Colorful Quilt

I was asked to maybe write something about a project I've made with these old machines.  Because I normally make things for other people, and are garments, I enjoy doing something completely different for my free time.  Quilting is a new found joy.  Why I resisted for so long, I know not.  This time I tried a project that had more than squares.  I bought a jelly roll of fabric, added some of my own and made borders.  The pattern was only for the inside and is called a "braid".  The rest I made to fit the bed and batting size.

It started this way.  Cut  and then sewn together in this manner. 

 There was a lot of experimenting on how to sew them together with no trimming but alas, it was better this way after all.  The next part was to add the borders, more fabric and then to quilt the whole thing.  I am not one who enjoys free motion quilting so I yet again did strait rows.  Free motion is for next time.

The Viking 2000 (early 60's), Eldredge Rotary (1930's) and the Singer 27 (1889) did all the piece work and the Pfaff 131 (1950) did quilting.   It seems every machine has it's specialty so it's rare I do anything on only one machine.  I am guessing it's not just me who does this.

I am very inspired by the many quilters I met through the internet.  How do they do it?  I am still trying to figure out some things.  One of them is how do you match patterned fabric?  I just gave up and let myself relax about the non-matchy thing.  This particular one may be a little extreme - and my husband was very leery of it (as usual) but in the end it sort of works.  I guess that is the lesson the wise ones know. 

Making Button Holes with the Bernina 730

This is a very specific post, but I hope is helpful to those who own a Bernina 730 Record.  It's not the new Bernina730E but still has it's charms.  This 1969 avocado darling was top of the line in her day and still is tops in my sewing room.  It is my best all around sewing machine.  It has sewn for miles and years with no repairs at all.  It produces stitches of the best quality.  That said, it does have a weird semi automatic buttonhole set up.  If you find yourself confused, you are not alone.  Here is a step by step tutorial:

*Before you begin, get your manual out.  I still refer to it, after 25 years.
*Check to see if the buttonhole lever is movable.  It is very common for this lever to be frozen in place.  If so, try Tri-flow and a blow drier to loosen it. Below is a photo of the lever in the correct position for buttonholes.  You should be able to pull down to engage it.

*Prepare the bobbin by threading through the "finger".  This gives a little more tension to give a good stitch.  *Attach the buttonhole foot, as in this picture.

Threaded Bobbin and buttonhole foot

Making the Buttonholes
 
1.  Set the knobs on the machine as shown the manual.   Side lever up, stitch length to the top.

2.  Set zig zag by moving the lever to the right until it hits the stop gently.  That moves the zig zag gears into alignment.  Move the needle position lever to match up white lines on zig zag control.  It's a bit off here, but until I have another photo this gives an idea.  Thanks to a reader for helping.

Move to the right, these are the correct zig zag settings it should have set for you.

3.  Buttonholes start by going away from you.   Make sure your needle is in the center.  If you need ot , turn hand wheel to get it in place (it usually already is).

Begin making your buttonhole starting at your marker to your other mark.  I use pins but remove them when the presser foot is in the right position.

First side, backwards.

4.  With needle up, push lever to the left stop.  This makes the bar tack.  Hold fabric tightly for this.

Left stop position

 5.  Needle up,  move lever to the right stop.  This will start it forwards.   Below is the right stop position.

Right side stop position

Note:  it is very tempting to pull or move the fabric.  My best advice is to resist - it does better when you just let it go no matter how scary that is!
6.  With needle up, push lever to the left stop.  Make another bar tack, hold fabric tightly.

7.  To secure the tack:  Move the lever over the right stop - way over -  past the screw.  It should look like this:

It will stay in place, locking the zig zag and going up the side slightly in tiny stitches.

This all sounds terribly complicated but after a few times it should take only a few minutes.  Basically, here is the procedure in shorthand:
Always have needle up to move lever, hold fabric on tacks.
Stitch back
Left stop
Right stop
Left stop
Far right stop, 3 stitches.


The drawback to this system is that, as like with all manual buttonholes, you have to measure each one perfectly.  Another is that you can't do a second pass.   
They turn out OK but if you spend a little more time the corded ones are the best.  The Bernina buttonhole foot has a hook at the end to allow for string to go under the foot and under the stitches for a raised effect.  I use this when using heavier fabrics mostly.

