Make a Simple Patch

Fix Those Well Worn Jeans.

There are a lot of ways to fix clothing and even what I am showing here has many variations. I get asked many times how to patch clothing so I am writing this one down as it is also how other things are patched such as jeans knees and jacket elbows. This particular repair is really common and not hard to do so a perfect first sewing machine repair.

Choose your method.

There are two major ways to fix this type of tear. One is darning and the other is patch.

1. Darning: Repair through thread alone. Zig zag or back and forth stitching over the tear. This type good for smaller holes. Can be done discreetly. Not good for large holes or areas of lots of stress like knees.

2. Patching: Covering the area of damage with other fabric. It has the benefit of being strong for places with stress. It can be tricky to do and is visible.

There are variations to these, like what I can an underside patch, but that is for another time. For simplicity those topics are left out but remember there is a whole world of creativity here!

Choose Your Materials for the Fix.

For machine darning use a matching  thread for a less visible mend. Use a a completely different one for a highly visible repair. For my example, it is a close match. 

For patching, choose a fabric for patching that is of similar weight to your garment for good wear. Especially important with knit fabric. In the example shown here, the fabric being repaired is jeans denim so a heavy cotton was chosen. It is not the same color but is the same weight. If you go too light with fabric, the patch itself will not survive much wear and tear from use. 

Keep in mind if a repair was needed, the area is likely to see some rough use. Make your repair just as strong. 

Prep Work Being Done

Prepare Your Work.

It can be scary but you will nearly always have to do some deconstruction to do a good repair. Here I am removing the pockets a bit to access the area below so it can be given new fabric. 

Some general rules from Anne's lesson learning from many mistakes over the years:

1. Give yourself enough room to work. 

2. (a caveat to #1) Don't do too much. When in doubt Don't.

3. Take time and go slow. Making more damage when taking apart is easy to do. Use a sharp seam      ripper or X-Acto knife.

4. If the garment is complex take a photo or two of the work before it all comes apart.

5. Remember to use the right weight needle for the fabric you are working with.

6. Remember "Do no harm" in repairs as well as medicine. If your repair idea damages forever the      garment then don't do it. Repair it another way.

Fixing the Levis.

Get ready:

Get some heavy cotton.

Get some thread in colors you need.

Get a size 110 Needle.

Lift the corners of the pockets using a seam ripper. Go down past the hole about 1". This is easily sewn back together.

We have two holes to fix. One if large and the other small. To fix, I will do one machine darn and one patch. That means we need 3 patches. Two will be placed on the inside of both pockets and the outside of one. Patching the inside makes a strong and comfortable repair. It provides a stable foundation to do machine darning on the small hole. It can be omitted but that is another subject all together.

1. Make 2 inside patches to match holes. The need to be slightly larger than the holes.
2. Make one outside patch. The shape is determined by how you want it to look. I made it bigger so as to go to the top seam. Choose the look you want and then make the patch that shape. Trace with chalk and cut to form.  plus 1/2" for large patches or 1/4" on small patches all around to turn under.

2. Finish the edges. Zig zag or serge is best. Less but also OK is pinking or single row of stitching. 

Three patches needed- Two for inside and one for outside.

Sew Patches to Inside.

Line up patch and pin.

Make sure bobbin thread matches the fabric. 

Setting the location. Make sure to cover the entire hole.

 This is the view from the outside when sewn down.

Outside view.

Patching the Outside.

This patch was made so as to go to the top seam. 

If possible, use an iron to press seam allowance under. Usually the amount is about 1/4 or 1/2". Not needed but sure makes a neat edge. That is what is happening here.

Pressing under a 1/4" seam allowance.

Stitch in place.

Stitched need to be small enough to be strong but not to small as to pucker up. For heavy fabrics like this I use a #3. Stitches are made very close to the edge but not on it.

Stitch again inside for added stability. 1/4" is good generally on a small patch like this. 

For large patches it is good to stitch the center area as well to keep it all in place. Some decorative flair is good here. 

The fun part, stitching it down.

Machine Darn.

Machine stitching the hole closed is done by simply moving the presser foot back and forth over the holeThat can be done different ways depending on the machine. My favorite is using a 3 step zig zag built in stitch. My machine here is great with heavy weight denim but has no built in stitches nor even reverse direction. To achieve the back and forth I lift the presser foot slightly to pull it back. 

Most machines you can just go forward and reverse closely together or use a close zig zag stitch.

Machine Darning with Ol'Willcox and Gibbs

The stitching can be seem better form the inside, as shown here.

Inside view.

Finish It Up.

