking foot and a zig-zag attachment. In my case, I use a little one called a <a href="http://silkmothsewing.blogspot.com/search/label/Chadwicks%20Zigzagger">Chadwicks ZigZagger</a>. <div>NEW EDIT</div><div>When I wrote this post some time ago, I was not able to get a buttonholer to work on this machine. Since then, with the help of a reader, I was able to get it to work. I was just not thinking about it enough. Here is how it works:</div><div><br></div><div><i>Singer Buttonholer with Elna 1</i></div><div>The key to success here is using the little feed dog cover that comes as part of the attachment set. Normally the buttonholer has it's own plate but that does not fit e little free arm of the Elna. Use the accessory shown in the photo.</div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgczckvfq9VB3C5XRiid3DIwPskHgfEkIgwIYTCw-FTs1ymJ_5zPN62VCGRdr45oNj_E6uu_73QDzReHoZLOaZv5Jih_x-swzrg1KZKHqs30_WudXQ1ucm2JqKqTzc9oudFcg6kqpqdvl78/s640/blogger-image-1154269436.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgczckvfq9VB3C5XRiid3DIwPskHgfEkIgwIYTCw-FTs1ymJ_5zPN62VCGRdr45oNj_E6uu_73QDzReHoZLOaZv5Jih_x-swzrg1KZKHqs30_WudXQ1ucm2JqKqTzc9oudFcg6kqpqdvl78/s640/blogger-image-1154269436.jpg"></a></div></div><div><br></div><div>Now the buttonholer will work fine. </div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4Neqz4vOGFI4E8jdOm2GYoWqdW_U9T2lZtHmPUKmY_JWfkSSzsxsq3CLHQBJssrFmXYrNVP1p_wEfteQvkFei9W7or0jldlNTOmYlyFFIhfN-Vz_jDnqwRD8JolhoI-kwubcOzEn3HENl/s640/blogger-image-1386687389.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4Neqz4vOGFI4E8jdOm2GYoWqdW_U9T2lZtHmPUKmY_JWfkSSzsxsq3CLHQBJssrFmXYrNVP1p_wEfteQvkFei9W7or0jldlNTOmYlyFFIhfN-Vz_jDnqwRD8JolhoI-kwubcOzEn3HENl/s640/blogger-image-1386687389.jpg"></a></div></div><div><br></div><div><b>Adjusting the Stitch Length</b><br>
Elna can be adjusted by lengthening the stitches but that's about it in the fancy automation area. Here is how to set the length and an example of the stitches it makes.<br>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0zfXPalhiJFtyLJOkD8fM3AjGN9TW6eombY1BQCSAWxHOHZAa7EYJjci902320UM-6jC7KJlArFZPMvBGzoc621YeKQXkUTIKGgWHuh44j9VLO1K1KalEGJcR0GaMjvRZiQLF1tk4LCyD/s1600/IMG_0014.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0zfXPalhiJFtyLJOkD8fM3AjGN9TW6eombY1BQCSAWxHOHZAa7EYJjci902320UM-6jC7KJlArFZPMvBGzoc621YeKQXkUTIKGgWHuh44j9VLO1K1KalEGJcR0GaMjvRZiQLF1tk4LCyD/s320/IMG_0014.JPG" width="320"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">To set the stitch length.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcF3Tvc6mjMbxtz1FLszUqjImAwMW1F2XtbSSscEVjK7AJSojVQWQG-UVrjnL2UUmN3w1lcS4_nM3Ndpe7dLMLwwbDLlP3yaWmH9LF7nJBqKN8ji3tkLGUUJ7_qBL8G37nAYR_Jia7e7EJ/s1600/IMG_0002-001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcF3Tvc6mjMbxtz1FLszUqjImAwMW1F2XtbSSscEVjK7AJSojVQWQG-UVrjnL2UUmN3w1lcS4_nM3Ndpe7dLMLwwbDLlP3yaWmH9LF7nJBqKN8ji3tkLGUUJ7_qBL8G37nAYR_Jia7e7EJ/s320/IMG_0002-001.JPG" width="320"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stitches for Elna 1</td></tr>
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The size makes this a easy machine to take places much like the famous Singer 221 Featherweight. The case also folds out to make room for big things like quilts. I have used it for that but really, the space to the right of needle (harp space) is waaaaay to small to do this all the time.<br>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUxuMIcBI0WrnIgCIIVo8MBgTQ2msMHi5YkKUJiz0I99-wAIkW50mtlw7ysyVmAFv2fl27z840YtJUV05VrIAPbnc8ceVO5f-IId1lFr8svdfzn_hontDqnDLKkH8V7xdt54kKbU0UMP_b/s1600/IMG_0024.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUxuMIcBI0WrnIgCIIVo8MBgTQ2msMHi5YkKUJiz0I99-wAIkW50mtlw7ysyVmAFv2fl27z840YtJUV05VrIAPbnc8ceVO5f-IId1lFr8svdfzn_hontDqnDLKkH8V7xdt54kKbU0UMP_b/s320/IMG_0024.JPG" width="320"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwviOXp_KhoqiAgqID4LnnYAEE-2u7pfuLqsLFirEbJaiLhY0a4dBFV91OtWpJ6zUom0U4L0iMUFcphLgen_t4jJ6M3TLXtB_OxHtgAvdo29g1pd5TCTUQk_mUyHsrCLLnkUraB3SuGtk4/s1600/6219977059_288ba06006_m.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwviOXp_KhoqiAgqID4LnnYAEE-2u7pfuLqsLFirEbJaiLhY0a4dBFV91OtWpJ6zUom0U4L0iMUFcphLgen_t4jJ6M3TLXtB_OxHtgAvdo29g1pd5TCTUQk_mUyHsrCLLnkUraB3SuGtk4/s1600/6219977059_288ba06006_m.jpg"></a></div><br>
Some things to know about the Elna #1. They are quite simple but like everything to be oiled. I keep this little one very clean and oil all parts as required. This leads me to mention a starting discovery: It will sometimes smoke when first started Boy this scared me first time! I later found out that it's pretty normal and not to panic. This great help came from a Yahoo group for vintage Elna machines. I recommend finding help if you need it, there are many fans of these old timers. This machine is also prone to running slow. This could be mine, however. I prefer a foot control but these come only with a knee lift. It does make it easier to travel with as there is one less cord to tangle and that's nice. That leads me to this last topic, it travels so well and is interesting to all who see it. You will, however, be pounded with questions and comments when you take this out of it's case. It's impossible to quietly start sewing on it if there is anyone else around. That includes people who do not sew.<br>
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If you live in a complicated world, sometimes it's nice to just enjoy the simplicity of an old sewing machine. This one is all that.<br>
<span id="goog_1795666030"></span><span id="goog_1795666031"></span><br>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBrsh5WgjIPIji6Fm1M7sT8kq-U6wEKGUYalR_ZAgHDETHSnWiLtq2rTCH7Ro_hn8o08NJEyXrOW2C1mDCs6Ahu5V1p8jiegzoBaUCEgVAV-E8puLiv8kPqhQqylbApm9mler3-q-BD2gX/s1600/card1-21x1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBrsh5WgjIPIji6Fm1M7sT8kq-U6wEKGUYalR_ZAgHDETHSnWiLtq2rTCH7Ro_hn8o08NJEyXrOW2C1mDCs6Ahu5V1p8jiegzoBaUCEgVAV-E8puLiv8kPqhQqylbApm9mler3-q-BD2gX/s320/card1-21x1.jpg" width="194"></a></div><br>
<span id="goog_1830745946"></span><span id="goog_1830745947"></span></div>yarndivahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10132680063667909853noreply@blogger.com41tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7714166932152347946.post-77691293310360276182012-02-20T20:46:00.000-08:002012-02-20T20:46:26.608-08:00The Singer 12 "New Family"<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGOxjVu1pjUNSfqJxNBpGl-V9YYZXbLF-w7TbA1qOiHzQeqkI269Kor9R9X4CUovWyjX3Dd6iEqVrCz8yB0mh8A6H3PgUjdIxgVsu3YIawzpFan9PJQtSrUIDRrOVCepAQLHOIGcHLxbBY/s1600/IMG_0628.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGOxjVu1pjUNSfqJxNBpGl-V9YYZXbLF-w7TbA1qOiHzQeqkI269Kor9R9X4CUovWyjX3Dd6iEqVrCz8yB0mh8A6H3PgUjdIxgVsu3YIawzpFan9PJQtSrUIDRrOVCepAQLHOIGcHLxbBY/s320/IMG_0628.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Singer 12 "New Family" Handcrank 1884</td></tr>
</tbody></table>A new member of the sewing machine family came to live with us recently. It is one I have long been interested in, the Singer 12. It is also called "the New Family" machine. This particular one was made in 1884. So tiny, so beautiful despite the condition. This was a sad case. Here is what it was like when I got it.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXAJ7ljlqWtXQebXR1Xb8I_nizzvndg1hHFoC-vrU76lgFTMR42kx5YC_v2-EYXONOdafgknpU0Vsqqw5STjLBZPm5EZy4SLYX2inXM53w4YxFlxexpYo2g7QgNm-Y3M_2l57nFHhX6j0O/s1600/IMG_0604.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXAJ7ljlqWtXQebXR1Xb8I_nizzvndg1hHFoC-vrU76lgFTMR42kx5YC_v2-EYXONOdafgknpU0Vsqqw5STjLBZPm5EZy4SLYX2inXM53w4YxFlxexpYo2g7QgNm-Y3M_2l57nFHhX6j0O/s320/IMG_0604.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rusted and frozen.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>The machine was very well used and then left where water got to it from what I can tell. The rust was and is quite bad. Because of that, the machine has large areas where the paint is gone and some parts that are irreparably damaged. The good news is that it's complete. It even has it's bobbin. Singer 12's are not super rare but still not common enough for parts to be easy to find. That means I will have to make due with what is here. Thank goodness for Evaporust. It has cleaned up many small parts already. <br />
The slide plates are in poor shape with one not removable. I was able to get one free so as to be able to get the bobbin and shuttle in order. The shuttle moves side to side!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEHfXwy4gRbkGPmSwgkdIZ26WC0o4N0auy4FvbkLqY2OqmB8vWNRrWlR4JMl2uB0Mzqb7IEnjhSrcGa2HRwEGuokWD9-dFAXVa0GxsdCe5ksBIsSGQu6Wc2Gt6Uvka1wPCpqKb_flNLXqL/s1600/IMG_0636.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEHfXwy4gRbkGPmSwgkdIZ26WC0o4N0auy4FvbkLqY2OqmB8vWNRrWlR4JMl2uB0Mzqb7IEnjhSrcGa2HRwEGuokWD9-dFAXVa0GxsdCe5ksBIsSGQu6Wc2Gt6Uvka1wPCpqKb_flNLXqL/s320/IMG_0636.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Horizontal orientation for the shuttle.</td></tr>
</tbody></table> This is one area that is quite different than any other Singer I have - the bobbin tension is set by weaving the thread though little holes in the shuttle. It's a bit complicated and I am still figuring it all out. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAdAwc1s1lRpBPCLklQxtn9VMaxQR8Yn4W9R9xQ1nkFs8LGyecGEd6Ev9NkHxkyeYUskCsLodC5XG8PlaHpFmW_fE4Vay1ZHD_MT1JhyODt3WXfTVbbcpDQRic8gSDvz4AZOk6W8J1b-gO/s1600/IMG_0637.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAdAwc1s1lRpBPCLklQxtn9VMaxQR8Yn4W9R9xQ1nkFs8LGyecGEd6Ev9NkHxkyeYUskCsLodC5XG8PlaHpFmW_fE4Vay1ZHD_MT1JhyODt3WXfTVbbcpDQRic8gSDvz4AZOk6W8J1b-gO/s320/IMG_0637.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bobbin and Shuttle. Note the holes and spring in the shuttle.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
People who like these old machines will eventually come across this issue at one time or another. Old iron is heavy and fragile. That's a terrible combination. This Singer 12 had a broken piece that made it unstable. I resorted to this method, and it worked perfectly. It was glued with JB Weld. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2Olda1Eq4UIXmFcEHqq-9Iv414JXrO6z9xnLeYuSaUfTwCWvhHfRmZ6qfYsKv2wp_UXymq7q8jRhWyquYyMHX5S0Uq6bR6Wb205dkV3sIdp1lXH_TVJIPzQhJu5FK53MMxf0qWNml3wRb/s1600/IMG_0603.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2Olda1Eq4UIXmFcEHqq-9Iv414JXrO6z9xnLeYuSaUfTwCWvhHfRmZ6qfYsKv2wp_UXymq7q8jRhWyquYyMHX5S0Uq6bR6Wb205dkV3sIdp1lXH_TVJIPzQhJu5FK53MMxf0qWNml3wRb/s320/IMG_0603.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Repaired with JB Weld</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
I found a Singer 12 needle set and new rubber winder tire. If you find you need one, the rubber tire for the winder is the same size as the ones for the Singer 29-4. That is a fairly easy to find part. I am still searching for a good source for needles but Ebay does have them.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_386yCDrjcTrb4ZNLCvU520ltScDQVGo8gWmox0nyMnDFx6xAdZRPpXQWRXbQ2L82ytnn9LedlCwRD_BgFkr0Q5eSgFpj20F4k-JQFEPMxUf3YmFt29zsMsJ3r0ZU3q7IDs5-AQl1gR_p/s1600/IMG_0623.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_386yCDrjcTrb4ZNLCvU520ltScDQVGo8gWmox0nyMnDFx6xAdZRPpXQWRXbQ2L82ytnn9LedlCwRD_BgFkr0Q5eSgFpj20F4k-JQFEPMxUf3YmFt29zsMsJ3r0ZU3q7IDs5-AQl1gR_p/s320/IMG_0623.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>Cleaning was slow and there was a lot of debris inside. Dirty! For this process I used Gojo non-pumice and cotton balls. Later I used sewing machine oil. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGOxjVu1pjUNSfqJxNBpGl-V9YYZXbLF-w7TbA1qOiHzQeqkI269Kor9R9X4CUovWyjX3Dd6iEqVrCz8yB0mh8A6H3PgUjdIxgVsu3YIawzpFan9PJQtSrUIDRrOVCepAQLHOIGcHLxbBY/s1600/IMG_0628.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGOxjVu1pjUNSfqJxNBpGl-V9YYZXbLF-w7TbA1qOiHzQeqkI269Kor9R9X4CUovWyjX3Dd6iEqVrCz8yB0mh8A6H3PgUjdIxgVsu3YIawzpFan9PJQtSrUIDRrOVCepAQLHOIGcHLxbBY/s320/IMG_0628.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After some cleaning.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The Singer 12 has a system for setting in the needle that can be a problem. You must set the needle by sight, not by setting it in a slot. It is not too hard, just takes some attention. The needles go in with the groove and eye facing you. Here is a photo of the placement.</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOIbrKG0BVoYmJs_ALKzbKBYMTXpZidAtAlqHPAN_oMOF1WOVi8cMsQEh51-Q_NAnpTOWJa6deG4CXRnHFUyat5sNifwKR4s7Dw2pH90r4AcPBswV0nUUzmXkPRS-0ERQ6Uact_uGAqiHx/s1600/IMG_0635.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOIbrKG0BVoYmJs_ALKzbKBYMTXpZidAtAlqHPAN_oMOF1WOVi8cMsQEh51-Q_NAnpTOWJa6deG4CXRnHFUyat5sNifwKR4s7Dw2pH90r4AcPBswV0nUUzmXkPRS-0ERQ6Uact_uGAqiHx/s320/IMG_0635.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Needle placement. Note the tiny part at the top of the clamp.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Now to the sewing. Would this even work? It was not looking good. It took a while to get it right as this machine is so different that the model 27. Even putting it together after cleaning was a little tense. Thankfully I did take photos of where everything was before I removed the parts so as to put it back correctly. So many issues! </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqFzbN5XfFMhvo75RQDqdVi-gv__l4zA9sNZRQOjdOnxm4SsSDfMwisgaw3Qx_YbRhHQOckPMuXmi6lIh38R5JNHQjfuP1cjewCmyr5tNp0Z_Q8cuYaZ4BZpEjkQRd-V78_uMYkb-TBmpm/s1600/IMG_0639.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqFzbN5XfFMhvo75RQDqdVi-gv__l4zA9sNZRQOjdOnxm4SsSDfMwisgaw3Qx_YbRhHQOckPMuXmi6lIh38R5JNHQjfuP1cjewCmyr5tNp0Z_Q8cuYaZ4BZpEjkQRd-V78_uMYkb-TBmpm/s320/IMG_0639.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9XjqdruYM0RrYgUotiPwSz2pPUA5iF-HMob6R_c2WLA5MUKJ0Hl2T-C5PS2MCiou4NYD5KPSeiD_scjL3BkFkFYK_jVExuK0ISNqhfSD0W8qbmc8eBbdsmauDlBos6_QsNKvfn72ptf3N/s1600/IMG_0639.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div>The tension discs are not in good shape from rust and also a problem with the thread take up or check spring caused all the mess. What about the crazy shuttle thread winding? Add to it the needle placement adjustments through trial and error. Eventually I did get it to make a decent stitch.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibkpbd0p2AFat5pW6wtMYJQRq2tsJBSrH3Wbtzwg1BQ7UlHMDCGn6WYgKSj1V2ocncAXmhIlINyBL-4pyD5OCxu5N9p2ikt8FZNynh4Soz_KQpuMn11hnOxnmvgZFgSn5f5N4t-hb4jNXG/s1600/IMG_0634.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibkpbd0p2AFat5pW6wtMYJQRq2tsJBSrH3Wbtzwg1BQ7UlHMDCGn6WYgKSj1V2ocncAXmhIlINyBL-4pyD5OCxu5N9p2ikt8FZNynh4Soz_KQpuMn11hnOxnmvgZFgSn5f5N4t-hb4jNXG/s320/IMG_0634.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>There will be more work to come. There is hope. This little machine deserves to be useful again and I'll see to it that it is.yarndivahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10132680063667909853noreply@blogger.com40tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7714166932152347946.post-69485411084819335312012-01-19T13:08:00.000-08:002012-01-19T13:17:34.324-08:00Easy Home Canning Labels<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiBFdsAQ1vVPFBfpvGhoI7ju95eiAHf7DBLUDxxB5QHQu5DGhh3e6wjTn8Nswyx8N32g2GGOOPDm7JA20MEAq4ZHM7AR30qstRVzpNrPaKx0wR2bJTtPfMn7qy1GUV9a_nfaw4u4u4uZ83/s1600/IMG_0453.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiBFdsAQ1vVPFBfpvGhoI7ju95eiAHf7DBLUDxxB5QHQu5DGhh3e6wjTn8Nswyx8N32g2GGOOPDm7JA20MEAq4ZHM7AR30qstRVzpNrPaKx0wR2bJTtPfMn7qy1GUV9a_nfaw4u4u4uZ83/s320/IMG_0453.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>I love sewing, for sure but also enjoy home canning. This brings me to the purpose of this day's entry: How can you make a good label that doesn't stick to the jar forever? Here's a good solution.<br />