On a related topic, the Singer Buttonholer cannot be used on the Bernina 730.  Finally got around to trying it out and alas, it was not very good.  It did fit the Buttonholer's cloth plate, and with an low shank adapter fit the needle clamp.  The machine's extension bed was in place for support.  The problem is the bar that holds the Bernina presser feet secure is not positioned well for the buttonholer to fit under it.  I did get a buttonhole made, but it came loose a few times causing the adapter to fall away.

Very close, but it was enough to break my needle and come apart  a few times.  If there was a buttonholer with a lower profile then it would work fine.  Mystery solved.

Green Machine, the Elna Supermatic

The Elna Supermatic's design is one of those you love or hate.  It has a very confident look about it, for sure.  That color, that greeeeeeeen!  Myself, I love it.  It has very sleek modern styling, especially considering the year it was introduced: 1952.  Later years had slightly different colors, so if this is too much, consider the other which was light green   Later models were beige and not so flashy.

The Supermatic was the next sewing machine made by Tavaro of Switzerland.  The first being the Number 1, of the The Grasshopper.  It has all of the feature of that little one, notably the free arm, and more.  From what I can tell, this model introduced the cam to the home sewing machine market.  They were called "discs" and fit onto the Elnagraph inside the sewing machine itself.  That was how designs were made.  It can do many stitches this way, but what I use most are the stretch and zig zag.  Because it can use those discs, it's hard to imagine this machine being as old as it is.  The advertisements do place it in time, though.

This was a time for buying a sewing machine, no doubt. Lot s of advertisements to introduce Americans to this Swiss company.  The competition must have been fierce.  In my house alone I have several sewing machines made at this time.  So many new families just starting out after the WWII.  The pressure for innovation made for some great results, the Elna Supermatic was a good example of this.

Technical details

*Low shank.  That means it will take all those fun things like 1/4" foot and walking foot.
*Uses 15x1 Needles
*Uses "Elna" bobbins, available at fabric stores.
* Works best when oiled properly.  Will be noisy of you don't.
*The Supermatic comes with a knee control.
 I do not like those, but it does save floor space.  Many people love the knee control, however.  As far as I know, it was not offered with a foot control. Not a big deal.

Bobbin is inserted behind the presser foot.

 The only part that was a bit of a mystery to me when I first brought it home was this: How do the discs work?  Do you need them to do zig zag?  There were no discs with my machine when I got it so this was not a problem but lo and behold I found a whole box of them later.  They are a mix, some from a later Elna and some from a Supermatic. To answer the main question in my mind back then: Yes, you do need a disc for zig zag.

Single and Double Discs.  Lots of them.

That brings me to a similar topic.  You can use presser feet from later Elnas and Cams as well.  They do fit and work fine.

How to use the Discs
I write this as it did cause me some trouble at first.  Maybe this will help someone. 
Set the stitch length and width to "0".  The manual says to do this, and that is to make room to set the disc in correctly.  I can't tell you how many tries I made before actually breaking down and reading that very thing, and then it worked perfectly (sigh).

Set to "0"

Unscrew the plastic/ bakelite nut on the shaft or Elnagraph.

This knob is removable.

Place the new disc onto the shaft, matching up the little pin on the vase to your disc's hole.  It will snap into place.  Replace the bakelite nut, it must be on tightly.

What the stitches look like

Now you can sew as normal.  Like any cam, it takes a little experimentation as to how long a stitch or width you like.  Here is an example.

To remove, bring it back to "0" on both settings. Unscrew the nut and remove the discs.  I use a screwdriver head very gently as my machine does not have it's disc lifter accessory.  You will need something to help.  When it is loose, I use my hands to get it out.

Be very careful, set to "0" again and lift.

Done!

The Case

The case is so cool, I have to show it.  It is almost as heavy as the machine is, and become a table by folding it origami style.

Sturdy table from the case.

Very nice travel case.

 Problem

The Supermatic has a pretty good reputation but also a flaw many people come up against.  I was one of those people.  If left for a long time, the friction pulley can become flat on the side.  That doesn't stop the machine but will make it very ....and I mean VERY loud.  Like a helicopter.  Thankfully there is a fix for this.  I got a rental tool and a part from White Sewing Center:

 Elna Parts

  If you are in this predicament, do not give up, try this.  There are many other things for older Elna's there too.