Sew up those pockets. A nice touch is to use matching jeans topstitch thread for the last part. Not difficult to find and useful for projects like these. It is heavier than everyday thread. Normally I use it for top thread only and match use normal weight in the bobbin. Bobbin tension needs to be adjusted if heavy thread is used.

, 

Done!

Retro Fit Pocket

If your dress or top does not have a pocket, you can often add one yourself. This is how I add a pocket to an already constructed garment into a side seam.  It looks long and complex but it is not really.  I made one pocket here but you can do two, of course. With vintage garments I try to alter them as little as possible and so one is usually my choice. 

You will need a little sewing experience, a few pins, some marking chalk or marker and some fabric to make the pocket from. 

To choose fabric, it is best to match weight and then color. Use an exact matching fabric or one lighter in weight. You can cut your fabric off grain if you need to. The amount is basically slightly bigger than your hand times two. Don't try to make it too small.

Pre wash fabric to avoid shrinking afterwards!

Make Your Pocket Template

You can take a pocket from a commerical pattern to do this or you cna make your own. To do this yourself, just trace your own hand for size.  If you make one from paper, you can bet it will get used again and again.

Set two layers of fabric out, as shown and do some drawing. Open your fingers slightly and then trace about 1-2" all around as of you were setting your hand inside the pocket. The strait edge is at the wrist. You want to be adding some room for a seam allowance and ease.

Make your pocket shape.

Getting Ready 

Cutting and Finishing the Pocket Bag

Finish edges

Cut out your pocket bag pieces. The edges for the pocket bags need to be finished by either serging, pinked or zig zag stitching on your machine. Don't sew them together yet. 

Choosing a Spot For Your Pocket

Note: Where to put the pocket takes a little planning. Often garments do not have pockets because of fit. There is usually not room for one in the usual location. Because of this it may be good to move it slightly lower on the garment. Not always the case, but a test may be needed to see where. I place a pin in the spot most comfortable and also where a pocket can fit in a loose area.   

The pin is going to be in the spot where your wrist goes. It is the center opening of the pocket.

Choose a comfortable spot for your pocket

 Opening the Seam.

Open the seam with a seam ripper for the length of your cut pocket peices plus 2" on either end.  With  this dress the seams were pinked only but if yours are served or finished in another way it will have to be undone so a little more work. That also means the seams need to be zig zagged finished again before the pocket is sewn to keep everything neat.  I suggest opening seam then zig zag the two separate seam allowances at this point so as not to forget.

Start at the side seam across from the pin mark.

Marking the Stitching Lines  

The lines for stitching is easiest to mark now, either by chalk or with pins. I do a little of both. 

1. Add a pin in the wrist location, usually 3 inches below the top as in this example. Of course there is a place for design creaitivty here. I have made them longer to set into a seam. 

2. Mark the strait edge at 1" below the top. 

3. Mark another at 3" from the bottom. This gives enough depth so as not to have htings fall out of your pocket but also room enough for your hand to go in and out.

Marking the sides.

Stitching the Pocket

Line it all up.

Now is time to do some sewing! Place and match up the strait edge right sides together.  Sew in a 3/8 inch seam. This is for a normal 5/8" seam allowance of the original garment. If it is different than sew this seam slightly less. This will set the pocket inside the seam.

Stitch at 3/8" or a measurement less than your seam allowance.

Press the Seam Allowance

To make sure the fabric is sewn correctly, this step is important. Press the pocket out.

Iron seam allowances out.

Sew the Two Seams and Pocket Together

Line up the pockets and seams being sure everything is matched up perfectly. Pin at the top of the pocket, at the 1" mark and a few on the bag pieces. Pin at the 3" mark and base of pocket. These are all areas that need to stay in place as you work.

Line it all up evenly, especially top and bottom for a nice smooth fisnished pocket.

Sewing it All Together

1. Stitch from the start of the opended seam down to the 1" mark. 

2. Turn around, stitch to 1/2" below the top of the pocket (seam allowance amount). 

3. Turn sideways and go around pocket all the way to the dress seam again and in 5/8".

Note: You want to be sewing on the inside of the original sewing line, where the pocket went onto the dress. It can be seen and felt under the layers.

4. Turn work and go up to the 3" mark. 

5. Turn back again and go down, and keep going along previous line and then onto the dress seam until the end.

Sewing down to 1" mark and turning back. The pin is marking the spot to stop and return.

Finished Pocket

Turn Out and Press

The pocket should be just inside the seam line.

Just for those who were wondering what the whole dress looks like that got the new pocket, here it is.   Vintage Made in Hawaii by Holo Holo. 

1970's Vintage Hawaiian