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It starts with making a fun label. I make labels online, print them on resume paper, then cut them out. To get some help, go to <a href="http://www.avery.com/">Label Templates</a>. This is the Avery company's website. They have a lot of cool things there but what we need today is the templates for address labels. You can choose a template for the size you'd like for the jar size you have. A good basic size is 1 1/2 x4" or similar. To use the site you'll need to register, then choose to create a label online. It's quite easy and you can even add artwork from their files or use your own. Remember, the label won't be a address label. Add an image, change the font size, style and color any way you want. <br />
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When it comes time to print, use paper as opposed to a sticky label. I use resume paper as it's a little heavier and holds up better than copier paper. You can then cut out the labels after they are printed. Cut out what you need and set them aside.<br />
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To adhere to the jars, use milk. I place a small amount of milk in a cup and a basting brush. Brush the milk lightly onto the back of the label and hold in place briefly. <br />
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Making labels this way works great, comes off by soaking in water for a minute and best of all lets you be creative in making fun labels for your canned food.yarndivahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10132680063667909853noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7714166932152347946.post-25251377856581591732012-01-13T13:07:00.000-08:002012-01-13T13:15:19.106-08:00The Pfaff 332 Sewing Machine<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgExyRUpOSp4tz-f8dioLEtsGqA3v7boP1WYi8of5d1a06TmpUaJt-rZtAEL-L9mKVYfXyDLPkIiQOZwswxujklk-vAEhN-lOKktKb5gn8znKuWZLvI-TqRnkutM5pxRrneVtB4iBR8MEB3/s1600/IMG_0551.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgExyRUpOSp4tz-f8dioLEtsGqA3v7boP1WYi8of5d1a06TmpUaJt-rZtAEL-L9mKVYfXyDLPkIiQOZwswxujklk-vAEhN-lOKktKb5gn8znKuWZLvI-TqRnkutM5pxRrneVtB4iBR8MEB3/s320/IMG_0551.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pfaff 332 Made in Germany 1957.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>This is a gem that deserves a little attention in the vintage sewing machine world, so I'll do my part to shed some light on this model. This one came to me though a Craig's List "For Free" post. It was from an estate, it was left behind from the garage stuff. I can see why it was not chosen to go with anyone. It was very dirty and not working.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuhgIHyjriV1h-Zb6TMV73iWZr8hojpxu9v-itU87DFpJXTn6N-0-5zntyjoXk69VeIU_90FECfEpjX5vfg7O6sZKHHVlcyuN7tQUe1km1r2j8cP5LcJP7R2NCZLG_HvShKreFK8pIx8ja/s1600/IMG_0036.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuhgIHyjriV1h-Zb6TMV73iWZr8hojpxu9v-itU87DFpJXTn6N-0-5zntyjoXk69VeIU_90FECfEpjX5vfg7O6sZKHHVlcyuN7tQUe1km1r2j8cP5LcJP7R2NCZLG_HvShKreFK8pIx8ja/s320/IMG_0036.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Before Cleaning</td></tr>
</tbody></table>It was the dirtiest of all the machines I have taken in, and believe me that's saying something. It had a big chunk broken off the flywheel where something big fell on it, pry marks from someone trying to open the upper case and wood shavings inside (That was a first) and best of all the needle was in wrong. That must have been what made the owner mad. With a new bobbin, oil and a good cleaning it worked. It was very loud and fast, gosh this was one powerful machine. What a gem! What it lacks in beauty it has in businesslike efficiency and power. I have an older Pfaff 131 so am familiar with some of the features and found there are some improvements to that model.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg4L2jo35z8_LiBiGW-0peufL3POY18pFiqAA_r__wOHRkk6wRnoE898aTax71mubjCKAQiBLhquWorbFNnBJBWeu_WwXoXC0cLInqcF0HUTVYXUn6dhAto7MCuMb-zE_EOOdtjfUehGVH/s1600/IMG_0553.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg4L2jo35z8_LiBiGW-0peufL3POY18pFiqAA_r__wOHRkk6wRnoE898aTax71mubjCKAQiBLhquWorbFNnBJBWeu_WwXoXC0cLInqcF0HUTVYXUn6dhAto7MCuMb-zE_EOOdtjfUehGVH/s320/IMG_0553.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pfaff 332 Bobbin Case</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
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</tbody></table> My favorite change to the Pfaff line is the bobbin case access. To give some background, the only thing I do not like about my older Pfaff is that to get to the bobbin you have to turn up the entire machine and remove the bobbin case. Big pain, particularly with such as heavy sewing machine. Now, you can get at it so easy! That brings me to the second thing, that is the handy extension table.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghHdOtapNI8K01_JfB04XXVbnpc0FXgDwDt4BnSXRZ5FT3i_DVqgoaa15QHUCfZs3Qs984zn-gP8mXqV_vNBf52K9tUtuoHlFzNbZMjSWvHq510QBe_n2jwjcJS1mNAlEbvyjN8KyLXuuA/s1600/IMG_0554.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghHdOtapNI8K01_JfB04XXVbnpc0FXgDwDt4BnSXRZ5FT3i_DVqgoaa15QHUCfZs3Qs984zn-gP8mXqV_vNBf52K9tUtuoHlFzNbZMjSWvHq510QBe_n2jwjcJS1mNAlEbvyjN8KyLXuuA/s320/IMG_0554.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pfaff 332 Fold Up Sewing Bed</td></tr>
</tbody></table>There are many machines with free arm capabilities and many have a table/bed that can be attached to give the support when making a large project. This one is different, it folds up from the machine itself. That is great, as it won't get lost or be somewhere far away when you need it most such as the back of the closet. Even better, you can add to make it larger buy attaching an extension.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOL-zdRgCIcKgXDeBrg1ATh3apToNDbaFOAdFjLA-LjCERXecfy247QQSjtkFYxbGk47R5eF1n3vyZhBmk3caY1HrrCaQx5A5dSF5FUcb_R0m3ZvMI8UKRGFB0x-p6xCwQX9DEkdVww-DA/s1600/IMG_0555.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOL-zdRgCIcKgXDeBrg1ATh3apToNDbaFOAdFjLA-LjCERXecfy247QQSjtkFYxbGk47R5eF1n3vyZhBmk3caY1HrrCaQx5A5dSF5FUcb_R0m3ZvMI8UKRGFB0x-p6xCwQX9DEkdVww-DA/s320/IMG_0555.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pfaff 332 Bed Extension</td></tr>
</tbody></table>The Pfaff 332 has the capability to do zig zag, reverse and a bunch of the usual decorator stitches. It originally came with a guide that you can turn around to get stitches by combining numbers as shown with those corresponding on the machine.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAAizwth6e30No_b7CQ2nPzH_omcU5Qi9NKK_JiqmV3o3ZiflU2C98K-q-8C3Scm02AHq3sOulyIkokItraoaa_GatojeNNrTx4AO7rQ_CEF2PT5WEKax98CvRs_gG9lc41O_JsM42drER/s1600/IMG_0556.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAAizwth6e30No_b7CQ2nPzH_omcU5Qi9NKK_JiqmV3o3ZiflU2C98K-q-8C3Scm02AHq3sOulyIkokItraoaa_GatojeNNrTx4AO7rQ_CEF2PT5WEKax98CvRs_gG9lc41O_JsM42drER/s320/IMG_0556.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pattern dials and spool pins</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
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</tbody></table>I do not have an example of this as to date, I have not even tried to use them. The dial is on the left, the built in pattern cams are inside the top cover near this. It's nice to know it can do these things but so far I just haven't needed them.<br />
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In this photo there is another improvement in the Pfaffs: The ability to turn the spool pins down. If you have ever broken a spool pin or bent one by accident, here is the solution to prevent this. It makes for a very tidy way to ready for storage.<br />
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This sewing machine did not have any attachments when I got it but that has not proven to be a problem as it takes easy to find low shank zig zag accessories. If you have this model, you may want to get a walking foot and a roller foot to help with heavier work. It took a few tries to get a walking foot that would work well with this machine so I've included a photo so you can save some trouble.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8xsyZ-44zVPh5sGdjYK2oFEmC_Lc_MHclSxp7gkg9UiyyrFAcwPAzXM3OBYEES6Cvj_nCBAOP2_LelWVO303gV96NEwUpAoTr2m5zRxvGku9xSzaSv-hapnZQt83suBWpOgwqG0QTOV9u/s1600/IMG_0561.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8xsyZ-44zVPh5sGdjYK2oFEmC_Lc_MHclSxp7gkg9UiyyrFAcwPAzXM3OBYEES6Cvj_nCBAOP2_LelWVO303gV96NEwUpAoTr2m5zRxvGku9xSzaSv-hapnZQt83suBWpOgwqG0QTOV9u/s320/IMG_0561.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
About the stitching and workmanship. That is where this sewing machine shines. It can sew lightweight cotton all the way to outdoor Sunbrella fabric. It does each one equally well. Because it is harder to find a machine that does heavy fabrics well and that is a need I do have for making outdoor things like Cordura nylon packs, I save this special task for this particular machine. With heavy thread, big needle and a small adjustment to the bobbin it sews through with no problem. I have machines with better strait stitches but considering the utility of this, that's not a big deal. When I first got it I had trouble with speed, it seemed to be too fast to do intricate work. With time and more oiling, that has somewhat subsided. Maybe it took too much power to get it going, where now everything is more sensitive. I don't know why but it is easier to use after a few years. Maybe it just likes me better now! In a perfect world this machine would have a slow gear for special work.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7JXtZTuWtF7hhJU924RPChtgZ2AYxEYi3qcwZu9x6egqui6UQ9kzzfMjhneuAaj83qi3PNasZL10-leQQBwb1X4ZfeU9q2umTWnPbK3P1JJ1rgAZGq9Nm5mS80Ganoqnhdt9j0-RGutdY/s1600/IMG_0552.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7JXtZTuWtF7hhJU924RPChtgZ2AYxEYi3qcwZu9x6egqui6UQ9kzzfMjhneuAaj83qi3PNasZL10-leQQBwb1X4ZfeU9q2umTWnPbK3P1JJ1rgAZGq9Nm5mS80Ganoqnhdt9j0-RGutdY/s320/IMG_0552.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sort of masculine, my gray 332</td></tr>
</tbody></table>In summary it is a fine machine and a good choice for someone who wants a no fuss worker. It is simple enough for a beginner but would be best for someone who wants a heavier duty machine. That it can do zig- zag stitches and take low shank attachments makes it one of the more versatile vintage machines. It's no featherweight but it's not overly heavy either. I carry it in a specially made for it canvas bag with no problem. There is a disadvantage is that parts are getting harder to find, such as timing belts. That said, they rarely break or need repair. If you see one, get it. If you are offered one, take it.yarndivahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10132680063667909853noreply@blogger.com125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7714166932152347946.post-69864906101906322052011-12-30T19:16:00.000-08:002012-01-24T07:24:21.825-08:00The Thor Gladiron Mangle<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOTefcQu7hEqMbgaCLh8vqw_kxHllLw96wugRf5kztrLFcOLxdqUwM_GwkZT8_loLwRDBeEg4PDrtz6Z9srIe6YyR2Bm3vG6HDUvdDaSR1lYhXgZN_9yzse4u3PPaspHAX0vwpwW0VvPkl/s1600/IMG_0481.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOTefcQu7hEqMbgaCLh8vqw_kxHllLw96wugRf5kztrLFcOLxdqUwM_GwkZT8_loLwRDBeEg4PDrtz6Z9srIe6YyR2Bm3vG6HDUvdDaSR1lYhXgZN_9yzse4u3PPaspHAX0vwpwW0VvPkl/s320/IMG_0481.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div>Oh, boy I got a little crazy this time. I was shopping my local favorite thrift shop and low and behold this beauty was sitting in the corner. It was an item I have long been curious about, an iron mangle.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-sGAa63CGxSwxJL7osEgyfhaYzrN35a6_7V6OxP8mFIP1_Z9b7GhB_V34KeESoAlUiM06qPf62QtKFGBg9DrxNOR0JdopLtznMSll8VbufGdmMY5mxrG-RnS-i04Kc2MAglmi-jOi_XQc/s1600/5410_f260.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-sGAa63CGxSwxJL7osEgyfhaYzrN35a6_7V6OxP8mFIP1_Z9b7GhB_V34KeESoAlUiM06qPf62QtKFGBg9DrxNOR0JdopLtznMSll8VbufGdmMY5mxrG-RnS-i04Kc2MAglmi-jOi_XQc/s1600/5410_f260.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Mighty Ironrite</td></tr>
</tbody></table> Many times I have seen lovely ones like this Ironrite but space has always been a problem. Now here was a little one that I could actually fit in my sewing space! It came home right away.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRBZSYiBtz0X5r-vI47MXiA4DP62EGPIcuSe_yZI6kayc5ZSEoxg96KbXpsAOdXtVfvia23XBFlZHVqEpOj7QH7PWrSJvPk0Rb7WRkgz7D-Ywa_pApJjYwdU85rl6ZV9X2s9-KKv0C48bK/s1600/IMG_1237.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRBZSYiBtz0X5r-vI47MXiA4DP62EGPIcuSe_yZI6kayc5ZSEoxg96KbXpsAOdXtVfvia23XBFlZHVqEpOj7QH7PWrSJvPk0Rb7WRkgz7D-Ywa_pApJjYwdU85rl6ZV9X2s9-KKv0C48bK/s1600/IMG_1237.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">She's So Cute! </td></tr>