In Summary

There are many sewing machine that are more smooth and quiet.  That said, this beauty is more versatile than most vintage sewing machines.  With the stretch stitch discs it is comparable to most sewing machines made into the 1980's.  It can handle all sorts of modern threads with no problem.  It is not terribly strong, but does very well with garment fabrics from denim to batiste.  Fun to use, simple and not fussy....... and it's green.  What's not to love?

The Improved Eldredge Rotary Sewing Machine

Improved Eldredge Rotary Sewing Machine

Here she is, my first vintage sewing machine.  To place this in time, I bought this in a thrift shop in San Luis Obispo shortly after I got married.  I thought it was a cool little desk.  When trying to get in my car it seemed a bit heavy but no problem I got it home.  It was only when I went through the drawers did I note there was a manual in there and realized it was a sewing machine cabinet.  By golly, there was a sewing machine tucked inside!  How far I have come.

May I introduce you to the Improved Eldredge Rotary.  It is a sewing machine worth noting, as I do see these on occassion so they are still out there.  This model was made in the mid 1930's but I have yet found no confirmation on the actual date.  Eldredge at this point was affiliated with National Sewing Machines, and it bears much similarity.  The decals on this machine has been seen on other makes, notably the Greybar made by Free Westinghouse.  It is very "Art Deco".  Here is a close up of the pillar design again:

Manual, attachment box, one of the hemmers, bobbin case and bobbin.

Love this illustration, a girl with bobbed hair.

This machine came with a full set of attachments, bobbins and manual.  The attachment set are the basic rotary type made by Greist.  They are very high quality and have managed to stay perfect despite being in my damp former home near the ocean on California's Central coast.  If you need a source for bobbins and needles, here is where I get mine.
The bobbins can be ordered online here:  Eldredge Rotary Bobbins
It takes a less common needle, as Nationals do. The size is 20x1 and can be found here:
20x1 Needles
A manual if your machine did not come with one or you cannot find one: 
Improved Eldredge Rotary Manual

The standout feature of this machine and other Eldredge machines I have seen is the beauty of the cabinets.  There are others, and they are all really nice.  This particular one, like the machine itself, also has a Art Deco feel.  Check out these drawer pulls!

Bakelite insert

Using the Eldredge is much like other sewing machines but there are a few little things that are worth mentioning.  The thread path is a bit longer than most and so take care to check to make sure you are doing it right.   Because it has a few extra stops on the way, I always pull the top thread way out before starting a seam.  This machine has slipped it's thread more than any other.  This thread path set up does seem to have an advantage in that the tension is very sensitive.  This makes it able to handle all sorts of thread.  The one I like best is the clear nylon thread used for quilt tops.  It also handles very heavy thread like the yellow jean top stitch thread.  It is also is deceptively strong, it does not look like it would but this one can sew through heavier material quite well.

Stitch samples

 The stitches are adjusted by a sliding knob on the side, another different feature.  It is numbered from 1 to 10.  Number 1 being the longest stitch.  It is really long too, perfect for basting.

The strait stitch presser foot sews a perfect 1/4 inch.  That, combined with large area to the right (harp space) and the ability to handle the nylon thread  makes the Eldredge Rotary a good quilter.  The elegant style makes using it all the better.

Fabric Shopping On Holiday

Inspiring fabrics

I am sure I am not the only one who does this:  Buying fabric while on vacation.  My luggage was stuffed on the way home.  This time I thought I'd share one of my favorite spots to indulge this desire.  In my opinion, there is no better style of print than the Hawaiian style.  I can't get enough of it.  I am not from Hawaii, either.  Love it- love it -love it.  Love it when it's just yardage, love it when it's a shirt, love it vintage, love it as a dress, love it on any age or size of man and especially on a good hula dancer.

If you are interested and find yourself in Hawaii, my recommendation is to seek out a good fabric store, such as Fabric Mart.  Inexpensive fabric is just a bonus it's the selection that is so fun.  They are also online but not going into the shop is like  reading a description of a "Loco Moco" and not ever eating a plate of it.  (FYI: Loco Moco  ).  Make a day of Hawaiian comfort fabric and Hawaiian comfort food.  Fabric Mart in Maui is in Kahului.  Loco Moco is everywhere.

The location of Fabric Mart in Maui

Had to throw this in, on the way back from fabric shopping this was the car next to us....."Howzit brah?"

