The Singer 12 "New Family"

Singer 12 "New Family" Handcrank 1884

A new member of the sewing machine family came to live with us recently.  It is one I have long been interested in, the Singer 12.  It is also called "the New Family" machine.  This particular one was made in 1884.  So tiny, so beautiful despite the condition.  This was a sad case.  Here is what it was like when I got it.

 

Rusted and frozen.

The machine was very well used and then left where water got to it from what I can tell.  The rust was and is quite bad.  Because of that, the machine has large areas where the paint is gone and some parts that are irreparably damaged.  The good news is that it's complete.  It even has it's bobbin.  Singer 12's are not super rare but still not common enough for parts to be easy to find.  That means I will have to make due with what is here.  Thank goodness for Evaporust.  It has cleaned up many small parts already.  
The slide plates are in poor shape with one not removable.  I was able to get one free so as to be able to get the bobbin and shuttle in order. The shuttle moves side to side!

Horizontal orientation for the shuttle.

 This is one area that is quite different than any other Singer I have - the bobbin tension is set by weaving the thread though little holes in the shuttle.  It's a bit complicated and I am still figuring it all out.

Bobbin and Shuttle.  Note the holes and spring in the shuttle.

People who like these old machines will eventually come across this issue at one time or another.  Old iron is heavy and fragile.  That's a terrible combination.  This Singer 12 had a broken piece that made it unstable.  I resorted to this method, and it worked perfectly.  It was glued with JB Weld. 

Repaired with JB Weld

I found a Singer 12 needle set and new rubber winder tire.  If you find you need one, the rubber tire for the winder is the same size as the ones for the Singer 29-4.  That is a fairly easy to find part.  I am still searching for a good source for needles but Ebay does have them.

Cleaning was slow and there was a lot of debris inside.  Dirty!  For this process I used Gojo non-pumice and cotton balls.  Later I used sewing machine oil.

After some cleaning.

The Singer 12 has a system for setting in the needle that can be a problem.  You must set the needle by sight, not by setting it in a slot.  It is not too hard, just takes some attention.  The needles go in with the groove and eye facing you.  Here is a photo of the placement.

Needle placement.  Note the tiny part at the top of the clamp.

Now to the sewing. Would this even work?  It was not looking good.  It took a while to get it right as this machine is so different that the model 27.   Even putting it together after cleaning was a little tense.  Thankfully I did take photos of where everything was before I removed the parts so as to put it back correctly.  So many issues!  

The tension discs are not in good shape from rust and also a problem with the thread take up or check spring caused all the mess.  What about the crazy shuttle thread winding?  Add to it the needle placement adjustments through trial and error.  Eventually I did get it to make a decent stitch.

There will be more work to come.  There is hope.  This little machine deserves to be useful again and I'll see to it that it is.

Using A Handcrank Sewing Machine

Singer 66 Handcrank

One of my favorite sewing machines is also an unusual one.  It is operated by turning a handle.  They were many made by manufacturers in many countries with a lot of variety.  The hand crank sewing machine was more popular in Europe but there were many in North America and the world as well.  Many can still be found today.  My particular model is a Singer 66 from 1909 and decorated with a lotus floral pattern, part of a very popular Egyptian art style of that time.  I take this one out from time to time to use and to demonstrate how sewing machines work in slow motion.  It is not just show, however, and I'd like to point out that this type of machine can do more.

I feel that hand crank sewing machines do two things exceptionally well: Purse making and doll clothes making.  It's all about control.  The handcrank sewing machine is best when you need close control of stitching for best results.  This is handy when closing the edges of purses around handles.  The large harp area of the Singer 66 also helps.  The photo above shows rick rack that was inserted quite easily.

Projects that require precision, such as doll clothes shown here, are perfect for the handcrank sewing machine.  The small size of doll clothes make them a bit finicky but a great way to learn to sew.  This is especially true when combined with the slow speed of this machine.   So many great seamstresses started this way, as the clothes are made much like the real thing.  You can see that here, with the bodice of a Barbie dress. 

Barbie dress bodice with turn under facings and darts.

Beginning a seam

What's Different?
 There are some things about using a hancrank that take some getting used to.  One of those things is that the beginning a seam, for me, is handled differently.  Because you have one hand to control fabric and there is no reverse motion your normal routine will change slightly with a handcrank.  Keeping the thread from tangling at the beginning is one problem.  I prevent this by holding the thread with my index finger,  I also pin up close at first then remove it after a few stitches.  To keep the first stitches from unraveling, lock the stitch it is done by re-stitching the first two stitches  This is just what is done with treadle machines or those with no reverse.  To re-stitch, I simply give the fabric a slight tug while beginning the seam so the first stitches get stitched over. 

As an aside, I use this little tool a lot: the Clover Mini iron.  It can be used right next to the machine.

Connecting the bodice to skirt.  Just like a real dress.

All done!

How does it work?
One question I hear often is how can I turn the handle and sew at the same time?  It does take some practice but can be done with great success.  Turn the handle but don't look at it.  Keep your eye on the presser foot.    Keep your other hand on the fabric.  An advantage to this process is you can really look at what you are doing and slow or pick up speed accordingly automatically.  That is not as easy with electrics or treadles.

Feeding fabric through strait is the goal.  The machine should pull it fairly evenly.  If does not, the main issue is usually the tension with mine.  If your machine thread tension too tight, it will want to distort and pull the fabric off center.  With correct tension, proper needle, and slow speed you can lightly guide fabric right on through.   Presser foot pressure is also sometimes a problem.  Check to make sure you do not have it too tight.  This is adjusted by a top screw above the faceplate.  If you are not sure about this subject, check your manual.  It's good to know how it all works. 

If you have not seen a handcrank sewing machine in action, here's a quick view.

Can I Make My Own Handcrank?
Sometimes older machines are converted to hand crank.  There are inexpensive  modern kits to do this.  The machine needs to have a place to mount the handle.  Good candidates are the Singer 27, 28, 127, 128, 66,  99 and the Singer Spartan.   I have heard good things about the Necchi BU machines as well.  There are many reasons for wanting to convert.  I have done it for a Singer 128 that was in a broken treadle cabinet.  Finding another 3/4 sized cabinet for that model would have been tough due to rarity.  Not all machines can be changed but some can.

All in all, these are a great addition to anyone's home.  They are portable, beautiful, can be used by children and most important...they take up little space!