</tbody></table>The Thor Gladiron is a bit less common and sophisticated than the bigger and more deluxe Ironrite but it does have it's charms. The idea of using a roller iron is not gone, there are still mangles made today. The Miele company has a nice one as seen <a href="http://www.mieleusa.com/usa/laundry/rotaryIron/product.asp?cat=4&subcat=17&model=555&series=126&nav=20&snav=180&tnav=195&oT=175&menu_id=20&active=Our%20Products&subm=Home%20Appliances&thirdL=Laundry%20Care&fourthL=Rotary%20Irons&fifthL=Products&">Here</a>. There is less demand of course as we just don't do so much household ironing. Who irons bedsheets and tea towels?<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWXBoHH1PXpByaU2haPbuA9JOgHnoHgXGVoZ5x_nJX3pH_w9xYm4L9d5uL4NRIP96TKgDI75V_YFYZvWR9af7zrOfaukt2Yb95Z7tu0aHJ00xfVuyio8Uo6BqrWkh6rtcon5-OjzUfLq2e/s1600/IMG_0480.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWXBoHH1PXpByaU2haPbuA9JOgHnoHgXGVoZ5x_nJX3pH_w9xYm4L9d5uL4NRIP96TKgDI75V_YFYZvWR9af7zrOfaukt2Yb95Z7tu0aHJ00xfVuyio8Uo6BqrWkh6rtcon5-OjzUfLq2e/s320/IMG_0480.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fabric on the Roller</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
Using this item has taken some practice. Now, I am a dinosaur that actually does iron clothes and with sewing there is always a need for an iron. Operating a Gladiron is almost completely different than what I am used to. Thankfully, there is an instruction manual that shows how to iron every thing from dish cloths, shirts, bras and even underwear. The main selling point is that you can iron a shirt in 4 minutes - but I have not been able to do it nearly so fast.....yet. I am still trying to get used to using a spray bottle and two hands for handling the fabric without it pulling all crazy through the roller. Practice practice practice. <br />
<br />
<i>How it works: </i>It works by just placing the fabric on the arm, plug it in and then the fabric feeds through. Keep hands away from lava hot metal iron. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFKmPy1esesGRwQyX2d6PNrCH2pjDpKaU7hUgsy8eZNQRgJ9H6ATTV_INv31mfaSj-uTLszI2qZ_iefEuZrG71l7wiyN2UYSnfq62tPPLm2rgekwi8nLN1jp4cy7G8RdIEzZMLNQiZkxC5/s1600/IMG_0483.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFKmPy1esesGRwQyX2d6PNrCH2pjDpKaU7hUgsy8eZNQRgJ9H6ATTV_INv31mfaSj-uTLszI2qZ_iefEuZrG71l7wiyN2UYSnfq62tPPLm2rgekwi8nLN1jp4cy7G8RdIEzZMLNQiZkxC5/s320/IMG_0483.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gladiron Temperature Gauge</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
It is a simple machine really. There is a temperature control dial that can be adjusted with great sensitivity - moderate to very very hot. Much variable heat than a typical iron. Once it is plugged in the roller turns. There is no on/off switch. All controls are with a knee lever that has 3 positions. It is a combination of those three position that make it stop, open or move again.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxQdv_vDfWlCdEyjqNV7SufBm4_ylyV5vZ5np4VpAXAqaJwcs9eRAg3GGt074Jrx901N-s0Gr-oGJqtgTN90WsY_GmPLVOVEGnMKaatiauCtv7PtVIWOlxavr6W7TBRnWI5FR0Sg0VKBn3/s1600/IMG_0485.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxQdv_vDfWlCdEyjqNV7SufBm4_ylyV5vZ5np4VpAXAqaJwcs9eRAg3GGt074Jrx901N-s0Gr-oGJqtgTN90WsY_GmPLVOVEGnMKaatiauCtv7PtVIWOlxavr6W7TBRnWI5FR0Sg0VKBn3/s320/IMG_0485.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Three Position Knee Control</td></tr>
</tbody></table> Once you get a feel for it it's really easy. There are side extensions to add to the work space but I have no room now - even for a picture, sorry. They are stored underneath for the time being.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuMz22E9q35cB1lnGUb76snLPkMcCMr7l1XFL8sJGlQE0yioStHkFNq25_tN1ujOcUo-Fai9yWW3N3oMhDO06dhizLiVC8wDijKqtrfhdJxaAwoZRR-6lcR9T3NCFnAsldOBqPv6zEeOQo/s1600/IMG_0484.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuMz22E9q35cB1lnGUb76snLPkMcCMr7l1XFL8sJGlQE0yioStHkFNq25_tN1ujOcUo-Fai9yWW3N3oMhDO06dhizLiVC8wDijKqtrfhdJxaAwoZRR-6lcR9T3NCFnAsldOBqPv6zEeOQo/s320/IMG_0484.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gladiron Table Extensions</td></tr>
</tbody></table> The nice thing about this, other than it's utter <i>coolness, </i>is that is takes up as much space as a nightstand. If you need to store it, the entire top can be folded downwards to fit inside frame sideways. I broke the screw that holds it in place in transit, so no folding for the time being.<br />
Now, it won't replace a regular iron and board but it does have some use. I pre-wash a lot of fabric and getting it pressed for cutting is a pain, particularly if there is 2 or more yards. This baby makes short work of that job, and does well at high and low temperatures. It's kind of fun to use too.<br />
Here's a quick view if it in action. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/coDO80TwDxU?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>yarndivahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10132680063667909853noreply@blogger.com15tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7714166932152347946.post-32931085648549908712011-11-28T19:57:00.000-08:002011-11-28T19:57:31.694-08:00Colorful Quilt<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpyjUoJ4KvtpKBUJt78dwUVv7pct2WPUWYWyol4qCX6ewK2wGsw5EsEm4bt5iTB-Jrr4RHy-xhA3aXKRBnOOYOJ8Yaus0vO0H0shkNzPmrD5wybC5lXjdOBPyRN0qG1rjh95pfHdL4xSEc/s1600/IMG_0295.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpyjUoJ4KvtpKBUJt78dwUVv7pct2WPUWYWyol4qCX6ewK2wGsw5EsEm4bt5iTB-Jrr4RHy-xhA3aXKRBnOOYOJ8Yaus0vO0H0shkNzPmrD5wybC5lXjdOBPyRN0qG1rjh95pfHdL4xSEc/s320/IMG_0295.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />
I was asked to maybe write something about a project I've made with these old machines. Because I normally make things for other people, and are garments, I enjoy doing something completely different for my free time. Quilting is a new found joy. Why I resisted for so long, I know not. This time I tried a project that had more than squares. I bought a jelly roll of fabric, added some of my own and made borders. The pattern was only for the inside and is called a "braid". The rest I made to fit the bed and batting size.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs7Efkb_JlnI0ogqynH0tpS6Jy3guL4SfIC4xiJBmvjxWDYPzTvZX9HLADWpcAwdnb6qr-iosYp0ydgEcbr0xUiWTsaCGneqvO5DiPs02lQSdFXzHzi2ep1-Ev9vBaxFlsJMTuLPwgAuh0/s1600/IMG_0199.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs7Efkb_JlnI0ogqynH0tpS6Jy3guL4SfIC4xiJBmvjxWDYPzTvZX9HLADWpcAwdnb6qr-iosYp0ydgEcbr0xUiWTsaCGneqvO5DiPs02lQSdFXzHzi2ep1-Ev9vBaxFlsJMTuLPwgAuh0/s320/IMG_0199.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>It started this way. Cut and then sewn together in this manner. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQeDsqIbi6MTpKwEN41buoRrizgdhy2kG9Wwg-XGopKv4jUzSyYJOvUBWCs7my4cYQqQ7k_tGnTOgdQm663UStlI1YgHrcxSj9TG79FKIM9rdrRahwRgr8mtGZeYNCm7WnJsE6AYqV3rSD/s1600/IMG_0248.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQeDsqIbi6MTpKwEN41buoRrizgdhy2kG9Wwg-XGopKv4jUzSyYJOvUBWCs7my4cYQqQ7k_tGnTOgdQm663UStlI1YgHrcxSj9TG79FKIM9rdrRahwRgr8mtGZeYNCm7WnJsE6AYqV3rSD/s320/IMG_0248.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiozcJTggSC3sCc7kOQjH6qxu8JL78FC5gNGjARUcd1o0UlngYVNuqDIQLLL-oDeZs43fB3awd_BiGVR3Mbp0etCASOc2XbSBG6ydJqR7m93mn4zqiMxdca1RXMSvQGwhnxMuaExpBpLc_j/s1600/IMG_0225.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiozcJTggSC3sCc7kOQjH6qxu8JL78FC5gNGjARUcd1o0UlngYVNuqDIQLLL-oDeZs43fB3awd_BiGVR3Mbp0etCASOc2XbSBG6ydJqR7m93mn4zqiMxdca1RXMSvQGwhnxMuaExpBpLc_j/s320/IMG_0225.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9EvAj2WoPSdDurGoCVMvaOChe3A5tz25ewBwIMBnm0UfF-JCtZ0SykRyV6nENe3p0-Dsm0tekYuhUSFaenRJ_11pZwTzSo3LJcItLae7mlSMQNoncsTneaDoJbUdOShM8F9x9Na0YsB_z/s1600/IMG_0245.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9EvAj2WoPSdDurGoCVMvaOChe3A5tz25ewBwIMBnm0UfF-JCtZ0SykRyV6nENe3p0-Dsm0tekYuhUSFaenRJ_11pZwTzSo3LJcItLae7mlSMQNoncsTneaDoJbUdOShM8F9x9Na0YsB_z/s320/IMG_0245.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div> There was a lot of experimenting on how to sew them together with no trimming but alas, it was better this way after all. The next part was to add the borders, more fabric and then to quilt the whole thing. I am not one who enjoys free motion quilting so I yet again did strait rows. Free motion is for next time.<br />
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The Viking 2000 (early 60's), Eldredge Rotary (1930's) and the Singer 27 (1889) did all the piece work and the Pfaff 131 (1950) did quilting. It seems every machine has it's specialty so it's rare I do anything on only one machine. I am guessing it's not just me who does this.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPejL4AUnh_8iE-ndkICqpiRandzQAlzjqCIEg-igjWiyRF-oL8dbzws8arUCbsKJ-HpGzuvGKRulOFIoz_LnAufGAHy8WZxzzpyEO1oRX3fD-8iLcYO73_NA5P6Ndz6ejiA_2Nb7FfcCz/s1600/IMG_0270.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPejL4AUnh_8iE-ndkICqpiRandzQAlzjqCIEg-igjWiyRF-oL8dbzws8arUCbsKJ-HpGzuvGKRulOFIoz_LnAufGAHy8WZxzzpyEO1oRX3fD-8iLcYO73_NA5P6Ndz6ejiA_2Nb7FfcCz/s320/IMG_0270.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>I am very inspired by the many quilters I met through the internet. How do they do it? I am still trying to figure out some things. One of them is how do you match patterned fabric? I just gave up and let myself relax about the non-matchy thing. This particular one may be a little extreme - and my husband was very leery of it (as usual) but in the end it sort of works. I guess that is the lesson the wise ones know. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPMHdCxTpKhJloHaIywHUPZy8Bj1P2NCVKdPf_4Flo3ef188seZplpBUxoO7SAX3WTASjtRjmAnmJeuF_oRZaKdQgzo0SZVNSKtlfxnLycSqkJvX4N_bOWWQ_WGE9_x9Eha9dRKIVfCPVz/s1600/IMG_0300.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPMHdCxTpKhJloHaIywHUPZy8Bj1P2NCVKdPf_4Flo3ef188seZplpBUxoO7SAX3WTASjtRjmAnmJeuF_oRZaKdQgzo0SZVNSKtlfxnLycSqkJvX4N_bOWWQ_WGE9_x9Eha9dRKIVfCPVz/s320/IMG_0300.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>yarndivahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10132680063667909853noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7714166932152347946.post-11313482727809069172011-09-25T15:43:00.000-07:002014-11-30T11:46:47.697-08:00Making Button Holes with the Bernina 730<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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This is a very specific post, but I hope is helpful to those who own a Bernina 730 Record. It's not the new Bernina730E but still has it's charms. This 1969 avocado darling was top of the line in her day and still is tops in my sewing room. It is my best all around sewing machine. It has sewn for miles and years with no repairs at all. It produces stitches of the best quality. That said, it does have a weird semi automatic buttonhole set up. If you find yourself confused, you are not alone. Here is a step by step tutorial:<br />
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*Before you begin, get your manual out. I still refer to it, after 25 years.<br />
*Check to see if the buttonhole lever is movable. <b>It is very common for this lever to be frozen in place.</b> If so, try Tri-flow and a blow drier to loosen it. Below is a photo of the lever in the correct position for buttonholes. You should be able to pull down to engage it.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwxbjs-bPyJ_BaOYkN6Tm8knizXgTPb_YRZqsLlbYjF5C_D9qPc7zdgsbfmUkooX6OqBK5FviUAFJoZ7GtRmytcMCzNQLgWCK8M3OUBcr-ECGjP9l7-M0mzkL0brXELzFLs9iq_rX2Xvqh/s1600/IMG_0257.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwxbjs-bPyJ_BaOYkN6Tm8knizXgTPb_YRZqsLlbYjF5C_D9qPc7zdgsbfmUkooX6OqBK5FviUAFJoZ7GtRmytcMCzNQLgWCK8M3OUBcr-ECGjP9l7-M0mzkL0brXELzFLs9iq_rX2Xvqh/s320/IMG_0257.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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*Prepare the bobbin by threading through the "finger". This gives a little more tension to give a good stitch. *Attach the buttonhole foot, as in this picture.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7uw5BXW7DWXeJfTuBr0sHiXZ18AI_dp4JlcPD5OhYlNRHKRSLaCWnjpS6Zg0nlVZlAMyDp-HFSQ2WfDk4qErWeUTp2Qy9lUEO80hEBNfYJ7OaiDiNV8wu-E7iEjqaNydh5IOXBzdfF0pJ/s1600/IMG_0254.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7uw5BXW7DWXeJfTuBr0sHiXZ18AI_dp4JlcPD5OhYlNRHKRSLaCWnjpS6Zg0nlVZlAMyDp-HFSQ2WfDk4qErWeUTp2Qy9lUEO80hEBNfYJ7OaiDiNV8wu-E7iEjqaNydh5IOXBzdfF0pJ/s320/IMG_0254.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Threaded Bobbin and buttonhole foot</td></tr>
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<i>Making the Buttonholes</i><br />
<i> </i> <br />
1. Set the knobs on the machine as shown the manual. Side lever up, stitch length to the top.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV26rRuNR90BU0-XrTdotN_hyphenhyphenRTgRVCLLWPIR6H63DJ6Us-oHn03plmnqyovVdqfCmN7-cwbDz73UiGS8tdN8-ahnTPXAig7djV7796sA6nioL6XRrTaga3mzzDD5NBDO-rllLN3zaO1xD/s1600/IMG_0258.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV26rRuNR90BU0-XrTdotN_hyphenhyphenRTgRVCLLWPIR6H63DJ6Us-oHn03plmnqyovVdqfCmN7-cwbDz73UiGS8tdN8-ahnTPXAig7djV7796sA6nioL6XRrTaga3mzzDD5NBDO-rllLN3zaO1xD/s320/IMG_0258.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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2. Set zig zag by moving the lever to the right until it hits the stop gently. That moves the zig zag gears into alignment. Move the needle position lever to match up white lines on zig zag control. It's a bit off here, but until I have another photo this gives an idea. Thanks to a reader for helping.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF6n2BiskgHFo2-JPLMRLZ1e6PFoeku0z5pwOierKSG3U5Lyswjuz2epfBP7VN23Aajxi4Dd17UarsxkgCqqaVSQfI4XeADzj02kir8Zvxn3Yyw1ycpuYRH2qz38zsv5uEZKnladHvMm1T/s1600/IMG_0257.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF6n2BiskgHFo2-JPLMRLZ1e6PFoeku0z5pwOierKSG3U5Lyswjuz2epfBP7VN23Aajxi4Dd17UarsxkgCqqaVSQfI4XeADzj02kir8Zvxn3Yyw1ycpuYRH2qz38zsv5uEZKnladHvMm1T/s320/IMG_0257.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Move to the right, these are the correct zig zag settings it should have set for you.</td></tr>
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3. <b>Buttonholes start by going away from you.</b> Make sure your needle is in the center. If you need ot , turn hand wheel to get it in place (it usually already is).<br />
<br />