The "Famous" Buttonhole Worker

I saw one of these and had to get it.  What a contraption.  I use Singer's buttonholer a lot and am familiar with the concept of how those work.  How about this one?  What is different about it?  Does it do a good job?  Is it easy to use?  My search for information came up with nothing.  That means I better figure it out myself and post some information for others who may also have one of these.  Now that I've had it for a while it's time to shed some light on it.

This type of buttonhole maker has been around for a long time, since 1895.  They were marketed by several companies ending with Greist and Singer through the 1950's.  That's when buttonholers with templates came into popular use.  They are still made today for industrial machines by YS Star.   There are still lots of vintage ones out in circulation.  I can see why.  They are a heavy and sturdy accessory.  Nothing dainty about it.

How does it work?
The buttonholer fits over the needle clamp and onto the presser bar.  The one I have is for a low shank sewing machine and is shown on a Singer 201, a flat bed.  There are adjustment screws on the sides for setting the width of the hole opening and the stitch width.   An adjustment screw on the back sets the stitch length and another single screws sets the stitch density.  Like other buttonholers the fabric is moved to make the button hole.   Clickety clack clickety clack!

Making the Buttonholer Work:
1.  Remove Presser foot.  Place the cover plate on the sewing machine bed.  Make sure the needle goes into the small hole strait on.

Cover plate placement.

2. Place the buttonholer hook on the needle clamp at the same time setting it against the presser bar.

Turn wing thumb screw towards you.

3.  Turn the side wing nut towards you, until it gets to the front and left.  That's the beginning of the buttonhole.  ( It will form the buttonhole backwards from there.)

Needle placement

 4.  Stitch as normal, I go kind of fast and keep the fabric taut.

Making Adjustments:
This model is adjusted by screws.
Set the Length of hole.
 To set the length of the buttonhole move the screw at the back.  I have found that it's easier to do this by marking your fabric sample and holding it up to the opening.  Loosen screw and move it down or up to correspond to the marks.  The measurement should include the screw itself.  The buttonhole length will equal the opening (from the top) including the diameter of the screw open space you see.  The maximum is 3/4.  Larger lengths are done in two parts, well described in it's manual so I'll leave it out from here.

 Setting the Cutting Space Width.  The cutting space opening can be adjusted by loosening the screw and moving it.  The "W" is for wider and "N" is for narrow.   Experiment with this with the type of fabric you have. 

Adjusting the cutting space.  It's set for cotton broadcloth now.

Setting the Stitch Width:
The stitch with or "bite" is adjusted much the same as the previous step.  The change is that to make it bigger or wider, move the screw towards " W" for wide and towards "N" to narrow.

Setting the Stitch Density:
The density of the stitches can be adjusted by turning the screw on the side up or down.  This is a very subtle adjustment so turn it down or up a little at a time.  The way it is the photo is perfect for cottons.

Stitch density screw.

The buttonholer requires a lot of adjusting to get it right.  You can't just plop in a cam and have it go.  This makes testing very important.   Here is an example of a few changes that come from changing the stitch width and bite. 

Just as with the Singer buttonholers, I suggest making a sample to keep with your attachment to refer to.   As you can see there is a big difference between widths.    The lengths shown are all the same.The most narrow bite is too small in my opinion.  It snarls every time.

Does it work well?
This is not very easy to use.  I have to be honest, it is more complicated than a template style one.    The wing thumb screw can be hard to turn.  That said it has one feature that is REALLY helpful.  That is the ability to change the cutting space.  There are few things more frustrating that making a buttonhole and having the hole be too small to cut and so threads are shredded.  It can ruin your work, at the final step.  That horror can be avoided with this buttonholer.   For all the time spent in testing, it IS good to be able to adjust for variations in fabric density or type.

Button hole samples

The quality is OK but is improved with a bit of tear away stabilizer underneath.   It works very well with heavier fabrics but has not been tested extensively on silks.   My biggest complaint is that it is hard to make a hole larger than 3/4".  It can be done but not easily - or at least easy for me.  I do think this buttonholer has a  place in your tool box and if you see one, think about getting it.

The one key feature it has is a good one, and that is the ability to customize.  There is a certain inspiring quality as well, to see it in action.  The ingenuity of people is amazing sometimes.  The Famous Buttonholer is is a good example of that!