Retro Fit Pocket

If your dress or top does not have a pocket, you can often add one yourself. This is how I add a pocket to an already constructed garment into a side seam. It looks long and complex but it is not really. I made one pocket here but you can do two, of course. With vintage garments I try to alter them as little as possible and so one is usually my choice.

You will need a little sewing experience, a few pins, some marking chalk or marker and some fabric to make the pocket from.

To choose fabric, it is best to match weight and then color. Use an exact matching fabric or one lighter in weight. You can cut your fabric off grain if you need to. The amount is basically slightly bigger than your hand times two. Don't try to make it too small.

Pre wash fabric to avoid shrinking afterwards!

Make Your Pocket Template

You can take a pocket from a commerical pattern to do this or you cna make your own. To do this yourself, just trace your own hand for size. If you make one from paper, you can bet it will get used again and again.

Set two layers of fabric out, as shown and do some drawing. Open your fingers slightly and then trace about 1-2" all around as of you were setting your hand inside the pocket. The strait edge is at the wrist. You want to be adding some room for a seam allowance and ease.

Make your pocket shape.

Getting Ready

Cutting and Finishing the Pocket Bag

Finish edges

Cut out your pocket bag pieces. The edges for the pocket bags need to be finished by either serging, pinked or zig zag stitching on your machine. Don't sew them together yet.

Choosing a Spot For Your Pocket

Note: Where to put the pocket takes a little planning. Often garments do not have pockets because of fit. There is usually not room for one in the usual location. Because of this it may be good to move it slightly lower on the garment. Not always the case, but a test may be needed to see where. I place a pin in the spot most comfortable and also where a pocket can fit in a loose area.

The pin is going to be in the spot where your wrist goes. It is the center opening of the pocket.

Choose a comfortable spot for your pocket

Opening the Seam.

Open the seam with a seam ripper for the length of your cut pocket peices plus 2" on either end. With this dress the seams were pinked only but if yours are served or finished in another way it will have to be undone so a little more work. That also means the seams need to be zig zagged finished again before the pocket is sewn to keep everything neat. I suggest opening seam then zig zag the two separate seam allowances at this point so as not to forget.

Start at the side seam across from the pin mark.

Marking the Stitching Lines

The lines for stitching is easiest to mark now, either by chalk or with pins. I do a little of both.

1. Add a pin in the wrist location, usually 3 inches below the top as in this example. Of course there is a place for design creaitivty here. I have made them longer to set into a seam.

2. Mark the strait edge at 1" below the top.

3. Mark another at 3" from the bottom. This gives enough depth so as not to have htings fall out of your pocket but also room enough for your hand to go in and out.

Marking the sides.

Stitching the Pocket

Line it all up.

Now is time to do some sewing! Place and match up the strait edge right sides together. Sew in a 3/8 inch seam. This is for a normal 5/8" seam allowance of the original garment. If it is different than sew this seam slightly less. This will set the pocket inside the seam.

Stitch at 3/8" or a measurement less than your seam allowance.

Press the Seam Allowance

To make sure the fabric is sewn correctly, this step is important. Press the pocket out.

Iron seam allowances out.

Sew the Two Seams and Pocket Together

Line up the pockets and seams being sure everything is matched up perfectly. Pin at the top of the pocket, at the 1" mark and a few on the bag pieces. Pin at the 3" mark and base of pocket. These are all areas that need to stay in place as you work.

Line it all up evenly, especially top and bottom for a nice smooth fisnished pocket.

Sewing it All Together

1. Stitch from the start of the opended seam down to the 1" mark.

2. Turn around, stitch to 1/2" below the top of the pocket (seam allowance amount).

3. Turn sideways and go around pocket all the way to the dress seam again and in 5/8".

Note: You want to be sewing on the inside of the original sewing line, where the pocket went onto the dress. It can be seen and felt under the layers.

4. Turn work and go up to the 3" mark.

5. Turn back again and go down, and keep going along previous line and then onto the dress seam until the end.