Begin making your buttonhole starting at your marker to your other mark. I use pins but remove them when the presser foot is in the right position.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSvAsNhv6d6Hmdg58_uerKGdiuvaClpzxSHnVZtVCTmATRAOQX4yY4Iqmqbv0TK5ZxLIy3d_CFBjL7_DHWrA_g5_ReGYhAsZdGUpbtoVO8f-OzM1wA0njRPw7OnrS4afv4iI86ZiwdLBiH/s1600/IMG_0259.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSvAsNhv6d6Hmdg58_uerKGdiuvaClpzxSHnVZtVCTmATRAOQX4yY4Iqmqbv0TK5ZxLIy3d_CFBjL7_DHWrA_g5_ReGYhAsZdGUpbtoVO8f-OzM1wA0njRPw7OnrS4afv4iI86ZiwdLBiH/s320/IMG_0259.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">First side, backwards.</td></tr>
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4. With needle up, push lever to the left stop. This makes the bar tack. Hold fabric tightly for this.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMZ0rF2f1kLWX43ykdDgRi06lmXsvqg5YY_gEvTqGHK6WiDzUIM9XKeFetKM7XqKK43Flwdpx32HgB7M8b3uaU1jozsaMJy29_P_mJODe6PUYtRnyrxK7th9Ynj1feTFa1-fN2YbPStrSL/s1600/IMG_0260.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMZ0rF2f1kLWX43ykdDgRi06lmXsvqg5YY_gEvTqGHK6WiDzUIM9XKeFetKM7XqKK43Flwdpx32HgB7M8b3uaU1jozsaMJy29_P_mJODe6PUYtRnyrxK7th9Ynj1feTFa1-fN2YbPStrSL/s320/IMG_0260.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Left stop position</td></tr>
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5. Needle up, move lever to the right stop. This will start it forwards. Below is the right stop position.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2Bn3yAwSSrNx6M9aO9MWdsp0Tv69VpvY9mvMRznUtWO1Smu2HDmrUB6dYhFdC7hKzY90HekOi7Et4RGlvkd_bBjQ-AxDH5-0q_ytueYALCkxq0E4F0RZ8GZ-tSGKshy98XcDVIzkZTRej/s1600/IMG_0256.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2Bn3yAwSSrNx6M9aO9MWdsp0Tv69VpvY9mvMRznUtWO1Smu2HDmrUB6dYhFdC7hKzY90HekOi7Et4RGlvkd_bBjQ-AxDH5-0q_ytueYALCkxq0E4F0RZ8GZ-tSGKshy98XcDVIzkZTRej/s320/IMG_0256.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Right side stop position</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<i>Note: it is very tempting to pull or move the fabric. My best advice is to resist - it does better when you just let it go no matter how scary that is!</i><br />
6. With needle up, push lever to the left stop. Make another bar tack, hold fabric tightly.<br />
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7. To secure the tack: Move the lever over the right stop - way over - past the screw. It should look like this:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit-ASjs_xpPX1CBWFaIufWtMHdbC5IBP69IMkgmxYTR19F04dbNx43uNYMM2NH-IV2cpvx0gstbpeQu0nUBD56Rchz0raooW3miALnpLlfeA8lI5lTJ175_LQP0JluIhJbjl01eARYhOmT/s1600/IMG_0264.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit-ASjs_xpPX1CBWFaIufWtMHdbC5IBP69IMkgmxYTR19F04dbNx43uNYMM2NH-IV2cpvx0gstbpeQu0nUBD56Rchz0raooW3miALnpLlfeA8lI5lTJ175_LQP0JluIhJbjl01eARYhOmT/s320/IMG_0264.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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It will stay in place, locking the zig zag and going up the side slightly in tiny stitches.<br />
<br />
This all sounds terribly complicated but after a few times it should take only a few minutes. Basically, here is the procedure in shorthand:<br />
Always have needle up to move lever, hold fabric on tacks.<br />
Stitch back<br />
Left stop<br />
Right stop<br />
Left stop<br />
Far right stop, 3 stitches.<br />
<br />
<br />
The drawback to this system is that, as like with all manual buttonholes, you have to measure each one perfectly. Another is that you can't do a second pass. <br />
They turn out OK but if you spend a little more time the corded ones are the best. The Bernina buttonhole foot has a hook at the end to allow for string to go under the foot and under the stitches for a raised effect. I use this when using heavier fabrics mostly. <br />
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On a related topic, the Singer Buttonholer cannot be used on the Bernina 730. Finally got around to trying it out and alas, it was not very good. It did fit the Buttonholer's cloth plate, and with an low shank adapter fit the needle clamp. The machine's extension bed was in place for support. The problem is the bar that holds the Bernina presser feet secure is not positioned well for the buttonholer to fit under it. I did get a buttonhole made, but it came loose a few times causing the adapter to fall away.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY1VMILoM0qV9sFsbAshrmmkXV_CNmAGShFssSNfA54FZUPh3QYUWZfS8CDNVOH8w57dKCw5dlMIcuQhteTG30W-v4oD79uVPLWMh8OVBsHs163lCNgFCmGoxmNCo3nqx2gBIx6z-Ktgj1/s1600/IMG_0252.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY1VMILoM0qV9sFsbAshrmmkXV_CNmAGShFssSNfA54FZUPh3QYUWZfS8CDNVOH8w57dKCw5dlMIcuQhteTG30W-v4oD79uVPLWMh8OVBsHs163lCNgFCmGoxmNCo3nqx2gBIx6z-Ktgj1/s320/IMG_0252.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />
Very close, but it was enough to break my needle and come apart a few times. If there was a buttonholer with a lower profile then it would work fine. Mystery solved.yarndivahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10132680063667909853noreply@blogger.com35tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7714166932152347946.post-84592876568433477132011-09-04T22:20:00.000-07:002012-05-06T18:21:46.683-07:00Green Machine, the Elna Supermatic<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1boJ_MQbT9VzDQuayjGEl6cnq_QyZWWKTkR3W8cfbtXTyERqvkqL5NmOu0sKypPbtLUEDsBFQT0zaWJkE4MS3malEqYW8riAt5hR-uRIoeKpSpOr729D-spYPLov9iIlp8xI2D37-FNJ-/s1600/1955+Elna+Supermatic.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1boJ_MQbT9VzDQuayjGEl6cnq_QyZWWKTkR3W8cfbtXTyERqvkqL5NmOu0sKypPbtLUEDsBFQT0zaWJkE4MS3malEqYW8riAt5hR-uRIoeKpSpOr729D-spYPLov9iIlp8xI2D37-FNJ-/s320/1955+Elna+Supermatic.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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The Elna Supermatic's design is one of those you love or hate. It has a very confident look about it, for sure. That color, that greeeeeeeen! Myself, I love it. It has very sleek modern styling, especially considering the year it was introduced: 1952. Later years had slightly different colors, so if this is too much, consider the other which was light green Later models were beige and not so flashy.<br />
<br />
The Supermatic was the next sewing machine made by Tavaro of Switzerland. The first being the Number 1, of the <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/7717395@N06/4630135925/in/set-72157605268568730">The Grasshopper</a>. It has all of the feature of that little one, notably the free arm, and more. From what I can tell, this model introduced the cam to the home sewing machine market. They were called "discs" and fit onto the Elnagraph inside the sewing machine itself. That was how designs were made. It can do many stitches this way, but what I use most are the stretch and zig zag. Because it can use those discs, it's hard to imagine this machine being as old as it is. The advertisements do place it in time, though.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRX5NB80JAVJu1J7Uel9XhyphenhyphenCmqfmimPRjBQjStICnSvTKalyNnhIn2dzWd7tHKqjynnyPltnvIjLtJfXXRdmXkJxcNIPU4qO8O6S64_u6YxREg5dM0FS7V9Czxfc2bq0YfRFbJuUaAp5qv/s1600/elna.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRX5NB80JAVJu1J7Uel9XhyphenhyphenCmqfmimPRjBQjStICnSvTKalyNnhIn2dzWd7tHKqjynnyPltnvIjLtJfXXRdmXkJxcNIPU4qO8O6S64_u6YxREg5dM0FS7V9Czxfc2bq0YfRFbJuUaAp5qv/s1600/elna.jpg" /></a></div>
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This was a time for buying a sewing machine, no doubt. Lot s of advertisements to introduce Americans to this Swiss company. The competition must have been fierce. In my house alone I have several sewing machines made at this time. So many new families just starting out after the WWII. The pressure for innovation made for some great results, the Elna Supermatic was a good example of this.<br />
<br />
<b>Technical details</b><br />
<br />
*Low shank. That means it will take all those fun things like 1/4" foot and walking foot.<br />
*Uses 15x1 Needles<br />
*Uses "Elna" bobbins, available at fabric stores.<br />
* Works best when oiled properly. Will be noisy of you don't. <br />
*The Supermatic comes with a knee control.<br />
I do not like those, but it does save floor space. Many people love the knee control, however. As far as I know, it was not offered with a foot control. Not a big deal. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF2y2NDdeRvl9aGYvK868yItm_GAiD9G6rWxZuxY1MDa4AuerDoqVk30Ai5A8OsIzSVW3DwHl9S5Wr56L-eDiCBh1nzC9YpzSd2xXh2C6VCU96xPtLpeikuBE_mDeU69FQPiiKrinMC5JU/s1600/IMG_0215.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF2y2NDdeRvl9aGYvK868yItm_GAiD9G6rWxZuxY1MDa4AuerDoqVk30Ai5A8OsIzSVW3DwHl9S5Wr56L-eDiCBh1nzC9YpzSd2xXh2C6VCU96xPtLpeikuBE_mDeU69FQPiiKrinMC5JU/s320/IMG_0215.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bobbin is inserted behind the presser foot.</td></tr>
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The only part that was a bit of a mystery to me when I first brought it home was this: How do the discs work? Do you need them to do zig zag? There were no discs with my machine when I got it so this was not a problem but lo and behold I found a whole box of them later. They are a mix, some from a later Elna and some from a Supermatic. To answer the main question in my mind back then: Yes, you do need a disc for zig zag.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb6FvvMcUskoT7N31rfjS90TvXzRdsig0Eh-GErUkErtm7It73BxGvmphmjD1UNxWBIi6cI6xF0Hs4NBTr04iNthtVbuFRdB25BHw04Wkz9bpC0B0oWZ9n9ktj2lW6eztwaJrb_lfTHJQg/s1600/IMG_0218.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb6FvvMcUskoT7N31rfjS90TvXzRdsig0Eh-GErUkErtm7It73BxGvmphmjD1UNxWBIi6cI6xF0Hs4NBTr04iNthtVbuFRdB25BHw04Wkz9bpC0B0oWZ9n9ktj2lW6eztwaJrb_lfTHJQg/s320/IMG_0218.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Single and Double Discs. Lots of them.</td></tr>
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That brings me to a similar topic. You can use presser feet from later Elnas and Cams as well. They do fit and work fine.<br />
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<b>How to use the Discs</b><br />
I write this as it did cause me some trouble at first. Maybe this will help someone. <br />
Set the stitch length and width to "0". The manual says to do this, and that is to make room to set the disc in correctly. I can't tell you how many tries I made before actually breaking down and reading that very thing, and then it worked perfectly (sigh).<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGJJ5QzD1gu58X-3e1SaMhlvi9Ku6Lvl10z9rQfaNBkJXvkxmGWUEVSNg5vCl6KL6c0dvpCvrWMiF_ABkSQ0KTzEn_t_FOiX9hxaQw1z5_BqKtEOiN5utYtqESeCgT06Chd3P8FLlz4hfj/s1600/IMG_0217.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGJJ5QzD1gu58X-3e1SaMhlvi9Ku6Lvl10z9rQfaNBkJXvkxmGWUEVSNg5vCl6KL6c0dvpCvrWMiF_ABkSQ0KTzEn_t_FOiX9hxaQw1z5_BqKtEOiN5utYtqESeCgT06Chd3P8FLlz4hfj/s320/IMG_0217.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Set to "0"</td></tr>
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Unscrew the plastic/ bakelite nut on the shaft or Elnagraph.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHKbHDjur90d_em4NDP4tn7fGnKfIMVFzIQNp5oONF8nKDv62gAcmCdEfGYtxeldG-xL_CfivyhUh01tMKFWVohB_osPGdy5iNAZmCPyoMziOCWQg4ExPUCc3AstxDrOqVhkkEogI4CecT/s1600/IMG_0212.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHKbHDjur90d_em4NDP4tn7fGnKfIMVFzIQNp5oONF8nKDv62gAcmCdEfGYtxeldG-xL_CfivyhUh01tMKFWVohB_osPGdy5iNAZmCPyoMziOCWQg4ExPUCc3AstxDrOqVhkkEogI4CecT/s320/IMG_0212.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This knob is removable.</td></tr>
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Place the new disc onto the shaft, matching up the little pin on the vase to your disc's hole. It will snap into place. Replace the bakelite nut, it must be on tightly.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR6L3PGM0Q-CaAYriLpImG5LpEmW1RxxzXdznDKOHq0Tw1vimnxI2rL1C65AHLX7N4JY9NcBVSeP2RcUxmgUyg2SWKowZwxDOfS3muyOIV67s2LfodA3jN32HtQzZdYGS5RW0bFzTxTYsB/s1600/IMG_0219.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR6L3PGM0Q-CaAYriLpImG5LpEmW1RxxzXdznDKOHq0Tw1vimnxI2rL1C65AHLX7N4JY9NcBVSeP2RcUxmgUyg2SWKowZwxDOfS3muyOIV67s2LfodA3jN32HtQzZdYGS5RW0bFzTxTYsB/s320/IMG_0219.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">What the stitches look like</td></tr>
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Now you can sew as normal. Like any cam, it takes a little experimentation as to how long a stitch or width you like. Here is an example.</div>
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To remove, bring it back to "0" on both settings. Unscrew the nut and remove the discs. I use a screwdriver head very gently as my machine does not have it's disc lifter accessory. You will need something to help. When it is loose, I use my hands to get it out.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-sRqS0HgIz87DfAhuwuJE3HreRlLGHvQ4Amp8OD7BM3x0mmnQ_swUq4nUXXZYxFu2JbZTPfg_x-glJcIsu_FIT7vtnlZjIIGdRmNr2mt_yr13aZWzf7hUEB9Ko80SYquWbAkMUa89gSqL/s1600/IMG_0213.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-sRqS0HgIz87DfAhuwuJE3HreRlLGHvQ4Amp8OD7BM3x0mmnQ_swUq4nUXXZYxFu2JbZTPfg_x-glJcIsu_FIT7vtnlZjIIGdRmNr2mt_yr13aZWzf7hUEB9Ko80SYquWbAkMUa89gSqL/s320/IMG_0213.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Be very careful, set to "0" again and lift.</td></tr>
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Done!</div>
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<b>The Case</b></div>
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The case is so cool, I have to show it. It is almost as heavy as the machine is, and become a table by folding it origami style.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKlM4FFWtPLrf8e_Ut-P7WXL9qrJ8iR8U9cXR1K3pXmXupEdxU8ailCjU6RxmFOSW0jWVf53N3I7HN1WsTafl8ztZdSDRmOTHpW2pmnWkdZAHqQ7fBPitl9TgsPyoHPNVzgxJNe00Ttk1S/s1600/IMG_0223.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKlM4FFWtPLrf8e_Ut-P7WXL9qrJ8iR8U9cXR1K3pXmXupEdxU8ailCjU6RxmFOSW0jWVf53N3I7HN1WsTafl8ztZdSDRmOTHpW2pmnWkdZAHqQ7fBPitl9TgsPyoHPNVzgxJNe00Ttk1S/s320/IMG_0223.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sturdy table from the case.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh0PjnXrDg4kAOjT-saAkjW_xtMOhLiCOA-bPb-6CEKIu-pt3tFLo8ua80F-PN_SxjRKhxp0EIA3NBdPP8Tlyo86wvxZ5db3dRT7utyKZ3fLgGi6nf56Pnjlpid_RQ3VgId0tbY4Fyu8BF/s1600/IMG_0224.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh0PjnXrDg4kAOjT-saAkjW_xtMOhLiCOA-bPb-6CEKIu-pt3tFLo8ua80F-PN_SxjRKhxp0EIA3NBdPP8Tlyo86wvxZ5db3dRT7utyKZ3fLgGi6nf56Pnjlpid_RQ3VgId0tbY4Fyu8BF/s320/IMG_0224.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Very nice travel case.</td></tr>
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<b>Problem</b></div>
