The Singer Blind Stitch Attachment

This little thing has been an attachment I have avoided using for a long time.  It came in a case with a sewing machine so it was a stow away.  I'll be honest,  I simply do not like to hem at all...anything.  Being a "petite", hemming has been the bane of my fashion existence.  Nearly every garment I have bought or made needs a hem adjustment.  Ugh.  Anyhoo........maybe this can make it easier?  I'll discuss that and how to use it here.

Background Information:
This is a low shank attachment.  I am showing this on a Singer 221 (Featherweight).  It should work the same on any strait stitch low shank such as the Singer 201, 15-91, 27,28, 127, 128 or 66 (except the back clampers). 

You will find it easier to use if you have a manual.  You can find one here:
Singer Blind Stitch Attachment Manual

Attaching the Blind Hemmer

 *raise the presser bar.  Attach the blind hemmer by setting it on the presser bar at the same time hooking the fork through the needle clamp.  Screw in place.

Helpful Hint:
It is a very good idea to test this out before you sew on your garment.  There may be an adjustment needed to the width of the "bite" of the stitch.  That is made by moving the black metal part on the top of the presser foot of the hemmer.  For lighter fabrics (smaller stitch) it goes left, for bigger (heavier fabrics) it goes right.  I keep it in the middle for cottons, to the right for denim.

Preparing the Hem:

Turn Up Top Hem Allowance (apprx 3/8")

Fold Again in Place.

* Turn up the hem to where you want it and press in place.  If it is a difficult to handle material, baste in place.

Turn to Underside

 *Turn the hem to the underside - wrong side up.  There should be a 1/4" extension for sewing on face up.

Fabric Placement for Hemming

* Place the fabric just like this under the blind hemmer.  Be sure to pay attention to where the little metal guide thumb is.  Your top fold should be next to this.
*Start sewing slowly.  You'll notice the line of strait stitching and then the hemmer will jump over.  That's why I recommend you take it easy - to keep it lined up.  If you are not careful, you'll be doing this....

Bad Blind Hemming

It is very easy to sew over the fold. 

Good Blind Hemming

It should look like the photo above.  Note how close the stitches are to the fold but are not on it.
*Sew entire hem in place.

Opened Hem

 *Open out hem.  This is what the hem looks like from the inside of the garment.  Note the basting line of stitching and the blind hem line of stitching.

Finished Hem

*Turn garment to the right side out and press it smooth.

Final Opinion:
It looks almost invisible, even with problem areas.   That part is good , but this can be frustrating to use at first.  I put it away several times on different projects in disgust.  Possibly there is a learning curve with this attachment.  It will be used more now as I have gotten a little more practice.  The results are great.  This can be a real time saver for projects like full skirted dresses and curtains.
If I had to choose, I'd use a zig zag machine with a built in blind hem for most projects.  It is easier to be accurate.   There are those times that a small and light machine is what I travel with and most of those times that means an Elna Grasshopper or the Singer 221.  Once in a while even a non electric is needed (long story) and so a hand crank 28 comes out with me.   That is when I'd use this and so it's worth keeping in a well stocked sewing tool kit.
This do-hickey is recommended.