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The Supermatic has a pretty good reputation but also a flaw many people come up against. I was one of those people. If left for a long time, the friction pulley can become flat on the side. That doesn't stop the machine but will make it very ....and I mean VERY loud. Like a helicopter. Thankfully there is a fix for this. I got a rental tool and a part from White Sewing Center:</div>
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<a href="http://whitesewingcenter.com/elnaparts.php">Elna Parts </a></div>
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If you are in this predicament, do not give up, try this. There are many other things for older Elna's there too.</div>
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<b>In Summary</b></div>
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There are many sewing machine that are more smooth and quiet. That said, this beauty is more versatile than most vintage sewing machines. With the stretch stitch discs it is comparable to most sewing machines made into the 1980's. It can handle all sorts of modern threads with no problem. It is not terribly strong, but does very well with garment fabrics from denim to batiste. Fun to use, simple and not fussy....... and it's green. What's not to love?</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghEEEY15fJYwuY03R_3PSy_KXz0PvMeRVLuAD3dDnUq3f47C2BPTeG2-NWM2-PYR-xVFi3ouEFi3SxV_No-yW43VC01IZRiG_KDB13sJw_TM0GVmzfOCiZbm3A_RdtyFnTx1qopc9Mdfhx/s1600/IMG_0221.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghEEEY15fJYwuY03R_3PSy_KXz0PvMeRVLuAD3dDnUq3f47C2BPTeG2-NWM2-PYR-xVFi3ouEFi3SxV_No-yW43VC01IZRiG_KDB13sJw_TM0GVmzfOCiZbm3A_RdtyFnTx1qopc9Mdfhx/s320/IMG_0221.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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</div>yarndivahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10132680063667909853noreply@blogger.com87tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7714166932152347946.post-56069928688876589132011-09-01T08:40:00.000-07:002016-10-11T10:11:58.700-07:00The Improved Eldredge Rotary Sewing Machine<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeEunSGFio5TvFjSkehoqF6y_H2367F_aak8IWsXBMN6zWTHwlp2qRAvfsZ0mowxqLVPB4ipm2h3Ot-UY7MyIdht8xu2S1lPJlM3ZrIswbM-dKpRkluEfNnNWB5-9kDl9bxy-cQPYvopwO/s1600/IMG_0204.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeEunSGFio5TvFjSkehoqF6y_H2367F_aak8IWsXBMN6zWTHwlp2qRAvfsZ0mowxqLVPB4ipm2h3Ot-UY7MyIdht8xu2S1lPJlM3ZrIswbM-dKpRkluEfNnNWB5-9kDl9bxy-cQPYvopwO/s320/IMG_0204.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZD_UZZkmQAKm1my2sJSyIjZbkt3hhAhyphenhyphenslXZF_U41H0g3mhl8A8sB86E8Lv6UWvut7cVm1Y8cGEoPgbHUq6yvg-bIZcjlEPNkpvMM6B8pqGN8hFqctwcAx729w_1G4xBYv-TJGZs1YvDy/s1600/IMG_0201.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZD_UZZkmQAKm1my2sJSyIjZbkt3hhAhyphenhyphenslXZF_U41H0g3mhl8A8sB86E8Lv6UWvut7cVm1Y8cGEoPgbHUq6yvg-bIZcjlEPNkpvMM6B8pqGN8hFqctwcAx729w_1G4xBYv-TJGZs1YvDy/s320/IMG_0201.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Improved Eldredge Rotary Sewing Machine</td></tr>
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Here she is, my first vintage sewing machine. To place this in time, I bought this in a thrift shop in San Luis Obispo shortly after I got married. I thought it was a cool little desk. When trying to get in my car it seemed a bit heavy but no problem I got it home. It was only when I went through the drawers did I note there was a manual in there and realized it was a sewing machine cabinet. By golly, there was a sewing machine tucked inside! How far I have come. <br />
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May I introduce you to the Improved Eldredge Rotary. It is a sewing machine worth noting, as I do see these on occassion so they are still out there. This model was made in the mid 1930's but I have yet found no confirmation on the actual date. Eldredge at this point was affiliated with National Sewing Machines, and it bears much similarity. The decals on this machine has been seen on other makes, notably the Greybar made by Free Westinghouse. It is very "Art Deco". Here is a close up of the pillar design again:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQa501R9pEGulEv9XmB_SgkZGbgU_UBwaq-Jhf_VIGzuvXvIrJkK_idfZ7k6cpcxVKFtPwBb9VdPTfISadhY-Ahqv8M3lEpSqL23r44t-ATt-ZpE0F7kVU5mw4bERNVinyEztjk8U5Vnpu/s1600/IMG_0204.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQa501R9pEGulEv9XmB_SgkZGbgU_UBwaq-Jhf_VIGzuvXvIrJkK_idfZ7k6cpcxVKFtPwBb9VdPTfISadhY-Ahqv8M3lEpSqL23r44t-ATt-ZpE0F7kVU5mw4bERNVinyEztjk8U5Vnpu/s320/IMG_0204.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHVZbeVEhUBcthV0Y1rWF5CPqF0uY1pmJ1c2F8XKZ2KnadlQL4qdI610JPd7yvSdDEDGt6O4I2KEZJL7rsfW0TpfYY2CcZ4KLV1nTy01EklZPRVleUPlFgqBtyQQ1v10jxFNYgPKmMLECQ/s1600/IMG_0205.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHVZbeVEhUBcthV0Y1rWF5CPqF0uY1pmJ1c2F8XKZ2KnadlQL4qdI610JPd7yvSdDEDGt6O4I2KEZJL7rsfW0TpfYY2CcZ4KLV1nTy01EklZPRVleUPlFgqBtyQQ1v10jxFNYgPKmMLECQ/s320/IMG_0205.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Manual, attachment box, one of the hemmers, bobbin case and bobbin.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMefWyyB2N3nm7iY2kt4GXyuE-Edw45PcAeEzf4-p3WjgW6VduUFAZ0tblFLTbgGRGMXPb5p19u61C_e0CsCsbJh2diRdjIyFFog_hXle4YJPf0s4Ty4iWm5RAWv_AycjzPOH8PFFUEzRc/s1600/IMG_0206.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMefWyyB2N3nm7iY2kt4GXyuE-Edw45PcAeEzf4-p3WjgW6VduUFAZ0tblFLTbgGRGMXPb5p19u61C_e0CsCsbJh2diRdjIyFFog_hXle4YJPf0s4Ty4iWm5RAWv_AycjzPOH8PFFUEzRc/s320/IMG_0206.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Love this illustration, a girl with bobbed hair.</td></tr>
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This machine came with a full set of attachments, bobbins and manual. The attachment set are the basic rotary type made by Greist. They are very high quality and have managed to stay perfect despite being in my damp former home near the ocean on California's Central coast. If you need a source for bobbins and needles, here is where I get mine. <br />
The bobbins can be ordered online here: <a href="http://sewingandvac.com/resultspart.asp?keywrd=eldredge+bobbin&pagesize=25">Eldredge Rotary Bobbins</a><br />
It takes a less common needle, as Nationals do. The size is 20x1 and can be found here:<br />
<a href="http://www.sewingshop.com/singerindustrialmachineneedles-20x1.aspx">20x1 Needles</a><br />
A manual if your machine did not come with one or you cannot find one: <br />
<a href="https://goo.gl/photos/nhq6gtzdHT88oJ6z8">Improved Eldredge Rotary Manual</a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1saiECkv1rRLy6yptQ_L_6fKlxHfo4wUuEPo0RKKbkPbRwf50qCFA4_tjjhPcS3CT3KE02_g-cUKZqmuRDXg1vwFNHm42WjX2HyeXJONmmUHGMLZlXmCQh-Ug6P9sI82RfbZLFUGU9xX8/s1600/IMG_0202.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1saiECkv1rRLy6yptQ_L_6fKlxHfo4wUuEPo0RKKbkPbRwf50qCFA4_tjjhPcS3CT3KE02_g-cUKZqmuRDXg1vwFNHm42WjX2HyeXJONmmUHGMLZlXmCQh-Ug6P9sI82RfbZLFUGU9xX8/s320/IMG_0202.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The standout feature of this machine and other Eldredge machines I have seen is the beauty of the cabinets. There are others, and they are all really nice. This particular one, like the machine itself, also has a Art Deco feel. Check out these drawer pulls!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBWi5005NaOA2qnj6LQDE7MBZ3HRF82n3fhN-GMT2TlJrS8DNeEqUGtUp4m4Ik9f5LU10Be1RGNUA8ojxoIlTKgsXAIAT8LDV9mEbvixu9NRduBXavNc7IrFvg0HEaFCQn7VeFDJ_ffEV7/s1600/IMG_0203.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBWi5005NaOA2qnj6LQDE7MBZ3HRF82n3fhN-GMT2TlJrS8DNeEqUGtUp4m4Ik9f5LU10Be1RGNUA8ojxoIlTKgsXAIAT8LDV9mEbvixu9NRduBXavNc7IrFvg0HEaFCQn7VeFDJ_ffEV7/s320/IMG_0203.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bakelite insert</td></tr>
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Using the Eldredge is much like other sewing machines but there are a few little things that are worth mentioning. The thread path is a bit longer than most and so take care to check to make sure you are doing it right. Because it has a few extra stops on the way, I always pull the top thread way out before starting a seam. This machine has slipped it's thread more than any other. This thread path set up does seem to have an advantage in that the tension is very sensitive. This makes it able to handle all sorts of thread. The one I like best is the clear nylon thread used for quilt tops. It also handles very heavy thread like the yellow jean top stitch thread. It is also is deceptively strong, it does not look like it would but this one can sew through heavier material quite well.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4-HH1vL4fGFUmGC5awlb8mEYPk9x6Tp_Il7DLRbAatqJs1fm3EudqRFdmvnhi1v1RmiB3xdpnxGUnICgLES0uA59f1DHEg7-KdcYiHmHdij4xMNvC1jtmvC7zRl-8sDjxU-wjCVHamftv/s1600/IMG_0207.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4-HH1vL4fGFUmGC5awlb8mEYPk9x6Tp_Il7DLRbAatqJs1fm3EudqRFdmvnhi1v1RmiB3xdpnxGUnICgLES0uA59f1DHEg7-KdcYiHmHdij4xMNvC1jtmvC7zRl-8sDjxU-wjCVHamftv/s320/IMG_0207.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stitch samples</td></tr>
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The stitches are adjusted by a sliding knob on the side, another different feature. It is numbered from 1 to 10. Number 1 being the longest stitch. It is really long too, perfect for basting.<br />
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The strait stitch presser foot sews a perfect 1/4 inch. That, combined with large area to the right (harp space) and the ability to handle the nylon thread makes the Eldredge Rotary a good quilter. The elegant style makes using it all the better. <br />
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<br />yarndivahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10132680063667909853noreply@blogger.com55tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7714166932152347946.post-79095598056890369962011-08-07T16:07:00.000-07:002011-08-07T16:08:28.511-07:00Fabric Shopping On Holiday<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9hPpALo-BGqxdi2iUrEmo2Oo6D-7VHRf71_lysp-TNcGwA5GQmdTyUw58I_4u8awz9GtqaXXC0Wn-WFCa1Pd0YQh99KzkUU8-7n32RLZNgZfONTTLTItm9EU5IOLzCqMkSzq4DafxLdt7/s1600/IMG_0097.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9hPpALo-BGqxdi2iUrEmo2Oo6D-7VHRf71_lysp-TNcGwA5GQmdTyUw58I_4u8awz9GtqaXXC0Wn-WFCa1Pd0YQh99KzkUU8-7n32RLZNgZfONTTLTItm9EU5IOLzCqMkSzq4DafxLdt7/s320/IMG_0097.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inspiring fabrics</td></tr>
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I am sure I am not the only one who does this: Buying fabric while on vacation. My luggage was stuffed on the way home. This time I thought I'd share one of my favorite spots to indulge this desire. In my opinion, there is no better style of print than the Hawaiian style. I can't get enough of it. I am not from Hawaii, either. Love it- love it -love it. Love it when it's just yardage, love it when it's a shirt, love it vintage, love it as a dress, love it on any age or size of man and especially on a good hula dancer.<br />
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If you are interested and find yourself in Hawaii, my recommendation is to seek out a good fabric store, such as Fabric Mart. Inexpensive fabric is just a bonus it's the selection that is so fun. They are also online but not going into the shop is like reading a description of a "Loco Moco" and not ever eating a plate of it. (FYI: <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Loco_moco">Loco Moco </a> ). Make a day of Hawaiian comfort fabric and Hawaiian comfort food. Fabric Mart in Maui is in Kahului. Loco Moco is everywhere.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFjwzwbbBAkFMpCvcEv8gmy2_GXNbM0_MWtKn0abWIRU_HSqQaUIj07YoJYPsKhgEEVweggStafy-X9msi8JmS8RAEXM-u_Pf8kZs9rmULKFVnVweAtpqOuhzBGE83QFIm-ePV4uac2XHT/s1600/IMG_0067.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFjwzwbbBAkFMpCvcEv8gmy2_GXNbM0_MWtKn0abWIRU_HSqQaUIj07YoJYPsKhgEEVweggStafy-X9msi8JmS8RAEXM-u_Pf8kZs9rmULKFVnVweAtpqOuhzBGE83QFIm-ePV4uac2XHT/s320/IMG_0067.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The location of Fabric Mart in Maui</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6hQeSQ7IW2FTZhRjcbftJbJc3EsKdCfiYcWtfRRUH1T1flUpv5VFD8nR0wsQ1HqHjrtGrgOhPVxUoMLYx5Uy1yxQlHfBCLQp7UwY6QSlRAv343ybGvyItH97LUZSiZpe5h09qTBjca9Om/s1600/IMG_0069.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6hQeSQ7IW2FTZhRjcbftJbJc3EsKdCfiYcWtfRRUH1T1flUpv5VFD8nR0wsQ1HqHjrtGrgOhPVxUoMLYx5Uy1yxQlHfBCLQp7UwY6QSlRAv343ybGvyItH97LUZSiZpe5h09qTBjca9Om/s320/IMG_0069.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>Had to throw this in, on the way back from fabric shopping this was the car next to us....."Howzit brah?"yarndivahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10132680063667909853noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7714166932152347946.post-38749882433904154712011-07-05T09:31:00.000-07:002012-05-12T13:52:03.356-07:00The "Famous" Buttonhole Worker<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5GOXLmDfaAlWiCxF9lUF2nEM5SbqJqLcLv7J_6SO6cdPtrS0s7V2nR5aBOFYwbzOZm8gPKM9kz1b0PPBMbx3I2-vlY6hdVdjAiO1iBBeMtc93_fLJvkdz3ZB_GxZzx-_HapeD0ziBZrmy/s1600/P6250016.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5GOXLmDfaAlWiCxF9lUF2nEM5SbqJqLcLv7J_6SO6cdPtrS0s7V2nR5aBOFYwbzOZm8gPKM9kz1b0PPBMbx3I2-vlY6hdVdjAiO1iBBeMtc93_fLJvkdz3ZB_GxZzx-_HapeD0ziBZrmy/s320/P6250016.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
I saw one of these and had to get it. What a contraption. I use <a href="http://silkmothsewing.blogspot.com/2010/11/old-fashioned-good-idea-buttonholer.html">Singer's buttonholer</a> a lot and am familiar with the concept of how those work. How about this one? What is different about it? Does it do a good job? Is it easy to use? My search for information came up with nothing. That means I better figure it out myself and post some information for others who may also have one of these. Now that I've had it for a while it's time to shed some light on it.<br />
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This type of buttonhole maker has been around for a long time, since 1895. They were marketed by several companies ending with Greist and Singer through the 1950's. That's when buttonholers with templates came into popular use. They are still made today for industrial machines by YS Star. There are still lots of vintage ones out in circulation. I can see why. They are a heavy and sturdy accessory. Nothing dainty about it.<br />
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<i>How does it work?</i><br />
The buttonholer fits over the needle clamp and onto the presser bar. The one I have is for a low shank sewing machine and is shown on a Singer 201, a flat bed. There are adjustment screws on the sides for setting the width of the hole opening and the stitch width. An adjustment screw on the back sets the stitch length and another single screws sets the stitch density. Like other buttonholers the fabric is moved to make the button hole. Clickety clack clickety clack!<i> </i><br />
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<i>Making the Buttonholer Work:</i><br />
1. Remove Presser foot. Place the cover plate on the sewing machine bed. Make sure the needle goes into the small hole strait on.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6BNyF8Z2liDk4q83pKKk_nUqiOx4OI3-5bIXKa0uXR2FIYVNZKiGn07MrHg0EK_kwgx3yJ59tfr5V-eqLAelJAFpUslc7U_Mj_gz0cV6dMIGU8Q0GWDykjuYNUdvJQO_9T9AEs-uAq_3U/s1600/P6250013.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6BNyF8Z2liDk4q83pKKk_nUqiOx4OI3-5bIXKa0uXR2FIYVNZKiGn07MrHg0EK_kwgx3yJ59tfr5V-eqLAelJAFpUslc7U_Mj_gz0cV6dMIGU8Q0GWDykjuYNUdvJQO_9T9AEs-uAq_3U/s320/P6250013.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cover plate placement.</td></tr>
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2. Place the buttonholer hook on the needle clamp at the same time setting it against the presser bar.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsTWRi6gfftZ7auIJaUuiR7c2HWBelZ1DIFn_8HN1KYPXw6fzDDX08aFWsTvxlhdoPM1fRNkRSt7SUe_0RrhnOotEmg9sfDUpgOGL0RZcI-CSlhyfgdlkCMH2GF2MgKAf2MG5_tPU2Q_si/s1600/P6250004.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsTWRi6gfftZ7auIJaUuiR7c2HWBelZ1DIFn_8HN1KYPXw6fzDDX08aFWsTvxlhdoPM1fRNkRSt7SUe_0RrhnOotEmg9sfDUpgOGL0RZcI-CSlhyfgdlkCMH2GF2MgKAf2MG5_tPU2Q_si/s320/P6250004.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Turn wing thumb screw towards you.</td></tr>
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3. Turn the side wing nut towards you, until it gets to the front and left. That's the beginning of the buttonhole. ( It will form the buttonhole backwards from there.)<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiGWM-HoBAECzYk2xUAE-D9vdNVBKxnRFvolJlg5ajyJKrHO7CS5IvF0_jMdAeg8PnD39svnE6h4H8AwboOpRXGQE5k0eWQSrGNl8GSsYI6d_8f5hMJyNm8IWCE2ENmjFQTS4NUATiZWzX/s1600/P6250005.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiGWM-HoBAECzYk2xUAE-D9vdNVBKxnRFvolJlg5ajyJKrHO7CS5IvF0_jMdAeg8PnD39svnE6h4H8AwboOpRXGQE5k0eWQSrGNl8GSsYI6d_8f5hMJyNm8IWCE2ENmjFQTS4NUATiZWzX/s320/P6250005.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Needle placement</td></tr>
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4. Stitch as normal, I go kind of fast and keep the fabric taut.<br />
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<i>Making Adjustments:</i><br />
This model is adjusted by screws.<br />
<b>Set the Length of hole.</b><br />
<b> </b>To set the length of the buttonhole move the screw at the back. I have found that it's easier to do this by marking your fabric sample and holding it up to the opening. Loosen screw and move it down or up to correspond to the marks. The measurement should include the screw itself. The buttonhole length will equal the opening (from the top) including the diameter of the screw open space you see. The maximum is 3/4. Larger lengths are done in two parts, well described in it's manual so I'll leave it out from here.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi9yj-ynfz29RQvn6F-16BioftvMcDbrRkTbELO4G1tHDomRvd1PzVdVfwLAzOJNt-Rtxm4cdj_CbFt2JRz0YqVM53hS8pWcG5uTe1LAgQFYi8u7iBEsYb4nttpQ4uTfuP8riSQfz9seJZ/s1600/P6250019.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi9yj-ynfz29RQvn6F-16BioftvMcDbrRkTbELO4G1tHDomRvd1PzVdVfwLAzOJNt-Rtxm4cdj_CbFt2JRz0YqVM53hS8pWcG5uTe1LAgQFYi8u7iBEsYb4nttpQ4uTfuP8riSQfz9seJZ/s320/P6250019.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<b>Setting the Cutting Space Width.</b> The cutting space opening can be adjusted by loosening the screw and moving it. The "W" is for wider and "N" is for narrow. Experiment with this with the type of fabric you have. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNx02V9UqMWBOXwk_rMq8jUpjM-biIjcE3umOjhdvSvddbGpx6GS-qC1EGyU81UFAmzLRuyg9b-1VMS7rbi0-9qZZtZFbpKXnxF0N_iWEcmkiWRszNgge70A_wUy20InZzuxHLcoZexa7w/s1600/P6250018.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNx02V9UqMWBOXwk_rMq8jUpjM-biIjcE3umOjhdvSvddbGpx6GS-qC1EGyU81UFAmzLRuyg9b-1VMS7rbi0-9qZZtZFbpKXnxF0N_iWEcmkiWRszNgge70A_wUy20InZzuxHLcoZexa7w/s320/P6250018.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Adjusting the cutting space. It's set for cotton broadcloth now.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<b>Setting the Stitch Width:</b><br />
The stitch with or "bite" is adjusted much the same as the previous step. The change is that to make it bigger or wider, move the screw towards "<b> </b>W" for wide and towards "N" to narrow.<br />
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<b>Setting the Stitch Density:</b><br />
The density of the stitches can be adjusted by turning the screw on the side up or down. This is a very subtle adjustment so turn it down or up a little at a time. The way it is the photo is perfect for cottons.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwL6cvlTUMXm74IEyCih8dd8C96ZioXs3vdQBn6Qtad4Gcyr93Tp8vB5vOtZ997p1_99uEEJP1sU-XGTlxVqSTyAjsPRX-UL8Y0845Xuxct47e7bkWIa1qJ-OcQf2TTxkzqK5ksyaP0Sb-/s1600/P6250021.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwL6cvlTUMXm74IEyCih8dd8C96ZioXs3vdQBn6Qtad4Gcyr93Tp8vB5vOtZ997p1_99uEEJP1sU-XGTlxVqSTyAjsPRX-UL8Y0845Xuxct47e7bkWIa1qJ-OcQf2TTxkzqK5ksyaP0Sb-/s320/P6250021.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stitch density screw.</td></tr>
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<b> </b><br />
The buttonholer requires a lot of adjusting to get it right. You can't just plop in a cam and have it go. This makes testing very important. Here is an example of a few changes that come from changing the stitch width and bite. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgimr3HkkKGCbSPgTmZCTUE6cNNbB6eGTi1pigXKEFpUWOat8bWTuPpcBmxWbdPDPotjTrsUvgw1YBKTv1_DzaW0vFr6n8WcDcs1g2WpmqDquBnR30c8n_-H91hEUrHnMj827hSBZhFaL5F/s1600/P6250022.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgimr3HkkKGCbSPgTmZCTUE6cNNbB6eGTi1pigXKEFpUWOat8bWTuPpcBmxWbdPDPotjTrsUvgw1YBKTv1_DzaW0vFr6n8WcDcs1g2WpmqDquBnR30c8n_-H91hEUrHnMj827hSBZhFaL5F/s320/P6250022.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Just as with the Singer buttonholers, I suggest making a sample to keep with your attachment to refer to. As you can see there is a big difference between widths. The lengths shown are all the same.The most narrow bite is too small in my opinion. It snarls every time.<br />
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<i>Does it work well?</i><br />
This is not very easy to use. I have to be honest, it is more complicated than a template style one. The wing thumb screw can be hard to turn. That said it has one feature that is REALLY helpful. That is the ability to change the cutting space. There are few things more frustrating that making a buttonhole and having the hole be too small to cut and so threads are shredded. It can ruin your work, at the final step. That <i>horror </i>can be avoided with this buttonholer. For all the time spent in testing, it IS good to be able to adjust for variations in fabric density or type.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihzZ-7L1D7Ut0vs36tfTjWuuTL1VALmAELMUQcs2dqhLj_x_2kihDFjZZ7yRZVNOgPC6B1tB96mtdb32QRP9qFvyl6meC-pDlivJJE4hyIGUgTy4102lXcWKrdN00YeGW4owZ1pgtjHnur/s1600/P6250011.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihzZ-7L1D7Ut0vs36tfTjWuuTL1VALmAELMUQcs2dqhLj_x_2kihDFjZZ7yRZVNOgPC6B1tB96mtdb32QRP9qFvyl6meC-pDlivJJE4hyIGUgTy4102lXcWKrdN00YeGW4owZ1pgtjHnur/s320/P6250011.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Button hole samples</td></tr>
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<br />
The quality is OK but is improved with a bit of tear away stabilizer underneath. It works very well with heavier fabrics but has not been tested extensively on silks. My biggest complaint is that it is hard to make a hole larger than 3/4". It can be done but not easily - or at least easy for me. I do think this buttonholer has a place in your tool box and if you see one, think about getting it.<br />
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The one key feature it has is a good one, and that is the ability to customize. There is a certain inspiring quality as well, to see it in action. The ingenuity of people is amazing sometimes. The Famous Buttonholer is is a good example of that!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXUYQbzLQ9xy1CFiP0PtJzIHXjOKoK85yY3j_eWArn5jMJQSlBOE-J2EK51mvUguGlSsKsYcWdni6fWBvp0jZAZblGlO_hhyucNchCqPJf_YyW1sYoC5R5F7qRVCiYEX9UCpz0ZFvvC1le/s1600/P6250009.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXUYQbzLQ9xy1CFiP0PtJzIHXjOKoK85yY3j_eWArn5jMJQSlBOE-J2EK51mvUguGlSsKsYcWdni6fWBvp0jZAZblGlO_hhyucNchCqPJf_YyW1sYoC5R5F7qRVCiYEX9UCpz0ZFvvC1le/s320/P6250009.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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</tbody></table>yarndivahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10132680063667909853noreply@blogger.com27tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7714166932152347946.post-5435344067495446952011-06-27T18:10:00.000-07:002011-07-16T09:46:16.538-07:00Knitting Pretty in 1935 and 2011<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN9d3wlht6FsazASjQUfYZpuVKJE79O4nB9ClfDvVmiKVDOylibjSpHa8pGivAug0MJ6MdLQG2mfvp1bpF8HSy3w_G9dT0YY5NaeU3hWGR6dLn7fWzNwaEpCmxe-dxBfSR0zdbagZCEv3k/s1600/image0.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN9d3wlht6FsazASjQUfYZpuVKJE79O4nB9ClfDvVmiKVDOylibjSpHa8pGivAug0MJ6MdLQG2mfvp1bpF8HSy3w_G9dT0YY5NaeU3hWGR6dLn7fWzNwaEpCmxe-dxBfSR0zdbagZCEv3k/s320/image0.jpg" width="247" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I chose the lower left sweater</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_Xcg2ZXrk9Vc03RC8FyUNL3lV3iLl7oD_k1kJQvEklUqhG2UTc3Mh3RfPTEKx0jBZ487sGfDVR1-Ag6BxWBcH0gSuOsVnTboQXlsEjYbI12Atmj9bn8Wq8avyjH3Ft-tVpBztdxpGy2u_/s1600/P6180021.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_Xcg2ZXrk9Vc03RC8FyUNL3lV3iLl7oD_k1kJQvEklUqhG2UTc3Mh3RfPTEKx0jBZ487sGfDVR1-Ag6BxWBcH0gSuOsVnTboQXlsEjYbI12Atmj9bn8Wq8avyjH3Ft-tVpBztdxpGy2u_/s320/P6180021.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">2011 version made with soft cotton</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
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</tbody></table>There are so many things in this world that seem to be so old and dated at first glance but really are timeless. Knitting is one of those things. The stitches are the same, much of the shapes are the same and even the materials themselves are similar. We still knit with needles and use yarn. Yarns change with style, patterns reflect fashion and tools come and go but the basics remain. Knit and purl anyone?<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div> <br />
People who sew and knit are fortunate in that there are many patterns available from earlier times just waiting to be rediscovered. I have been quietly collecting them for many years. It's a nice little adventure to make up a vintage pattern and see it come to life. If you have never done this, I suggest giving yourself an excuse to do it.yarndivahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10132680063667909853noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7714166932152347946.post-69402307441776632442011-06-16T13:29:00.000-07:002011-06-16T13:29:47.041-07:00Washing a Big Cut of Fabic<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlvuJZf0DBIMLpI_py9ma-PJGOB53bLuqa_KtGFmBCBirQgFGXw_qcdKJoLY4CdimJQDNxAXSmwEs963cQxyUapNxWHf5g3oaq8G_EGStRk6pamCmQ-64udmNDhD50goqZZSHVwDsWH5C2/s1600/P6030001-1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlvuJZf0DBIMLpI_py9ma-PJGOB53bLuqa_KtGFmBCBirQgFGXw_qcdKJoLY4CdimJQDNxAXSmwEs963cQxyUapNxWHf5g3oaq8G_EGStRk6pamCmQ-64udmNDhD50goqZZSHVwDsWH5C2/s320/P6030001-1.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
My gosh, I got this helpful hint recently and had to share it. Forgive me I do not know the name of the person who wrote this but they are a member of Treadle On. For those who do not know, that is a group of people who use treadle and hand crank sewing machines. I went to them years ago for help when I could find it no where else. Usually if I sought help with such a machine I got a a horrified look and a comment such as "You actually use that old thing? Get a new one!" I recommend this group. Here is a link to the main website:<br />
<a href="http://www.treadleon.net/">Treadle On's Website</a><br />
Often there is very helpful advice on the email group about topics related to sewing techniques in general. <br />
Sometimes we sew for years by ourselves and so never hear the great solutions to common problems we all have. <br />
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Here is such a problem: How can I wash a big or heavy piece of fabric without it tangling up in the washer and dryer?<br />
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This is a common problem for me as I use upholstery fabrics often for uses other than furniture. They can be coats or bags but it's nice to pre-wash them for any future cleaning. What a mess they can become in the process. Here's a solution.<br />
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Sew the ends and pin the corners before washing. It works, here is how to do it in pictures. The fabric is a heavy cotton 60" width and 5 yards in length.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM7ImJ3r4QZBj_E-tZXDSSfl0bO85CEUnjEi-tycOCWH4giVBmtiLLacCAakvymbHx4tmzESwjNml6RT35GM7scROafJqfhEdteCm4kGprfMLLgYMDT-eu7zQrYxnNlyXB-Q1PSTi-0J1D/s1600/P5280001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM7ImJ3r4QZBj_E-tZXDSSfl0bO85CEUnjEi-tycOCWH4giVBmtiLLacCAakvymbHx4tmzESwjNml6RT35GM7scROafJqfhEdteCm4kGprfMLLgYMDT-eu7zQrYxnNlyXB-Q1PSTi-0J1D/s320/P5280001.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Zigzag cut edges.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvJarMUmxvsWgF2Irb3nC1zyZZke8Zjp6YS88dAfNX8qRviC3-ZbS6BmkyDj_DFMw1qkVF9ERq5R4tPQHlnTjRgqs0xmqkhA-y4XN2pb0R1kUJ1uhomXjw03R_ysyP7I022UYKBWgXbrFG/s1600/P5280003.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvJarMUmxvsWgF2Irb3nC1zyZZke8Zjp6YS88dAfNX8qRviC3-ZbS6BmkyDj_DFMw1qkVF9ERq5R4tPQHlnTjRgqs0xmqkhA-y4XN2pb0R1kUJ1uhomXjw03R_ysyP7I022UYKBWgXbrFG/s320/P5280003.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fold and pin. You can have several layers like this if needed.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh-E0zGjOsVh2ey5YqbfzYD-qC7xF11hIqAViTMHElu5udWvrhIAHKcNDE1KlJNXkHgcKaWPHnuFH_NuISAwial22_CpVUoOwxS69wWWYG9rl3vo3QD5h2orfVi00uwJQR1hcsdT_oCUZY/s1600/P5280007.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh-E0zGjOsVh2ey5YqbfzYD-qC7xF11hIqAViTMHElu5udWvrhIAHKcNDE1KlJNXkHgcKaWPHnuFH_NuISAwial22_CpVUoOwxS69wWWYG9rl3vo3QD5h2orfVi00uwJQR1hcsdT_oCUZY/s320/P5280007.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wash and dry with pins in place.</td></tr>
</tbody></table> Comes out great, no raveling no tangled fabric in the dryer! That means less, or in this case, no ironing the fabric for use. Yay!yarndivahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10132680063667909853noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7714166932152347946.post-44159362952190335012011-06-13T12:37:00.001-07:002012-01-14T14:44:43.384-08:00Embroidery with a Willcox & Gibbs<div align="center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTNQHK2q2kuZEHrTuD3HU_bK5RWLCV-ZiluZj6idUIOTFWhLKspVLEupOmjaQJrJHp9YOMzg8SEIVOaqfwUSlGnuEPYXkdwRBAJ_DG26OH8uv_d5koS3csl4Tlve4yZuA1u63rlODd2E4m/s1600-h/P5260018%25255B6%25255D.jpg"><img alt="P5260018" border="0" height="184" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVElz_5w0Bm1shUFGk00gVKlXoUZ7hRLSG7oidAIKqQ9pvHi7SOAIulcVNPzGQ0MCagpdKGdUlHy6p4DB9xeV5HNu4RXSj1vySkVx0iduoW689RMV_wdXqHmOGpbDFeQATJFR2HK36dsEx/?imgmax=800" style="border-width: 0px; display: inline;" title="P5260018" width="244" /></a> </div>Just a quick post about the Willcox and Gibbs I wrote about here: <br />
<a href="http://silkmothsewing.blogspot.com/2010/11/silk-moth-sewing.html">Willcox and Gibbs Chainstitch Sewing Machine</a> <br />
I mentioned before that these machines can do really nice embroidery if the underside is used. Mostly this has been done with tea towel and cotton muslin. Recently I gave it a try for decorating a back pocket on a pair of jeans I was making. Sometimes you just want to try something out of your comfort zone, right? Jeans was one of those times. I have never made a pair and so thought why not? I used Wild Ginger Boutique pattern making software to draft and create a design. I have had a version of this since 1992 and recently upgraded so gave this a shot. <br />
<div align="center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic8NRlze97bN8nnx1uwdxLorRqhstDLQUE9O5rLcFmX_WLBwT-fZpY2tz_eQXtpC23KSg1plAP3wA4D2zflgEtPQbvjsGudOVLq3qmfEtAX-CFdb6tlsFycpNGn0FoUIx3uwIGkz86_kwA/s1600-h/P5200006%25255B5%25255D.jpg"><img alt="Jeans Pattern Print Assembly" border="0" height="184" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq8dN4KR8vHd8anxRHgidqRz5OVmKeoOdyqQXstj66VO7PPdPh1bof4xqzbXlLlnL1HnWql9S2-tHejhXrQo0vo7ATvjK6vzkioX2PSrXTyrPzBqlkQyd-FBQ6lNKP5N2IcobN2f1PyRC5/?imgmax=800" style="border: 0px none; display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="Jeans Pattern Print Assembly" width="244" /></a> <span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>Jeans Pattern Print - Putting it Together</i></span>. </div>The pants came out OK, but the interesting part is how well the Willcox Gibbs did with denim. The machine is quite strong, no problem or hesitation whatsoever for this. It was one layer but still quite heavy. The thread is regular Guitermann rather than "Jeans" top stitching thread. <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRzATqOnKmUI_zBTZwEELKRrs2e2FP_DaCorcwWUx0WJV7U0DspesC9okh3SHjnp9rZDf2BiunGlRvCuPmXLqA30jRIeQ1U5dmBcdxfIPaJvmSWMJrYS0GpUrLfsy8Rj5Ers4x2vloJDYA/s1600-h/P5260021%25255B6%25255D.jpg"><img alt="P5260021" border="0" height="184" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaNqbKRsjY7z7qSomEjUNfLtKaBZl7P8PZ0M2NqjmOp6b1O30kncK9n2KLqm8ezhzK1x6FKi5ECwFv9IOjhjT8oeDrc51v4aFQlXG_hIqzmxzDrt-o2TK34LtHP60NK83KEnAH_TSPno0v/?imgmax=800" style="border: 0px none; display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="P5260021" width="244" /></a> <br />
Embroidery on the Willcox Gibbs is done on the wrong side of the fabric. It is the bottom chain that is so pretty. This can be a little tricky - designing in reverse. What is shown in this picture is the design drawn on the wrong side of the fabric then stitched. The actual stitching part is pretty easy. These electric versions are very fast so try hard to slow it all down for accuracy. <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX29UGavvABnsOV9afnvhUq7Zx2sYRTo9pmhqn3-YZyn9E3i7ecmqoaxdDybImsohI4SNjDP2Ksobaho4hXI-1uOEp1GgE1Ls_vjGqEPtpFWVHIPr0spd1kEgymKsj8pi-pyD4KT8iy9yS/s1600-h/P5260022%25255B6%25255D.jpg"><img alt="P5260022" border="0" height="184" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFeI-SmMeV8fZbBAhay3Ji2PiK-avsacyAc0y0spK7FO1knOauR8VgQOZ1uyTrAJ11DMt2Okbixsd7Fo9x4yjSORREEa43CSWxd3xWlfv06IaGGN-fFQ8bRFr7-bbiE0GkJK5nMaL8atUV/?imgmax=800" style="border: 0px none; display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="P5260022" width="244" /></a> <br />
When done, on the right side, thread the loose ends through a needle and pull to the underside. <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpxvIZhRVyVbZjJvhwCFezY25EKhGbSLHzcl13DYbmkLUQWiDezYokt5wwLuM22EPGpMJUiRG64Ox9LpEhQhw1BuK17Ey-50oesUwU4CAN-ZkIxSKmtb8NFrO7gmYeol0YYhACUuANH6po/s1600-h/P5260023%25255B6%25255D.jpg"><img alt="P5260023" border="0" height="184" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDUPDB90U6-k6E6lDrqu1WaGSZmZiJu0yESz87-Xz2SWyDfTSL0PkKtaplVo9Fb1WryrGStpLE0T_j7RGkXBR_kYHYcbbeEBAJw6yrtTEFj2wyLvranSHEHh6rEVr0j-8x6HahDrEijH8s/?imgmax=800" style="border: 0px none; display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="P5260023" width="244" /></a> <br />
On the underside, knot the loose ends. <br />
<img alt="P5280008" border="0" height="184" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyrNC41tPhZfSklxRf5XjNbzUNbywKXQOqyQk7NgI_BmOGDT2grI_f32FQqNibL3IhxIZ-unaISngYELZbDSaBVah1mHIsb9wY4FaKJreBdbroMHZyeUDEwBLKpDUapHSchiLWNPZaCnwB/?imgmax=800" style="border: 0px none; display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="P5280008" width="244" /> <br />
Here is one of the finished pockets. I know, it's weird but at the time seemed Ok to have an octopus on my jeans. The octopus is a favorite animal of mine and I have some great stories of their incredible intelligence but possibly another venue for my admiration next time. <br />
The chain stitch machine does this type of job very well and would be a good project suggestion for anyone who has one. I could also see technique used to make a tote bag design on heavy cotton. So much to do!yarndivahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10132680063667909853noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7714166932152347946.post-43788782278699366062011-06-12T15:37:00.000-07:002011-12-10T07:45:08.618-08:00The Singer Blind Stitch Attachment<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhogTQy_OLsehL3F7QrQJPyS7kIp3UQtvMuuv-w2hPIJR9oWhxzQWgtDPfz-bqcSJ5AF9pX9sJov368DrKz-K12kmQL9w3bzgM8bGbfLszx1ALiapoBYUbdvSFWcEcBb4t2kUdo9Jcg5Oe/s1600/P6030002.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhogTQy_OLsehL3F7QrQJPyS7kIp3UQtvMuuv-w2hPIJR9oWhxzQWgtDPfz-bqcSJ5AF9pX9sJov368DrKz-K12kmQL9w3bzgM8bGbfLszx1ALiapoBYUbdvSFWcEcBb4t2kUdo9Jcg5Oe/s320/P6030002.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<br />
This little thing has been an attachment I have avoided using for a long time. It came in a case with a sewing machine so it was a stow away. I'll be honest, I simply do not like to hem at all...anything. Being a "petite", hemming has been the bane of my fashion existence. Nearly every garment I have bought or made needs a hem adjustment. Ugh. Anyhoo........maybe this can make it easier? I'll discuss that and how to use it here.<br />
<br />
<b>Background Information:</b><br />
This is a low shank attachment. I am showing this on a Singer 221 (Featherweight). It should work the same on any strait stitch low shank such as the Singer 201, 15-91, 27,28, 127, 128 or 66 (except the back clampers). <br />
<br />
You will find it easier to use if you have a manual. You can find one here:<br />
<a href="http://www.ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/manuals/singer-blindstitch-attachment-manual.pdf">Singer Blind Stitch Attachment Manual</a><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYAPJNsn-TrQr6NU3QGjMYyg4RaflHOrr6Md4ljSSCbyWtlPfCVHkOyi3jm0Q6EBjle_WxMDnHFhEQPnkUnpL3_JTEXn7vykizw9JE1gcCiig3__BHESDinTRYTTaYJnltLJlbUtdWRBvO/s1600/P6030002-1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYAPJNsn-TrQr6NU3QGjMYyg4RaflHOrr6Md4ljSSCbyWtlPfCVHkOyi3jm0Q6EBjle_WxMDnHFhEQPnkUnpL3_JTEXn7vykizw9JE1gcCiig3__BHESDinTRYTTaYJnltLJlbUtdWRBvO/s320/P6030002-1.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Attaching the Blind Hemmer</td></tr>
</tbody></table> *raise the presser bar. Attach the blind hemmer by setting it on the presser bar at the same time hooking the fork through the needle clamp. Screw in place.<br />
<br />
<b>Helpful Hint:</b><br />
It is a very good idea to test this out before you sew on your garment. There may be an adjustment needed to the width of the "bite" of the stitch. That is made by moving the black metal part on the top of the presser foot of the hemmer. For lighter fabrics (smaller stitch) it goes left, for bigger (heavier fabrics) it goes right. I keep it in the middle for cottons, to the right for denim.<br />
<br />
<b>Preparing the Hem:</b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiye-1e-SJGQptAwqHl_PoxE2X4SrsSHTGvvbMSs_Unhg9rgzXoKZGmbQpf0H9dsAHIZ8iTf7HV5fauY2HrV98AsfKdx5TfUCVZd8oXuVcrrg-ynCaZi-MnFocOCjP6FL27qbL4JDzq9gNJ/s1600/P6030004.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiye-1e-SJGQptAwqHl_PoxE2X4SrsSHTGvvbMSs_Unhg9rgzXoKZGmbQpf0H9dsAHIZ8iTf7HV5fauY2HrV98AsfKdx5TfUCVZd8oXuVcrrg-ynCaZi-MnFocOCjP6FL27qbL4JDzq9gNJ/s320/P6030004.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Turn Up Top Hem Allowance (apprx 3/8")</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_NCb9tbTH4jezFlmNn2Uodgo1SZWlYEEnkRy445ux6Glj0TAVI4G8E3w1G7aVPk5QIxe1Q7qsqxNy-MD39K0PxsSObZo0hkXWYdmGqhhD2t0Lau0EK-fVfpYbVszNBQe62T0jm0gy7Nb3/s1600/P6030003.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_NCb9tbTH4jezFlmNn2Uodgo1SZWlYEEnkRy445ux6Glj0TAVI4G8E3w1G7aVPk5QIxe1Q7qsqxNy-MD39K0PxsSObZo0hkXWYdmGqhhD2t0Lau0EK-fVfpYbVszNBQe62T0jm0gy7Nb3/s320/P6030003.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fold Again in Place.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
* Turn up the hem to where you want it and press in place. If it is a difficult to handle material, baste in place.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi330ryFqvkSeJAyvd2LYLRRAC_N-T6oisilghN9MQ-onJJ8odIlNLhPZRlZkLM7wZo_Sbnq-wANCGeim40c5oNqCzgTVh_0TbdrRa51zmNv2TDmoguXELhmPGFlJylf263klZQ6lWnEgKV/s1600/P6030001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi330ryFqvkSeJAyvd2LYLRRAC_N-T6oisilghN9MQ-onJJ8odIlNLhPZRlZkLM7wZo_Sbnq-wANCGeim40c5oNqCzgTVh_0TbdrRa51zmNv2TDmoguXELhmPGFlJylf263klZQ6lWnEgKV/s320/P6030001.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Turn to Underside</td></tr>
</tbody></table> *Turn the hem to the underside - wrong side up. There should be a 1/4" extension for sewing on face up.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6wWN1s_-Uy0GM9zUfRhuIUTuLbVBiPC9ktPc4P7bNd9hJob0Hrz7YHJt1TrX8RPRf-X12Ma_I9s1ZKl9FyRGATdR9NZCFiD7yOY-HF9LnCSSPRx1j7g3VirfgxjS894OZBzJEWfALCMXr/s1600/P6030021.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6wWN1s_-Uy0GM9zUfRhuIUTuLbVBiPC9ktPc4P7bNd9hJob0Hrz7YHJt1TrX8RPRf-X12Ma_I9s1ZKl9FyRGATdR9NZCFiD7yOY-HF9LnCSSPRx1j7g3VirfgxjS894OZBzJEWfALCMXr/s320/P6030021.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fabric Placement for Hemming</td></tr>
</tbody></table>* Place the fabric just like this under the blind hemmer. Be sure to pay attention to where the little metal guide thumb is. Your top fold should be next to this.<br />
*Start sewing slowly. You'll notice the line of strait stitching and then the hemmer will jump over. That's why I recommend you take it easy - to keep it lined up. If you are not careful, you'll be doing this....<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYBbbISU3CRCUaEeToihbCbNnYzE0k-F9-u5KlKaRPVHFmW3bDq-pxAvAZ1NvREbpnwueCxfEHm5TBra1DmpjaVqobBl25c_3mfh0g0mnU13FrjLZuIFWkhb7puScnyAnUnwJ9cgjaWVz8/s1600/P6030017.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYBbbISU3CRCUaEeToihbCbNnYzE0k-F9-u5KlKaRPVHFmW3bDq-pxAvAZ1NvREbpnwueCxfEHm5TBra1DmpjaVqobBl25c_3mfh0g0mnU13FrjLZuIFWkhb7puScnyAnUnwJ9cgjaWVz8/s320/P6030017.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bad Blind Hemming</td></tr>
</tbody></table>It is very easy to sew over the fold. <br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUC74UAQI0r0aoVmc3GujcWqLqHc3iF0R8_tmZrYwhmk_maSlSs8vt8lDlgDQTcX5wv1mIwtpjQnnouhZ9rsZgXtstr9FDClXDQYLAs_fZPQxbALKb0l4i22v_8rPzByIzIn3JKnSaz9Tq/s1600/P6030018.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUC74UAQI0r0aoVmc3GujcWqLqHc3iF0R8_tmZrYwhmk_maSlSs8vt8lDlgDQTcX5wv1mIwtpjQnnouhZ9rsZgXtstr9FDClXDQYLAs_fZPQxbALKb0l4i22v_8rPzByIzIn3JKnSaz9Tq/s320/P6030018.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Good Blind Hemming</td></tr>
</tbody></table>It should look like the photo above. Note how close the stitches are to the fold but are not on it.<br />
*Sew entire hem in place.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY0phzdNnsZf8XsvMyOJs3HwkpUFrLZmOZfm2-oYsdZQfJKNL4BGOu_uE_VvnUP94G6uiVjAjkrlGQDiitrwoKfUFphZfnT2M1nWxcU3XcM7rC_S-SF_v0jyuhb3PqvL89rA7LFPS49qmk/s1600/P6030019.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY0phzdNnsZf8XsvMyOJs3HwkpUFrLZmOZfm2-oYsdZQfJKNL4BGOu_uE_VvnUP94G6uiVjAjkrlGQDiitrwoKfUFphZfnT2M1nWxcU3XcM7rC_S-SF_v0jyuhb3PqvL89rA7LFPS49qmk/s320/P6030019.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Opened Hem</td></tr>
</tbody></table> *Open out hem. This is what the hem looks like from the inside of the garment. Note the basting line of stitching and the blind hem line of stitching.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1k5IF0i6KSkmd8ZWFsbg_HRc5j2aKEYOk5gPcMbuUR1oU8v6k3izj5if8BOGnEFA3eZ2VWXZJXY4S_6qVbBknz1N8OIZZQ2qSahA6p35uf7F6R4HE92bV4D-k_ZoWOhp-qWgo1Owwn6q6/s1600/P6030020.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1k5IF0i6KSkmd8ZWFsbg_HRc5j2aKEYOk5gPcMbuUR1oU8v6k3izj5if8BOGnEFA3eZ2VWXZJXY4S_6qVbBknz1N8OIZZQ2qSahA6p35uf7F6R4HE92bV4D-k_ZoWOhp-qWgo1Owwn6q6/s320/P6030020.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finished Hem</td></tr>
</tbody></table>*Turn garment to the right side out and press it smooth.<br />
<br />
<b>Final Opinion:</b><br />
It looks almost invisible, even with problem areas. That part is good , but this can be frustrating to use at first. I put it away several times on different projects in disgust. Possibly there is a learning curve with this attachment. It will be used more now as I have gotten a little more practice. The results are great. This can be a real time saver for projects like full skirted dresses and curtains.<br />
If I had to choose, I'd use a zig zag machine with a built in blind hem for most projects. It is easier to be accurate. There are those times that a small and light machine is what I travel with and most of those times that means an Elna Grasshopper or the Singer 221. Once in a while even a non electric is needed (long story) and so a hand crank 28 comes out with me. That is when I'd use this and so it's worth keeping in a well stocked sewing tool kit.<br />
This do-hickey is recommended.<br />
<span id="goog_1447969867"></span><span id="goog_1447969868"></span>yarndivahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10132680063667909853noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7714166932152347946.post-41563210521212611982011-06-12T14:09:00.000-07:002012-08-08T07:09:03.068-07:00The Greist Decorative Zigzagger<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9qpX4SibAr8OSP9IvObEsycQpW9HyNnvbpj-KUhTbH5CCHBhoFKmGXjCi1Rl6CYkugogUg5HlXfsPc-UIGPhSXFbjPHa9uMxuxC1wzL_hWo8X7BmFdKjtJjExi_IrxfI0kf8saGtYrKTe/s1600/P5270032.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9qpX4SibAr8OSP9IvObEsycQpW9HyNnvbpj-KUhTbH5CCHBhoFKmGXjCi1Rl6CYkugogUg5HlXfsPc-UIGPhSXFbjPHa9uMxuxC1wzL_hWo8X7BmFdKjtJjExi_IrxfI0kf8saGtYrKTe/s320/P5270032.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Greist Zigzagger</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Here I go with yet another zigzagger attachment. This one goes up against my little Chadwicke's that I reviewed earlier. I found this one and thought it deserved a bit of a test as they are fairly common and Greist makes very good accessories for many models of machines. The one drawback to older strait stitch only machines is, well, they are strait stitch only. There are times a zig zag stitch is handy to have such as with edge finishes on exposed inner seams. Because of this I like to have a zig zag attachmentclose at hand even for this limited use. Here's another one I've found. How does it work? Does it work?<br />
<b>Background Information</b><br />
These are made for strait stitch machines, I used a low shank Singer 221 (Featherweight) but this would be good for any low shank strait stitcher. Some examples would be the Singer models 201, 15-91, 27, 28,127, 128, 66 (not the back clampers), Pfaff 131.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiegOcscmQjoB1FtnbfMWL56Pj0YuANsHBpVvD5jEc225C8qLft6pJq9dsBcMigPB9j7oK5hPgFa44S-2kNyZL_ejnaHBCk3z2onFT6EYjH9aGQ27FGeJmpQuNfFedMpMXqc-KYuqv51y19/s1600/P5270035.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiegOcscmQjoB1FtnbfMWL56Pj0YuANsHBpVvD5jEc225C8qLft6pJq9dsBcMigPB9j7oK5hPgFa44S-2kNyZL_ejnaHBCk3z2onFT6EYjH9aGQ27FGeJmpQuNfFedMpMXqc-KYuqv51y19/s320/P5270035.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Greist Zigzagger with Templates</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The Zigzagger comes with a permanent template for making a basic zig zag stitch and has some additional ones for embroidery type designs to add if you want to change the look. There is a thumb screw for hooking it up to your machine. The red colored part is a removable snap to hold the extra templates in place.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNzxV5gzkUlFaMN-r0uPnsGsA6kYaE0Td2Vv4OIYEuWcHo5b1UDbJtq9-NBZ8dhTuDiwGMqrYpBCaW_JcUbi1VcEBTGqQw4RBT8s3W2DeTHy7WElQXD57XWPsbXHfsASngvumYxaT72Z5i/s1600/P5270036.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNzxV5gzkUlFaMN-r0uPnsGsA6kYaE0Td2Vv4OIYEuWcHo5b1UDbJtq9-NBZ8dhTuDiwGMqrYpBCaW_JcUbi1VcEBTGqQw4RBT8s3W2DeTHy7WElQXD57XWPsbXHfsASngvumYxaT72Z5i/s320/P5270036.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Attaching the Zigzagger</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>How to Use:</b> <br />
*Remove presser foot, keep presser bar up.<br />
*Hook the Zig Zagger to the presser bar and at the same time make sure the "arm" hook is on the needle scew. This is just like a buttonholer.<br />
<br />
<b>Note</b>: I was having some trouble with adjustments on this at first, only to find my machine's thread cutter was in the way of the zigzagger's movement. You can simply turn the needle threader to the back by pushing it . <br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRS3hC6MUwqookqSvVOe7kWeTjsiDScysIFPi5xci6Kz5XY7GLQ5UXopQIs5MIwmtwOVqs1dNknwzhwAIly42pNyZoKsn_dOUHSjvKnoK3Nfk02tWQ7pBsMRIMO83TS5PhIk61kA3FoTMY/s1600/P5270038.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRS3hC6MUwqookqSvVOe7kWeTjsiDScysIFPi5xci6Kz5XY7GLQ5UXopQIs5MIwmtwOVqs1dNknwzhwAIly42pNyZoKsn_dOUHSjvKnoK3Nfk02tWQ7pBsMRIMO83TS5PhIk61kA3FoTMY/s320/P5270038.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Adjust Width of Zigzag with This</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
* Adjust the width of the Zig Zag stitch by making loosening the screw then moving the metal bar. The #1 is the most narrow zig zag stitch. Adjustment of the spacing of the zig zag stitch is done by your machine's stitch length lever.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzksKUgZnEurs76FQvgn8OEALtQFubNSCZ0VZDJP9pHiJxRhrS9bFaC7h5o2OAVPqNqyU3Y_as15qlRZ4Vc8R_2mnYBEmkFCMIetSMHwnhhhSbpDWmPOybLqpwkZfe0rOstkQgh4x7oZqs/s1600/P5270039.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzksKUgZnEurs76FQvgn8OEALtQFubNSCZ0VZDJP9pHiJxRhrS9bFaC7h5o2OAVPqNqyU3Y_as15qlRZ4Vc8R_2mnYBEmkFCMIetSMHwnhhhSbpDWmPOybLqpwkZfe0rOstkQgh4x7oZqs/s320/P5270039.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Template Snap</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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If you want to change a template, remove this snap.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4jBTZGk_SJQUwkDhp-C5F4UrUmDQfW87UFPtAVbXer7CgmL9yyyKGhn0-luoo446EVrvu3u7TfYbnIgmSzJaKc3yp8e_O7eEu9iYEm5I6Jh1Jo9Bz-ZFY0XNsIsDUm7dWs6C94GOj1wT2/s1600/P5270041.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4jBTZGk_SJQUwkDhp-C5F4UrUmDQfW87UFPtAVbXer7CgmL9yyyKGhn0-luoo446EVrvu3u7TfYbnIgmSzJaKc3yp8e_O7eEu9iYEm5I6Jh1Jo9Bz-ZFY0XNsIsDUm7dWs6C94GOj1wT2/s320/P5270041.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It comes off just like this....</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_J_cfG_fsRopDoHvGtqhtSJplrslNnS0rwL16QHh_rF2wEcP_H0V9VCj3YupN0e1g9Qe-bwM0LxgJjK8xv4M-jvQBcbMAMwWigFTf-1ZcAe-JSQKpqmGtEkWscjU__pTfbJmpfnUrBC8i/s1600/P5270042.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_J_cfG_fsRopDoHvGtqhtSJplrslNnS0rwL16QHh_rF2wEcP_H0V9VCj3YupN0e1g9Qe-bwM0LxgJjK8xv4M-jvQBcbMAMwWigFTf-1ZcAe-JSQKpqmGtEkWscjU__pTfbJmpfnUrBC8i/s320/P5270042.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Adding the little template.</td></tr>
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Changing the template is easy, I do it right on the machine. The snap is just like a clothing snap, works great for this. The template goes on right over the permanent one.<br />
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*When ready, lower presser bar and start slowly with stitches. That's all! It moves all over, don't worry.<br />
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Here is what the zig zag looks like on fabric:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbtSEXXFLLn-uyML99gyQjDUtKARQpI-H_Mvmfva9Y8vHlEssoc7wano2N86VgaznAqznlPCjW_lTSuJZTcQRqNiBFHopAdAPTilwnyhmuMvA40kTdmVpaZDkV8ZG99pZ6rOYRnMtAioPi/s1600/P5300014.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbtSEXXFLLn-uyML99gyQjDUtKARQpI-H_Mvmfva9Y8vHlEssoc7wano2N86VgaznAqznlPCjW_lTSuJZTcQRqNiBFHopAdAPTilwnyhmuMvA40kTdmVpaZDkV8ZG99pZ6rOYRnMtAioPi/s320/P5300014.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Zigzagger Samples</td></tr>
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Does it work? Yes, but the quality is not that great with the simple zig zag but it is OK. The patterned decorative stitches are better. I find it difficult to get a significant change in the width of the stitch in the simple zigzag setting. Strangely, I have the same problem with my other one, the Chadwicks Zizagger. The extra templates make some good stitches like the ones shown above. They might be handy if using knits or you want to hem with a simple blind stitch. Because it can do both, it might be a nice addition to a traveling sewing tool kit.<br />
As a final note, I suggest making up a sample with the number of the template written in ink for each setting. They all look alike and this will save you a lot of testing later. Do the same for the zig zag and it's settings. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXDx1TU4Jm9yFv7PZUa_nl3_sKjzKf1Vx3e_HWN5Tr7d_mLpb9MpGIpOFmy3Mk4F2VMzW0ho_xYEZjWVgTbsZpqNF3gq3Evy-6v-9F2L5VFhinTfVYSU74G4EDNkfWQ-u0dz6AFUkmB5hi/s1600/P6030001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXDx1TU4Jm9yFv7PZUa_nl3_sKjzKf1Vx3e_HWN5Tr7d_mLpb9MpGIpOFmy3Mk4F2VMzW0ho_xYEZjWVgTbsZpqNF3gq3Evy-6v-9F2L5VFhinTfVYSU74G4EDNkfWQ-u0dz6AFUkmB5hi/s320/P6030001.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>yarndivahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10132680063667909853noreply@blogger.com20tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7714166932152347946.post-72918146822838494192011-05-06T18:06:00.000-07:002011-05-07T12:31:59.829-07:00Still Popular After All These Years, the Singer 221 Featherwieght.<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTLhicIcd-Gg0livlzPEn5AV2qMnILuJllcajaqnmS7-K6egfffCnNO6r1MqyiLDkjtOYXKIZCOg5w7QqJjL1VP0hvGLTNKbtF-ECLoFXHeyybiYXHPVG5WX1uBU3V8bBVF4HehQW2nR00/s1600/P4130014.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTLhicIcd-Gg0livlzPEn5AV2qMnILuJllcajaqnmS7-K6egfffCnNO6r1MqyiLDkjtOYXKIZCOg5w7QqJjL1VP0hvGLTNKbtF-ECLoFXHeyybiYXHPVG5WX1uBU3V8bBVF4HehQW2nR00/s320/P4130014.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Singer 221 1946</td></tr>
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The Singer 221 "Featherweight" is easily the most popular vintage sewing machine, by far. It has numerous fan clubs, collector websites and dealers of reproduction parts made just for it. Of course with this popularity comes a higher value. Because of this, I have not had the chance to own one...until now. I also found all the adoration a bit annoying. Hey, there are lots of old machines needing love out there. Why not just use one of those? It is for sure an amazing gift and so now begins the exploration of this sewing machine. What is the fuss about anyway? Huge fuss. Fanatical fans. <br />
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There is no denying the most obvious thing about this machine: it is small. It is like a toy, but for real. Teeny yet just big enough to get the job done. It is light, I could carry it in one hand. The total weight is around 11 pounds and with a case is just under 20. My other machines vary in weight but most are around 40 pounds plus case. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>That brings me to the other thing about this machine: the case. It is a very practical and clever design. This is one sewing machine and case truly made to be portable. It fits perfectly with room for foot control, accessories with space for things like scissors, thread and so forth. There is even a place for an oil can. This photo shows the machine with the top open revealing the gears inside. It pivots back into place.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhKAFesTve2R-NeNPow3aGLN9O1lpkC5jVOPedHtxcN-rgQIgyIKje87mcs9pxFVNg0p8YAYQr0mHx4pUsv1AstSnrc4AKkiY-Hoj71lQwklD6ym098uplefM3_cISlhQjQAi5SYNlgzjZ/s1600/P4130022.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhKAFesTve2R-NeNPow3aGLN9O1lpkC5jVOPedHtxcN-rgQIgyIKje87mcs9pxFVNg0p8YAYQr0mHx4pUsv1AstSnrc4AKkiY-Hoj71lQwklD6ym098uplefM3_cISlhQjQAi5SYNlgzjZ/s320/P4130022.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
How does it sew? I am pretty impressed with this as well. It is very small and so I expected it to be less than powerful. It is less than the "heavyweights" such as Singer 201 or 15-91 of the same era yet does quite well. It performed well on various types of fabrics as well as long as the right needle and thread combination are used. It had trouble with denim but got through the job with some help of turning the hand wheel. The only drawback is that it is small and so fitting big items inside the harp area of the machine was tricky. I guess that is why the Singer 222 free arm model was made. <br />
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The 221 takes low shank attachments and so wow, lots to play with in this area. A hundred years of attachments go with it from the modern clear plastic 1/4" foot to the 1889 ruffler work on it. Entire websites cater to the topic of Featherweight accessories. Zigzaggers, sock darners, penguin walking feet, even fabric covers made just for them. Fun fun fun.<br />
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This little machine is so easy to take on the road, I have done it already. I hear many people got this model just to take to classes and I see why. This photo was taken inside a theater. To get to this dressing room it is through a parking lot, up stairs, through a maze of set obstacles and though two sets of heavy doors. With "Tiny" it was no problem. Saved me tons of time by fixing any alterations right then and there. Just when I thought this 221 was to be a special toy, it turned out to be as practical as any other.<br />
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I have earned my pin.yarndivahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10132680063667909853noreply@blogger.com5